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New
Heights for Your Garden
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Written by George
Winter and Ellen Brammer |
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If your
landscape is feeling flat and you
are ready for a change, you might
try giving your garden a vertical
lift. The
possibilities are endless - from a
simple, inexpensive trellis to the
all out drama of a vine covered pergola
or a tree-lined alley. With some careful
thought you can reflect your own sense
of style to your vertical garden.
Tools for adding vertical dimension
include statuary, pottery, arbors,
and lattice trellises. Trees, vines,
and perennials can compliment or even
substitute the structural height.
Wrought iron is very popular right
now. There is a wide variety to choose,
from the small and simple obelisk
to full size gazebos.
There are many simple ways to “raise”
some interest in your garden. Invert
an empty pot and place another container
on top, planted with low growing plants
for filler, and some ground cover
that trails down the sides. These
plantings are very eye catching and
can make a great focal point in front
of a shrub that is no longer blooming.
Or take the upward route with a vining
Jasmine on a trellis. For some extra
pizzazz, try growing white, and purple
blooming clematis up the same trellis.
If you already have a fence, bring
the eye up with a rambling rose.
An arbor can make a shady resting
point or it can add subtle direction
to the location you wish to lead the
eye. If the arbor is a focal point,
then experiment with the upright verticals
on both sides. Container gardens can
be very effective in this situation
because plants or entire pots can
be changed with the seasons. Or, the
arbor can take your eye beyond, leading
you to a beautiful fountain, outdoor
room, or any favored spot in your
landscape.
Fountains are an exciting way to bring
height to your garden and a lift to
your spirits. The sound of water should
come in actions such as sprays or
spills. Either a quiet trickle or
a dramatic splash has a way of making
you feel far away from your daily
responsibilities. Your local garden
center should have fountains for any
landscape. Wall fountains, fountainettes,
or bird baths are effective in smaller
gardens.
If you have an existing pond it is
easy to add vertical lift with add
on visual features. Raise your water
garden to eye level with a bubbling
pot or a piece of statuary. Bubble
fountain kits are readily available
at your local garden center and easy
to install. Statuary broadens your
choices from playful turtles, to a
classic angel, or a big-bellied Buddha.
If your garden space is more limited,
a few water pots of different sizes
and shape will also lift the eye.
No matter what you decide just remember,
your garden is an expression of your
artistic side and although it may
be a little work, it should always
be a lot of fun. Enjoy. |
| |
Recommended
Lawn Care Products |
Weed
Control |
| GreenLight
Crab Grass Preventer |
| Pre and early
post-emergent crabgrass preventer.
Kills other broadleaf and grassy
weeds. |
| |
| Master
Nursery Broadleaf DSO Weed Control
Spray |
| Broadleaf DSO
Weed Control Spray contains
trimec and will control over
200 broadleaf weeds including
dandelions, spurge, and oxalis.
It will not harm blade grass
lawns and starts working overnight. |
| |
| Monterey
Crab & Spurge Preventer2 |
| Pre-emergence
herbicide with a 12.7% active
ingredient. Controls such weeds
as crabgrass, foxtails, oxalis,
ryegrass and many more. Can
be used on both warm season
and cool season turf. After
applying Crab & Spurge Preventer,
watering activates activity
in the soil. |
| |
| Monterey
Weed-Hoe |
| Postemergence,
selective grass killer for warm
and cool season turf. Contains
48.3% active ingredient, higher
than most other products on
the market! Controls crabgrass,
goosegrass, dutgrass, Dallisgrass. |
| |
| Monterey
Nutgrass 'Nihilator |
| Controls yellow
Nutgrass in turf and ornamentals.
Kills the nutlet as well as
the top of weed. May be used
on both cool and warm season
turfgrass. Non-staining, economical
control of yellow Nutgrass infestation. |
| |
| Turflon™
Ester |
| Postemergence
herbicide for control of bermudagrass,
kikuyugrass and broadleaf weeds
in cool season grass. Contains
61.6% active ingredient. One
pint covers up to 32,000 sq.
ft. Controls Oxalis, Clover
and other broadleaf weeds. |
| |
| Weed
Whacker Jet Spray |
| Easy to use
aerosol formulation. Controls
spurge, oxalis, dandelion and
other broadleaf weeds. Contains
a foam marker to show areas
that have been sprayed. Excellent
for spot treatment of problem
turf areas. The easy way to
control broadleaf weeds. |
| |
| *Herbicide
Helper (Oil Concentrate) |
A spreader
penetrant to be used with herbicides
to make them work better and
faster
Use with Grass Getter (formerly
Poast®), Nutgrass 'Nihilator
and other herbicides for better
control
Widely used in herbicidal sprays
Available in Pint |
| |
Fertilizers |
Master
Nursery Master Green™
Lawn Food |
| A pelleted
blend lawn food with ammoniacal
and urea nitrogen, phosphorous,
potassium. Produces a rapid
response (usually in 7 days). |
| |
| Master
Nursery Master Green[tm] Weed
& Feed |
| The same fertilizer
as Master Green Lawn Food. Trimec
is added to control 35 broad
leaf weeds. Designed for grass
lawns only. |
| |
| Master
Nursery Formula 49 |
| A mild, organic
based, all purpose fertilizer
for year round use. |
| |
Pest
and Insect Control |
| |
| Bayer
Advanced Season Long Grub Control
|
| Defends against
grubs. Helps turf recover. Apply
anytime spring through summer.
Also kills molecrickets and
European cranefly larvae. |
| |
| Greenlight
Lawn and Garden Spray |
| 100% organic.
Multi-Insect killer and repellant. |
| |
| Greenlight
Spinosad Lawn and Garden |
| Ready to spray.
Controls beatles, worms, fleas,
leafminers, thrips, and spidermites. |
| |
| MoleMax |
| Mole and vole
repellent. Controls moles, gophers,
voles, skunk, and rabbits without
killing. |
| |
| Safer
Insectcidal Soap |
| Controls aphids,
mealy bugs, mites, and whitefly. |
| |
Disease |
Bayer
Advanced Fungus Control for
Lawns |
| Cures and prevents
common lawn disease, such as
brown patch, dollar spot, red
thread and rust. One application
protects up to 2 months. |
| |
| Greenlight
Fung Away Systemic Lawn Fungicide
Spray |
For control
of powdery mildew, leaf blight
spots, rusts and brown patch.
Spectracide Immunox MP Fungicide.
Cures and prevents all major
lawn disease. Once dried, it
can’t be washed off by
rain. |
| |
| Spectracide
Immunox Multi Purpose Fungicide |
| Cures and prevent
all major lawn disease. Once
dried, it can’t be washed
off by rain. |
| |
|
Drought
Tolerant Plants |
Many of the plants
listed below are carried by Wyntour
Gardens.
^ These plants are recommended as
part of a Firesafe Landscape. |
Elements
of Shade Gardening
|
If you don’t want to
be a slave to your garden this summer, a shade
garden could be the answer. When the temperature
rises and the sun beats down hot and heavy,
there is nothing more refreshing than a cool,
moist patch where Ferns thrive along with
Hostas, Impatiens and Astilbe. You can improve
your shade climate and cut back on your work
if you understand the fundamentals of shade
gardening. Though light is an important factor
in shade gardening, there are other elements
you should also consider before you begin.
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| It is important to
understand the different types of shade for
successful plant choices. Light
shade is the brightest shade
and supports the requirements of the most
plants. Light shade areas are the easiest
to design and work with. Light shade is
the dappled shade you will find under a
tree canopy and allows for 4-6 hours of
sunlight, preferably with afternoon shade.
Many sun-loving plants will take light shade
in our area. (See Regional Considerations
below).
Part
shade occurs when you have
a 4-6 hour interruption from direct sun.
Plants that do well in light shade or part
shade include Astilbe, Fox Glove, and Hydrangea.
Full shade is a garden area
that receives no direct sun. Full shade
may be created by a dense, canopy of trees
or by buildings, such as the north side
of your house.
Plants
that do well in full shade include Foam
Flower, Impatiens, and Japanese aucuba.
Just as soon as you get
your microclimates all figured out, the
exposure changes with the seasons. Full
sun in summer changes to medium shade in
spring and fall. Trees grow older and denser,
intensifying the shade they provide. It
is important to remain flexible. Plant bulbs
that will bloom in spring before the trees
leaf out overhead. Light summer pruning
on maturing shade trees will lighten the
garden beneath.
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Regional
Considerations |
| In an area as
hot as Shasta County it is essential to understand
that if a plant requirement calls for part
shade this means it must
have protection from the scorching afternoon
sun. Even plants that normally
take full sun in other areas of California
will need protection from the afternoon sun
here.
Competition
Plants growing beneath a tree in dappled
shade will have to compete with the roots
of the tree for water and nutrients, so
your shade garden might dry out more quickly
than in gardens planted in sunny locations.
The shallower rooted the tree, the more
competition, so adjust your watering appropriately.
Organic material should not be dug into
the soil at the risk of harming the tree’s
surface roots. Organic material in the form
of mulch that blankets the surface of your
garden will help hold moisture, and will
slowly break down to provide nutrients to
your plants. Mulching will also discourage
weeds and give your garden a natural feel,
as leaves drop to mulch the earth in nature
as well.
Plants that can hold their own, amongst
the tree roots include Aster,
Bergenia,
and Redbud.
Wyntour Gardens carries a great line of
Master Nursery
brand Fertilizers that will provide
your shade garden with the extra nutrients
it will need. Master
Nursery Camellia Azalea Gardenia Food 4-8-5
is a premium food for shade and acid loving
plants. Master
Nursery Rose and Flower Food for
plants that need alkaline soil. Our expert
nursery staff can help advise you on the
best products to use in your particular
situation.
Soil
pH
It is a common misconception that all shade
plants like acid soil. It is true that woodland
plants growing under conifers thrive underneath
a blanket of decomposing, acidic leaves.
Forests grow in areas of high rainfall which
washes away nutrients that make the soil
alkaline. In the western states, where the
average rainfall is less than 30 inches
a year, minerals build near the roots of
plants making the soil alkaline. So plants
that evolved in a rainy climate generally
prefer acid soil, and plants that evolved
in a dry climate generally prefer neutral
soil. But you do not have to trace the history
of your plants and your soil to understand
their soil requirements.
Wyntour Gardens carries Rapitest
Soil Test Kits which are a quick
and easy way to determine your soil type.
Then check the labels, a plant dictionary,
or consult our excellent staff to understand
a plant’s requirement before
you buy it. If you don’t want to be
a slave to your garden you could choose
all alkaline loving plants for neutral soils
or plant acid loving plants under established
conifers. As long as the plants won’t
get too big you can annually adjust the
soil around each plant to its pH needs and
have a combination of both acid and alkaline
loving plants. Wyntour Gardens carries EB
Stone pH Adjustor Plus which will
increase acidity to depth of 6 inches. Since
we live in the west, it is unlikely that
you would need to decrease the acidity of
your soil.
Plants that do well in neutral soils include
Hosta,
Lamium,
and Lilyturf.
Here at Wyntour Gardens we have a large
shade area with a great variety of beautiful
shade loving plants. Our knowledgeable staff
can help you choose the correct plants for
your shady microclimates.
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| While
most people think of an in-ground pond when
they think of water gardens, it is quite easy
and fun to create a beautiful water garden
in a container. Containers for water gardens
can be as diverse as one’s imagination
– the only requirement is that the container
holds water. A soup urn, wine barrel, or an
old kitchen sink can make a great container.
With the fast growing popularity of aquatic
gardening you can now find a great selection
of ceramic containers with no drainage holes,
sealed inside and out, specifically designed
for water gardens. These containers come in
a variety of sizes and gorgeous colors that
will make creating your water garden simple
and exciting. When
making your decision on what kind of container
to use there are some factors you should
consider. A small, one gallon container
will hold one special plant. A ten to twenty
gallon container can support a whole ecosystem.
If you would like to add fish, your container
should hold at least ten gallons of water
and be at least twelve inches deep. Some
containers need liners, epoxy, or special
sealers to fill holes, or protect against
chemical reactions, such as a leaching of
tannic acid. You may wish to add a spouting
ornament, or a small waterfall, for the
relaxing effect of running water. A small
submersible pump which would move 60-90
gallons per hour (GPH) would be sufficient
for this feature. Miniature underwater lights
are also available for use with or without
a pump.
Different water plants
have different preferences for planting
depth. Research the needs of the plants
you are using. If your water container is
deep, you may need shelves to bring the
crowns of the plants to the proper level.
Bricks work well, especially cinderblocks
which have hollow cores that will prevent
loss of water volume. You can also use overturned
pots or flat rocks. You may even find floating
pots at specialty nurseries.
Once you have selected
and prepared your container, you should
choose the site before you construct your
garden. Because water weighs eight pounds
per gallon, your garden will be hard to
move once assembled. Do not put the container
garden directly on a deck. Raise your container
up on pot feet or bricks, creating space
under the pot so condensation and leakage
won’t ruin surfaces. Most aquatic
plants need four to six hours of sun each
day. Here in the North Valley, it is best
to provide your garden with afternoon shade
to keep the water from getting too warm
and your plants from burning. You may also
want to choose a spot where it will reflect
a special area of your garden, such as a
blooming plant, or a special piece of statuary.
The plants you choose for
your tub garden will depend on its size
and depth. Large, tall plants can unbalance
a planting both visually and physically.
Floating and submerged plants will do well
in a container, while bog plants may be
overly aggressive. Fifty to sixty percent
of the water surface should be covered with
plant material. Many local garden centers
are now carrying aquatic plants and it is
easier than ever to find the most popular
plants, including water irises, floating
hearts, giant pennywort and horsetail rush.
Water lilies (Nymphaea), both hardy and
tropical, are available in a wide range
of color and sizes. Lotus (Nelumbo) is another
popular floater, prized for its beauty,
fragrance and interesting seed pods. It
is important to use a soil specifically
formulated for aquatic plants, like Schultz
Aquatic Plant Soil™. Do not use standard
potting soil mix meant for ground-loving
plants. If your water supply is treated
with chlorine, let it sit for one to two
days before planting, as the chlorine will
evaporate.
Once your water garden
is planted, keep an eye on the water level
and replace what has evaporated. Control
algae by physically removing it or use a
water clarifier made for aquatic gardens.
Use timed-release fertilizer like Agriform®
Tabs or Osmocote®, following the directions
on the package. Most water plants are evergreen,
and will survive the winter in above freezing
temperatures, though they will become dormant
when the cold weather hits. During the winter,
keep plants cleaned up by removing dead
leaves, in spring they will begin to grow
again. Spring is the time to divide plants
and make new plantings or share them with
friends. There are many books and web-sites
available about water gardening, and you
can also consult your local garden center
or aquatic garden specialist for more information.
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| Peonies
are hardy perennial plants which bloom in
May and June.
Peonies have been cultivated
in gardens since the time of Pliny the Elder,
the Roman naturalist who perished in the
destruction of Pompeii. Peony comes from
the word meaning the god of healing. History
records gardeners growing many varieties
in London as long ago as 1580. In 1824,
Lemoine, a French gardener of scholarly
reputation, made important hybrid crosses
in peonies. In the US, the single white
flowered peony was exhibited by the New
York Horticultural Society in 1826.
There are two basic types
of peonies: herbaceous and tree peonies.
Herbaceous peonies have fleshy clubs of
roots, with leaves and flowers sprouting
out from the crowns. Herbaceous peonies
die back to the ground in the fall. They
are derived from the Siberian and European
forms. Tree peonies are actually shrubs
which produce flowers and leaves on permanent
woody branches growing up to eight feet
tall.
All are extremely long-lived
perennial plants of significant size with
spectacular, large flowers which are great
for cutting. Some are wonderfully fragrant,
with a fragrance similar to old-fashioned
roses. Flower colors include white, cream,
yellows, coral, pinks, purple, rose, reds
(some very deep) and black. Flowers are
singles, semi-doubles & doubles. Support
large flowers with peony rings.
Peonies have a relatively
short bloom period - no one kind blooms
for more than one week. To extend the blooming
period, plant early, mid-season and late
flowering cultivars. Peonies can withstand
full sun and summer heat, though light shade
will prolong the flowering period in hot
areas.
Herbaceous peonies can be
planted in early spring or in fall. Peonies
need winter chill for good springtime bloom.
Plant on a northern slope & do not mulch
in winter. Peonies are able to withstand
summer heat, but the flowers dont
last well in warm springtime weather.
Choose early blooming varieties, provide
some afternoon shade & adequate water.
Peonies require site preparation,
but will return with outstandingly beautiful
flowers for a lifetime. They need deep,
rich soil with good drainage - the roots
will quickly rot in poorly drained soil.
Consider planting peonies
in raised beds. Ideally, the site should
be deeply dug (12-20 inches). Work in lots
of well-rotted manure or compost & high-phosphorus
fertilizer.
Allow the soil to settle before planting.
Give each peony three feet of space. Peonies
prefer slightly alkaline soil - pH 6.0 to
7.0. Add lime to excessively acid soil.
Peonies do best when planted
in Fall for Spring bloom. Avoid planting
in a border facing east, as the flower buds
may be damaged by the early morning sun,
if it happens to shine on them after a frosty
night. Borders facing south, southwest or
west are best.
Peonies have fleshy roots suggesting long
sweet potatoes joined together at one end.
Soak roots in water just prior to planting,
to give them a good drink. Set roots carefully
as planting too deep prevents flowering.
Plant with rose-colored eyes facing up,
two inches deep in colder climates, one
inch deep in warmer regions.
Mulch is helpful in hot
regions. Be sure to allow for depth of mulch
when planting.
Fertilize the plants with Master Nursery
brand Multi Purpose Fertilizer (16-16-16),
or any multi-purpose fertilizer, after the
flowering period. Peonies are unlikely to
bloom the first year, but should bloom annually
after that. They can be left undisturbed
for many years, and will bloom satisfactorily
for 20 years or more.
There is usually no need
to divide herbaceous peonies, except to
increase stock. Dig the clumps in early
fall and hose off any soil. Divide into
sections using a sharp knife, making sure
each section has three to five eyes. Plant
immediately so plants have time to put down
roots before freezing weather. Herbaceous
peonies may take 1-2 years to establish
before blooming.
For cut flowers, cut just
as buds begin to open. Leave at least three
leaves on each stem, preserving leaf growth
to nourish the plant for the following year.
Remove less than half the blossoms from
any clump. Deadhead to prevent seed formation.
Remove seed pods if they develop.
Peonies can develop the
fungal disease botrytis, especially if weather
is cool and humid.
Young buds will blacken and wither, fuzzy
brown spots develop on the flowers and leaves,
and the stems wilt and collapse. Botrytis
can be prevented by taking the following
measures:
-
Provide good air circulation
- Dispose of diseased portions
of plant and fallen leaves immediately
- Cut stems back to soil
level in fall
- Spray with copper fungicide
in spring, as new growth emerges |
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| The
American Peony Society publishes the following
tips for reasons why peonies do not bloom: |
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Plants too young. |
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Planted
too deep. Eyes should be no more than
2-3 inches below soil surface. |
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Large clumps planted without first
being divided. |
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Buds
killed by late frost or waterlogged
from constant rain. |
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Buds
killed by disease or attacked by thrips.
Use an appropriate spray. |
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Roots
diseased. Destroy plants. |
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Plants
undernourished. Use a high-phosphate
fertilizer such as 5-10-5. |
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Ground
too dry. Water thoroughly. |
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Excessive
hot weather. Late-blooming full doubles
are especially susceptible. |
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Planted
too close to trees and shrubs, or
crowded by other plants. |
| |
Too
much shade, making plants tall and
leafy. |
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Plants
undermined by gophers or moles. |
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SHADE
TREES FOR SHASTA COUNTY |
|
Things to Consider
When Selecting Shade Trees:
|
| |
What
is the ultimate size tree you would
like. |
| |
What
are the growth specifications of the
trees you are considering?
a. Is the
location near foundation, driveway,
sidewalk septic leach fields, etc.?
b. Does the
tree have a shallow or deep root structure?
|
| |
Larger,
established trees (30 gal or larger)
will fill out the fastest. |
| |
Trees
with the largest leaves will give
the heaviest shade. |
| |
Some
trees, like maple, fruitless mulberry
and gingko lose all their leaves at
once making clean up easier.
|
| |
Moderately
growing trees generally have deeper
root systems than fast growing trees.
|
| |
|
|
| Fast
Growing Trees |
| Will
grow to 35 - 70 feet tall: |
|
| Deciduous |
|
| Acer
saccharinum |
Celebration
Maple |
| |
Silver
Maple |
| Catalpa
speciosa |
Catalpa |
| Pawlonia
|
Empress
Tree |
| Celtis
occidentalis |
Common
Hackberry |
| Celtis
sinensis |
Chinese
Hackberry |
| Liquidambar
|
Liquid
Ambar, Sweet Gum |
| Liriodendron
tulipifera |
Tulip
Tree |
| Morus
alba Stribling |
Fruitless
Mulberry |
| Nyssa
sylvatica |
Sour
Gum, Black Tupelo |
| Platanus
acerifolia |
Sycamore,
London Plane Tree |
| Robinia
x ambigua |
Purple
Robe Locust |
| Salix
babylonica |
Weeping Willow |
| |
|
|
| Evergreen |
|
| Cedrus deodara
|
Deodar Cedar |
| Sequoia sempervirens
|
Redwood |
| Thuja Green
Giant |
Western Red Cedar
Green Giant |
| |
|
|
| Will
grow to 20 - 35 feet tall: |
|
| Acer
tataricum ginnala |
Amur Maple |
| x Chitalpa
tashkentensis Pink Dawn
|
Chitalpa Pink Dawn |
| Chilopsis
linearis Burgundy |
Desert Willow Burgundy |
| Chionanthus
retusus |
Chinese Fringe Tree |
| Fraxinus
americana |
Autumn Purple Ash |
| Fraxinus
oxycarpa |
Raywood Ash |
| Pyrus
callyreana |
Flowering Pear, Aristocrat
Flowering Pear |
| Prunus
cerasifera |
Flowering Plum |
| |
|
| |
|
|
| Moderate
Growing Shade Trees
|
| Acer buergeranum |
Trident Maple |
| Acer x freemanii Autumn
Fantasy |
Autumn Fantasy Maple |
| Acer x freemanii Jeffers
red |
Autumn Blaze Maple |
| Acer rubrum Autumn
Flame |
Autumn Flame Maple |
| Acer rubrum October
Glory |
October Glory Maple |
| Acer rubrum Red
Sunset |
Red Sunset Maple |
| Arbutus unedo |
Strawberry Tree |
| |
|
|
|
NOTE: Most trees in the
Acer family will grow to 50+ feet tall, with a shallow,
aggressive root system.
|
|
| Deciduous |
|
| Gingko biloba
|
Gingko, Maidenhair |
| Magnolia
grandiflora |
Southern
Magnolia |
| Magnolia
x soulangeana |
Saucer Magnolia |
| |
|
|
| Evergreen |
|
| Cedrus atlantica
|
Atlas Cedar |
| Cedrus libani
|
Cedar of
Lebanon |
| Laurus nobilis
|
Sweet Bay,
Grecian Laurel |
| Laurus nobilis
Saratoga |
Sweet Bay
Saratoga |
|
| Acer buergeranum |
Trident
Maple |
| Acer x freemanii
|
Autumn Blaze
Maple |
| Acer palmatum
|
Japanese
Maple |
| Acer platanoides
|
Norway Maple |
| Acer saccharinum
|
Silver Maple
& Cutleaf Silver |
| Acer saccharum
|
Sugar Maple |
| Acer tataricum
ginnala |
Amur Maple |
| Ailanthus
altissima |
Tree of Heaven |
| Albizia julibrissin
|
Mimosa |
| Alnus cordata
|
Italian Alder |
| Alnus rhombifolia
|
White Alder
(shallow to medium, aggressive) |
| Betula pendula
|
European
White Birch (aggressive feeder roots) |
| Catalpa speciosa
|
Catalpa |
| Cinnomomum
camphora |
Camphor
Tree (shallow to medium - aggressive |
| Eucalyptus
camaldulensis |
Red Gum
(aggressive) |
| Eucalyptus
sideroxylon |
Red Ironbark |
| Fraxinus
Americana |
Autumn Purple
Ash |
| Fraxinus
latifolia |
Oregon Ash |
| Fraxinus
oxycarpa |
Raywood Ash |
| Fraxinus
velutina |
Modesto Ash
(shallow & aggressive) |
| Gleditsia
triacanthos |
Sunburst
Honey locust (relatively shallow) |
| Lagerstroemia
indica |
Crape Myrtle |
| Ligustrum
lucidum |
Glossy Privet |
| Liquidambar
|
Liquid Amber |
| Liriodendron
tulipifera |
Tulip Tree
(shallow to medium) |
| Magnolia
stellata |
Star Magnolia
(shallow to medium) |
| Morus alba
Stribling |
Fruitless
Mulberry |
| Pinus radiata
|
Monterey
Pine (shallow to medium) |
| Pinus sabiana
|
Digger, Gray
or Foothill Pine |
| Populus fremonti
|
Fremont Cottonwood
(very shallow, aggressive, short |
| Populus nigra
|
Lombardy
Poplar |
| Robinia x
ambigua |
Purple Robe
Locust (aggressive) |
| Robinia pseudoacacia
|
Black Locust |
| Salix babylonica
|
Weeping Willow
(aggressive) |
| Sapium sebiferum
|
Chinese
Tallow |
| Tilia cordata |
Little-Leaf Linden |
| Ulmus allata |
Wahoo Winged Elm (aggressive) |
| Ulmus americana |
American Elm (aggressive) |
| Ulmus parvifolia |
Chinese Elm |
| Ulmus pumila |
Siberian Elm |
| Zelkova serrata
|
Sawleaf Zelkova
(medium, shallow) |
| |
|
|
|
|
| Arbutus unedo |
Strawberry Tree |
| Cedrus deodora
|
Deodar Cedar (medium
to deep) |
| Celtis australis
|
European Hackberry
(shallow to medium) |
| Celtis occidentalis
|
Hackberry |
| Cornus florida
|
Dogwood |
| Crataegus laevigata
|
English Hawthorne |
| Cupressus arizonica
|
Arizona Cypress
(medium to deep) |
| Eucalyptus polyanthemos
|
Silver Dollar (medium
to deep, aggressive feeder |
| Ginkgo biloba |
Maidenhair Tree |
| Grevillea robusta
|
Silk Oak (shallow
to medium) |
| Juglans hindsii
|
Black Walnut (medium
to deep) |
| Juglans regia |
English Walnut
(medium to deep) |
| Koelreuteria paniculata
|
Goldenrain Tree
(medium to deep) |
| Laurus nobilis
|
Sweet Bay (medium
to deep) |
| Magnolia grandiflora
|
Magnolia |
| Malua toringoides
|
Crabapple |
| Malus zuni |
Radiant
Crabapple |
| Maytenus boaria
|
Mayten Tree |
| Metasequoia glyptostroboides
|
Dawn Redwood |
| Nyssa sylvatica
|
Sour Gum, Tupelo
or Pepperidge |
| Pinus thunbergiana
|
Japanese Black
Pine |
| Pistachia chinesis
|
Chinese Pistache
(deep, moderate) |
| Platanus acerifolia
|
Sycamore, London
Plane Tree |
| Prunus cerasifera
|
Flowering Plum,
Purple Leaf Plum |
| Prunus dulcis |
Almond |
| Prunus lyonii |
Catalina Cherry
(medium to deep) |
| Pseudotsuga menziesii
|
Douglas Fir (medium
to deep) |
| Pyrus callyreana
|
Flowering Pear |
| Pyrus kawakamii
|
Evergreen Pear |
| Quercus palustris
|
Pin Oak |
| Sophora japonica
|
Japanese Pagoda/Chinese
Scholar |
| Tilia americana
|
American Linden
(small to medium) |
| |
|
| |
|
|
|
| Calocedrus decurrens
|
Incense Cedar |
| Chamaecyparis lawsoniana
|
Port Oxford Cedar |
| Carya illinoiensis
|
Pecan |
| Celtis sinensis
|
Chinese Hackberry |
| Cercis canadensis
|
Eastern Redbud |
| Cryptomeria japonica
|
Japanese Cedar |
| Malus sylvestris
|
Domestic Apple
(moderate to deep) |
| Melia azedarach
Umbraculifera |
Texas Umbrella |
| Nyssa sylvatica
|
Sour Gum, Tupelo |
| Pinus canariensis
|
Canary Island Pine
(med to deep) |
| Pinus pinea |
Italian Stone
Pine (med to deep) |
| Pinus ponderosa
|
Ponderosa Pine
(deep) |
| Pinus wallichiana
|
Himalayan White
Pine |
| Punica granatum
|
Pomegranate (moderately
deep) |
| Quercus coccinea
|
Scarlet Oak |
| Quercus douglasii
|
Blue Oak |
| Quercus lobata
|
Valley Oak |
| Quercus x morehus
|
Oracle Oak (aggressive) |
| Quercus rubra |
Red Oak |
| Quercus wislizenii
|
Interior Live
Oak |
| Sequoia
sempervirens |
Coast
Redwood (10 deep but considered shallow
for size of tree - good for hedges, privacy) |
| Sequoiadendron
giganteum |
Interior Redwood |
| |
|
| |
|
|
| |
| |
During a sweltering August weekend,
sixteen good-natured folks participated in Wyntour
Gardens first Hands-on Pond Building Workshop.
Led by Brion and Pat Sincaglia of Shadow
Valley Aquatic Plant Nursery, the two-day
class covered the basics of pond building, site
location and shape design, setting the BioFalls,
pump and skimmer, creating a waterfall, landscaping,
planting and maintenance.
Our enthusiastic students were anxious
to begin digging in the mud, and they got their
chance - by the end of Saturday, the kidney shaped
pond was several feet deep, with multi-leveled ledges
around the perimeter for setting plants, and the
pond liner was installed. On Sunday, rocks were
laid around the edges, the waterfall was created,
and plants were added. There was an audible sigh
of satisfaction from the crowd when the pump was
turned on and water began flowing over the rocks.
Workshop participants included: Joanne Akman; Mr.
and Mrs. John Benkosky; Ted Bowen; Landon Carvalho;
Doug Caskey; Helene Coffman; Tom and Esther Cox;
Deb Devall; Debra De Witt; Gary and Kim Eiler; Bev
Fuller; Robert Miller; Kathy Morrissey; Kerri Smith;
Ron and Kathy Stillmunkes; Vicki and Pat Talladino;
and Laura Walker.
We are extremely grateful to all workshop participants
for their help. The new pond is located on the north
side of the building, in the water plant area of
the nursery. Please take a look the next time you
are here.
More pond and water garden classes are in the works
for Spring 2004. Watch our website for information
or ask for details the next time you are at the
nursery. |
| |
|
| |
| During the hot, dry Redding
summers, the danger of fire and the damage it can
wreak become a constant threat. Intelligent planning
and planting can help reduce fire hazard around
ones property. The
plants surrounding a structure can actually have
an influence in determining a buildings
change of survival during a fire. A firescape
or fire resistant landscape is created by selecting
plants which are less likely to burn and locating
them wisely. All plants will burn if there is
enough heat, yet there are many plants which are
suitable for reducing fire hazard.
Fire-retardant plants are not
apt to burst into flames, and should be planted
near buildings. They typically have fleshy, moist
leaves, and the trees and shrubs are usually deciduous.
Fire-retardant plants tend to be fairly dependent
for water and nutrients and demand some maintenance.
Fire-resistant plants will slow
and incoming fire because they are less likely
to burn than other plants, and if they do burn,
they dont hold the fire very long. They
should be planted farther out from the structure
than the fire-retardant varieties. Some fire-resistant
plants actually survive and re-sprout after a
fire, helping to mitigate erosion problems. As
a group, fire-resistant plants require little
maintenance.
Plants with one or more of the following characteristics
are better able than others to resist or even
retard fire. |
| |
Deciduous
leaves |
| |
Broad
leaves |
| |
Moist,
bendable leaves |
| |
Thick
leaves |
| |
Thin,
runny sap |
| |
Non-fragrant
leaves |
| |
Non-hairy
leaves |
| |
Silver
or gray leaves (unfortunately, native, fragrant |
| |
sages
do not conform to this rule, and are highly |
| |
ignitable.
|
|
|
| |
| Plant trees with
their mature size in mind, locating them so that
their foliage will not be within 10 feet of any
wall. Keep existing trees pruned and trim any
branches that overhang your roof.
Annual pruning and thinning of trees and shrubs,
as well as the clean up of any plant litter or
debris is as important as the specific plants
selected for your landscape. Locate tall shrubs
the furthest from buildings. Supports for vines
should be built of masonry, wrought iron, chain
link or oversized lumber to minimize flammability.
|
|
Agave
- Champion of Fire Resistant Plants |
| Agave (Century Plant) is
favored for its fire and drought resistance. Its
fleshy blue-green strap-shaped leaves hold water and can
actually help protect your home in the event of a fire.
The sharply pointed leaves have hooked spines along the
margins and can act as a safety guardian, discouraging
intruders from crossing its path.
A succulent plant native to dry desert regions, agave
is hardy in the Redding region. It is best to plant
agave in containers, so it can be brought
into a protected location during the winter.
Agave flower clusters are large but not colorful,
and may not occur for 10 years or more. The flower stalk
can reach 15 - 40 feet tall bearing yellowing, green
flowers. After flowering, the foliage clump dies, usually
leaving behind suckers that make new plants.
Agave grows to be very large and its
spines make it formidable to remove. It is important
to be sure you really want a Century Plant before
planting one.
The following is a listing of recommended fire-resistant
plants currently available at Wyntour Gardens Nursery.
|
TREES
Cercis occidentalis (Western Redbud)
Citrus spp. (Citrus)
Populus spp. and cvs. (Poplars)
Rhus spp. and cvs. (Sumacs) SHRUBS
Aloe spp. (Aloe)
Agave (Century Plant)
Aquilegia (Columbine)
Arbutus unedo (Strawberry Tree)
Arctostaphylos spp. (Manzanita)
Arctostaphylos uva-ursi (Bearberry)
Callistemon citrinus (Lemon Bottlebrush)
Cistus ladanifer (Crimson-Spot Rockrose)
Cotoneaster (Cotoneaster)
Escallonia spp. (Escallonia)
Feijoa sellowiana (Pineapple Guava)
Gaultheria procumbens (Wintergreen)
Gaultheria shallon (Salal)
Hemerocallis (Daylilies)
Heteromeles arbutifolia (Toyon, California Holly)
Ligustrum japonicum Texanum (Japanese Privet)
Nerium oleander (Oleander)
Phormium tenax (dwarf varieties) (New Zealand Flax)
Pittosporum spp. (Pittosporum)
Prunus caroliniana (Carolina Laurel Cherry)
Prunus lyonii (Catalina Cherry)
Punica granatum (Pomegranate)
Pyracantha spp. (Firethorn)
Rhamnus alaternus (Italian Buckthorn)
Rhamnus californica (Coffeeberry)
Trachelospermum jasminoides (Star Jasmine)
Vaccinium spp. and cvs. (Blueberries and Huckleberries)
Viburnum spp. and cvs. (Viburnum)
GROUNDCOVERS
Achillea spp. and cvs. (Yarrow)
Ajuga reptans (Carpet Bugle)
Bergenia spp. (Bergenia)
Ceanothus griseus horizontalis (Wild Lilac Carmel Creeper)
Cerastium tomentosum (Snow-in-Summer)
Cotoneaster dammeri (Bearberry Cotoneaster)
Drosanthemum floribundum (Rosea Ice Plant)
Hedera spp. (Ivy)
Helianthemum nummularium (Sunrose)
Iberis sempervirens (Evergreen Candytuft)
Lantana montevidensis (Lantana)
Myoporum parvifolium (Myoporum)
Oenothera beriandien (Evening Primrose, Sundrops)
Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary)
Scaevola Mauve Clusters (Scaevola)
Sedum spp. (Stonecrop)
Vinca minor spp. and cvs. (Periwinkle)
VINES
Campsis radicans (Common Trumpet Creeper)
Jasminum spp. (Jasmine)
Lonicera halliana (Honeysuckle)
Solanum jasminoides (Potato Vine)
Wisteria spp. and cvs. (Wisteria) |
| |
Fall
|
| |
‘Tis
the Season to be Planting
|
| Here in the North
State, gardeners often refer to Fall as the “Second
Spring.” It is an excellent time for planting
trees, shrubs and perennials, as the still mild
weather gives plants the opportunity to establish
roots and become acclimated while the soil is still
warm. Mild Redding winters allow root systems to
continue to grow during the winter months. Long-awaited
rains alleviate the need for constant watering,
though it’s still important to keep things
watered during heat spells.
Most trees and shrubs can be planted now, and
many varieties are known for their breathtaking
fall color. Ginkgo
biloba (Maidenhair Tree) is a hardy tree with
leaves that turn a bright gold in the fall. The
leaves of Nyssa sylvatica (Sour Gum) turn coppery
red, and its, red-tinged bark makes a dramatic
picture against the winter sky. Quercus coccinea
(Scarlet Oak) is a moderately fast growing deciduous
tree whose leaves also turn a bright scarlet with
the onset of colder autumn nights. All Maples
(Acer varieties) will take on color as well. Among
the countless varieties of shrubs, Nandina domestica
(Heavenly Bamboo), Coleonema (Breath of Heaven),
Cotoneaster and Spirea are excellent choices for
fall color.
Fall is also an excellent time to plant perennials.
They are easy to plant, require little care during
the winter, and are good filler for bare patches
in the landscape. When spring arrives, you will
have a jump on garden tasks, as some of the work
will already be done. Some species which over-winter
well in the North State are: Aster frikartii ‘Monch’,
Erigeron karviskianus (Santa Barbara daisy), Lavender,
Penstemon (P. gloxinoides), and Scabiosa ‘Butterfly
Blue’ and ‘Pink Mist’.
Calendula is perhaps the showiest winter flower.
Other good flowers to plant now for winter color
include Iceland poppies, pansies, violas, and
primrose. If planted now, these early bloomers
will be larger, better established and produce
more flowers than similar flowers planted in spring.
Fall is also the time to plant spring flowering
bulbs, like tulips, iris, daffodils and crocus’.
Filling hillsides and open areas in the garden
with bulbs will result in gorgeous displays of
cheery, bright flowers in early spring. Use lots
of bulb fertilizer and compost for best results.
Cover bulb beds with fall & winter flowers,
or plant the beds with a hardy evergreen perennial
ground cover like verbena or thyme.
Scatter wildflower seeds now, as nature would.
Use seed you have collected or purchased from
a reputable seed company. Keep seeds watered during
dry spells, especially if seeds have sprouted.
You should be rewarded with beds of exotic blooms
in spring.
If you find yourself with a collection of plants
in nursery containers that never quite got into
the ground this summer, plant them now –
they will have an easier time in the ground than
in the pots over the winter. Fall is also a great
time to put in a new lawn or refurbish an existing
one.
Its best to wait until spring to plant tropical
plants, citrus and other frost sensitive plants,
such as fuchsia and bougainvillea. Protect these
with frost cloth, by building a frame around the
plant and draping the material around the frame.
Avoid touching the leaves with the cloth. Wrapping
twinkly lights around the trunks of the plants
will raise the temperature a few degrees, perhaps
enough to ward off frost damage, besides being
very decorative. Also consider keeping frost sensitive
plants in containers on wheels, so they can be
moved inside when temperatures plummet and frost
threatens.
General fall clean-up is as much a part of the
yearly gardening cycle as tilling the soil and
planting seeds. Harvest as much produce as possible,
collect fallen vegetables, remove spent plants
and clean up under your plants. Make sure the
harvest is finished on fruit trees. Clear off
fruit that has not been harvested and collect
what has fallen on the ground.
Pull up weeds before they set seed. Don’t
put seedy weeds or diseased vegetables, fruit
or plant clippings into your compost pile. Rake
leaves weekly - don’t let them collect,
as they can cause fungal problems in spring.
Fall is an excellent time to have soil testing
done, to be sure of the nutrient composition of
your soil. MONARCH LABS in Chico does thorough
soil testing, and can be reached at: (530) 343-5818.
It is also a good time to correct any deficiencies
noted in the soil. Add soil sulfur to correct
alkalinity and oyster-shell lime to correct acidic
soil.
Think about care and feeding of native wildlife
over the winter by planting locally native plants
for birds and small animals. Also choose shrubs
that bear fruit and berries. Provide a source
of water. A pond with a shallow side or a birdbath
will offer water for drinking and bathing. Frogs
and toads eat a wide variety of insect pests &
will take up residence in or near a ground-level
water feature.
During the slow winter months, study the microclimates
in your yard. Which areas collect frost? Which
areas dry out quickly? Which are the wettest?
Which are the most/least sheltered. Draw maps,
make notes of the successes and not-so-successful
things from the past year, plan for the coming
year, and begin dreaming with seed catalogs and
magazine ideas.
|
|
Secrets
of a Winter Vegetable Garden
|
Fresh garden produce unquestionably
tastes better and is higher in vitamins than grocery store
produce. This is especially true during the winter, because
store-bought produce is mostly grown far away in warmer
climates. The selection becomes more limited and the prices
higher during the winter months, and sometimes shopping
for produce during the doldrums of winter can be down-right
depressing.
If you’ve never grown vegetables during the winter,
now is the perfect time to start. The Mediterranean climate
of our area is perfect for year-round vegetable gardening,
and by using a
few special techniques and the correct selection of crops,
one can easily have year-round harvests at home. Cool
weather crops are hardy and many will survive temperatures
below freezing, others down to 30 degrees.
Winter vegetable gardening is easy, especially compared
to the summer vegetable garden. There are fewer insects.
There will be little watering, and less weeding. You can
let the weather do the work for you this winter instead
of fighting the arid heat. Give your winter vegetables
extra space when you plant them so the air circulation
can help prevent rot. You don’t need to fertilize
the winter garden - in fact it is better not to. High
levels of nitrogen will bring on a new flush of growth,
which will be more susceptible to frost. Fertilize in
the spring to replace depleted nitrogen.
Location is key to a successful winter garden. Choose
a warm location, one that does not frost early. Frost
pockets form in low-lying areas, so locate your vegetable
garden in the highest point in your yard. You will want
good drainage for the rain water. Amend your soil with
gypsum or Soil Buster to help with poor
drainage.
A blanket
of mulch will keep the ground insulated, and even out
swings in soil temperature. Mulch prevents soil from compression
of winter rains. It will also help keep the mud off the
plants and reduce winter weeds. Mulch, such as Mirana
Natural Cocoa Mulch, is easy to spread, light
to handle and environmentally friendly. Master Nursery
offers a Forest Bark and Shredded
Red Cedar Bark mulch as well.
Easy access to your garden is important, as winters are
muddy. Use a layer of straw to line the paths between
your plants. Not only does the straw provide a non-muddy
walkway, but also helps with weed prevention. In spring,
you can simply cultivate the straw in with your soil,
to be ready for another growing season.
Winter favorites include cole crops such as cabbage, broccoli,
cauliflower, kohlrabi and brussels sprouts. These can
be started by seed in August or purchased as seedlings
in a nursery throughout the fall/winter season. These
crops need cool weather for their heads to form.
Spinach is best grown in cool weather, as it bolts in
the heat. Spinach will re-grow as you cut it, but if you
want to harvest it all winter make several sowings
throughout the season. There are many varieties of lettuce
which thrive in cool weather. Red leaf lettuce is especially
beautiful, with crinkly leaves and splashes of red. At
our nurseries, the six-packs of assorted lettuce varieties
are especially popular. There are other delicious greens
for your salad, such as mesclun mixes and arugula, which
add unusual flavors, textures and colors.
Here at Wyntour Gardens we carry a wide variety of cool-crop
vegetable and herb seedlings and specialized tomatoes
that will set fruit at lower temperatures, to help make
winter gardening even more exciting. Choose varieties
that are adaptive to chilly temperatures and shorter daylight
hours such as the tomato variety, Siberia. If you start
from seed, plant between July and September. Seedlings
should be planted as soon as they become available.
Other great and hardy winter green include kale and Swiss
Chard. Beets and turnips will overwinter, plus provide
greens for steaming. Successive plantings of carrots are
highly recommended. And don’t forget the onions,
garlic, and peas. (For more information about planting
onions, please read Sherry
Rosen’s Staff Pick.)
If space is limited, try a “Completely Edible Salad
Bowl”. Choose a container with a fairly wide top
(it doesn’t need to be very deep), and plant your
favorite varieties of lettuce, chives, parsley, peas,
and Swiss Chard. Be sure to include some edible flowers
like calendula, nasturtiums, and pansies. Keep in a convenient,
sunny location near the kitchen door is best, and you
can harvest fresh salad for many months.
With so many great vegetables to choose from, there’s
no reason not to grow winter vegetables. And when the
artichokes, asparagus, rhubarb, strawberries and potatoes
arrive at your Garden Center, it’s a sign that spring
is not too far behind. |
The
Emotional Benefits of Plants
|
The end of daylight savings
time starts the countdown: Halloween, The Day of the Dead,
Thanksgiving, the Winter Solstice, Hanukah, Christmas-
whew, no wonder we’re a wreck by the New Year. With
all the shopping, cooking, visiting, and cleaning, we
barely have time to find the magic of the season, much
less garden.
Looking for a way to take the stress out of your holidays?
Or maybe you have a Grinch in your life. Learn how plants
can reduce stress, help with depression and soothe the
savage shopper. Scientists are now discovering what we
gardeners know instinctively - Flowers trigger happy emotions,
help us feel satisfied and have a positive effect on social
behavior.
* Published scientific studies are showing that flowers
have an immediate impact on happiness and a long-term
positive effect on our moods, helping us with depression,
anxiety and agitation.
* Senior citizens who receive a gift of flowers not
only feel less depressed, but score higher on memory
tests.
* The presence of flowers leads to more contact with
family and friends.
* Studies of inner cities have shown that residents
with trees and green spaces in common areas socialize
more often and feel a strong sense of community.
* Employees that have a view of nature from their desk
are more satisfied and healthy than their windowless
counterparts, who had a 23 % higher rate of feeling
ill.
* Workers with flowers and plants in their workspace
have improved creative and problem solving skills, up
to 15%.
Here are some good reasons to expose children to gardening:
* Research has shown that contact with green, natural
settings relieves symptoms of Attention Deficit Disorder.
* Inner city girls with a view of nature from their
home score higher on tests of self-discipline.
* Outdoor green spaces foster creative play and child-adult
interaction.
* Children reap the same benefits as adults from flowers
and plants: reduced stress and lowered aggression.
Here at Wyntour Gardens we offer a variety of ways
to help you give the gift of emotional health. Our Colorful
Container Gardens, Completely Edible Salad Bowls and
our serene Bonsai are gorgeous plants for home and gift
giving. Or, make some time for your own happiness by
taking advantage of our easy new gift card. If you have
the wintertime blues sign up for one of our fun and
informative hands-on workshops. Check our Events
Calendar for listings of upcoming classes.
To learn more about these studies check out these links.
The Emotional Impact of Flowers, Jeanette Haviland-Jones,
Rutgers University
http://human-nature.com/ep/articles/ep03104132.html
The Human Environment Research Laboratory
www.herl.uiuc.edu
Kathleen Wolf’s research on human dimensions
of urban forestry.
http://www.cfr.washington.edu/research.envmind/
www.plantsatwork.org
|
Army
Worms - A Creepy Story
-or-
How Do I Fix My Lawn?
|
They came in the dark of
a warm summer night, attacking defenseless lawns all over
Shasta County. While we slept, unaware, stealth moths
deposited clusters of eggs in our blue grass, fescue,
and rye. Out of the mild humidity, an army was born, several
hundred worms per egg cluster. It was only a matter of
days before they had chewed and cut each lawn to the root.
They swarmed on people’s decks, and even into homes.
They were coming back in hordes, faster than people could
sweep them away. Then, like an army in formation, heading
into battle, they marched onto the next yard.
One day our lawns were beautiful, the next, one small
irregular spot. By day three there was total decimation.
We were helpless to do anything but water judiciously
and hope our lawns would come back.
Early fall and spring are a time of recovery for our
worm ravaged neighborhoods. Lawns damaged by insects
may have to be renovated or completely re-sown, to correct
the problem. If you have a few patches of dead lawn,
renovation will probably be enough. Here are the steps
to take to
Do not use a pre-emergent prior to sowing your seeds,
as this will adversely affect the germination of new
lawn seed. Systemic weed killers with Glyphosate such
as Monterey
brand Remuda
can be used up to seven days before planting.
* If you have not de-thatched the problem areas of
your lawn, do it now. Water and pesticides have a hard
time penetrating the thatch layer and thus, pests find
protection. Aeration will remove a thin or medium thatch
layer. It may take a thatching rake or vertical mower
to remove thicker thatches.
* Once the thatch is removed, mow the turf to about
¾ of an inch high.
* Remove sod over any high or low spots so your lawn
is level.
* If your turf is patchy and thin after raking, over-seed
the lawn at half the recommended rate for establishment.
Prepare bare spots by turning the soil, leaving a loose
one inch layer for the new roots to take hold. Remember
to keep seed bed consistently moist to ensure germination.
Spread seed evenly. Scotts Easy Hand-Held Spreader
is inexpensive and easy to use. Your lawn will grow
from remaining stems and crowns in addition to the new
grass seed. If your lawn has more than a few brown patches
and has not recovered, you may need to completely re-seed
it.
* Decide which kind of lawn is best for your area conditions.
Here at Wyntour Gardens we have four types of bulk lawn
seed. Annual
Rye is a tough lawn that will take traffic
and stay hardy, though it does go dormant and turn brown
in the winter. California
Green is very hardy; it is the Old Shasta
mix that the feed stores used to sell.
Royal Turf has softer, finer,
blades but it won’t hold up to kids and dogs.
Sun and Shade
is sturdier and will take some shade.
* Preparation is the key for starting a successful
lawn. Don’t just scrape the ground, break up the
compacted soil. If it is a large area use a tiller.
Rototillers can be rented from your local rental center.
Now is a great time to add gypsum, such as Soilbuster,
which will help break up clay, provide primary nutrients
and improve soil drainage. Spread Master Nursery
brand, Master Start Fertilizer, then
till again, mixing the amendments into the soil.
* Rake the soil to begin to level it out, removing
any rocks and debris that you find. To avoid problems
with excess water-runoff, make sure that any grading
you do allows water to flow away from your house.
* Finish leveling the soil by using a roller filled
with water. Like tillers, rollers can be rented from
a local rental center. Here at our nursery, we loan
out seeding rollers and water filled rollers to our
customers. Water the soil lightly after leveling.
* Following the recommended seeding rate, spread 1/4
of the seed over the entire lawn area. Then repeat times,
each time using 1/4 of the seed. However, each of the
4 times you distribute a load of seed, push the spreader
in a different direction, to encourage even dispersal.
* Rake lightly, so as to cover the seed with a thin
layer of soil. Master
Nursery brand Paydirt,
a multi-purpose soil conditioner, makes a great top
dressing, as it is heavy enough to keep the seed from
blowing away.
* The seeds must be watered properly, in order to germinate.
Use just a fine spray, as you don't want to create a
flood! The soil should be kept evenly moist, which means
you must water several times per day (depending on the
weather). After the grass blades sprout, you'll still
need to water a couple of times per day. If you know
your schedule won't permit this, now is the time to
look into automatic irrigation systems before
starting a new lawn.
Remember as you maintain your lawn that pesticides
kill both destructive and beneficial bugs. We need the
beneficial bugs to pollinate, prey on destructive insects,
and keep a general balance to our gardens. Keep your
lawn healthy, encourage a balanced eco-system, and use
pesticides only when necessary. As always, if you have
any questions about you lawn our knowledgeable staff
will be happy to help. Call us at 530-365-2256.
|
Fruitful
Event at Wyntour Gardens
|
On August 20, 2005, Wyntour
Gardens and the Red Bluff Garden Center proudly hosted
this summer’s big events: Fruit Tasting and Home
Orchard Seminars. It was a day packed with fun and information
for the home gardener.
Home Orchard expert Ed Laivo from the Dave Wilson Nursery,
gave an engaging and informative presentation on back
yard orchard culture, a technique of prolonged harvest
of tree-ripe fruit from a small space. Ed’s discussion
included planting several or many fruit varieties close
together, which ripen at different times. Ed also covered
the technique of keeping fruit trees small by summer
pruning, which makes trees easier to maintain while
providing plenty of high quality fruit for home use.
The seminar culminated with a Fruit Tasting, generously
sponsored by Dave Wilson nursery. Fifteen varieties
of fruit were served, including pluots, peaches, nectarines,
plums, and Asian pears. The samples for the tasting
were selected based on their proximity to peak maturity,
and tasted wonderful. The fruit was graciously served
by Joe Laivo, who was also a font of information.
Over 100 people attended the event at Wyntour Gardens,
including a photographer and a writer from the Record
Searchlight. Another 50 people attended in Red Bluff.
The event was very successful at both locations, and
we hope to do it again in the future.
In conjunction with Dave Wilson Nursery, Wyntour Gardens
implemented a Soft Order program where our customers
could special order fruit trees that we normally would
not carry. The deadline for the Soft Order fruit tree
program is September 30th, 2005. Participants received
a 10% coupon to use at Wyntour Gardens. This coupon
expires September 22nd , 2005.
For more information about High Density Fruit Tree Culture
go to, www.davewilson.com
|
ATTRACTING
BIRDS TO YOUR YARD |
| Providing nutrition for wild
birds is especially important in the winter, when
food is harder to find. Planning a garden to welcome
birds begins with observing and noting which birds
already frequent your neighborhood or pass through
seasonally. Every species
of bird has particular preferences for food and
shelter. Know the favorites of the birds you wish
to attract. There are many books to help identify
birds. Sunset’s Attracting
Birds has excellent section
on birds & their preferences, while Audubon
field guides remain the classics on American bird
identification.
|
|
| All bird habitats must supply the
following: |
| Food
- Berries, fruits, nuts, nectar; seeds of grasses,
flowers, shrubs & trees, and various insects
(earthworms, caterpillars, flies, aphids, mites)
all provide nourishment for birds. |
| Water
- Birds must have water for drinking and bathing.
Keep birdbaths clean, with fresh water. If you
live in an area where it gets very cold, consider
purchasing a heater especially made for birdbaths,
to keep the water from freezing. |
| Shelter
& Cover - Birds need shelter from the
elements and from predators - from shade to foliar
canopies. In very cold areas, needle-leafed evergreens
are essential for protection. Shrubs can provide
sanctuary from cats and dogs, while thorny shrubs
provide even greater protection from intruders.
A group of shrubs is optimal. |
Nesting
Sites - Birds use many different styles
of housing - on the ground; in grasses or under
foliage; at different heights in shrubbery and
trees; in and on different parts of many structures.
|
|
|
| The greatest mix of bird species occurs
where two or more different habitats come together in
borders of mixed vegetation. For instance, where a field
joins a grove of willows, or a forest opens into a meadow
- tall trees giving way to shorter ones, then merging
into shrubbery. The goal as a gardener is to create an
arrangement of plants that simulates these “edges”.
Diversity of plant species is the key to successful
landscaping for attracting birds. Plan your landscape
with lots of variety in height, types of plants, flowers,
pods, seeds, etc. Plan for succeeding and overlapping
seasons. In very cold climates, be sure to include dense,
needle-leafed evergreens. Include a garden oasis, with
shallow water for bathing.
Create a hedgerow between yards or along roadways using
a fruiting hedge for a screen. Serviceberry, blueberry,
raspberry, elderberry, holly, hawthorn, and rugosa roses
are great hedge plants. When pruning shrubbery, take
care to not disturb bird nests.
Do not use pesticides near birdscapes. Check that no
preservatives have been used in any commercially prepared
bird seeds.
There are many types of pre-made bird feeders and bird
houses available, suitable for different types of birds.
Research the birds you wish to attract, and purchase the
appropriate type of feeder and seed. |
|
| There are many prepared mixes of seeds
and other bird foods available. |
| Black oil sunflower seed is considered
the best all-around food for attracting the largest
variety of songbirds. |
| Other favorites are sunflower hearts,
peanuts, other nutmeats, safflower seeds or specially
prepared seed mixtures. |
| Fresh & dried fruits are enjoyed
by many species, but take care that these are fresh.
Do not allow fruits or any bird food to become moldy. |
Suet. Wild birds need very high
levels of fat to survive, and suet contains the fats
that birds need.
|
|
| Birds find food by sight. Initially,
place the feeder in a spot far enough out in the yard
to be visible to the birds, yet where it cannot be reached
by squirrels other predators. Once the birds realize there
is food available, and begin to frequent your “bird
oasis”, the feeder can gradually be moved closer
to the house to allow for better viewing.
Consider your bird garden an ongoing project. Let the
birds rate your choices. Notice what works well. Remember,
it will take time for the birds to discover and begin
to use the habitat you’ve created.
|
| Compost is a nutrient rich soil amendment
that fertilizes, conditions and improves soil structure.
Fall is a perfect time to get a compost pile started,
because there is so much green matter and leaves from
garden cleanup.
Decomposition depends upon air, water, bacteria, fungi
and other microscopic organisms, as well as larger organisms
including earthworms, slugs, spiders, ants and flies.
|
| GOOD FOR COMPOSTING
- HEALTHY GARDEN CLIPPINGS |
| grass clippings |
| cut annuals, perennials, vegetables |
| leaves |
| kitchen veggie waste, including
egg shells, coffee grounds and unbleached paper coffee
filters |
weeds that do not have seed pods
|
| DO NOT USE: |
| Only use undiseased
matter. Discard any disease-infected clippings in trash
(any clippings with signs of mold, aphid, other insect
infestation, etc.) to avoid spreading disease |
| greasy foods |
| cooked foods |
| meats, fish, cheeses |
| weeds that have gone to seed |
thorny branches (roses, blackberries)
|
| USEFUL TIPS FOR SUCCESSFUL
COMPOSTING: |
| MOST IMPORTANT NEEDS: AIR, WATER |
| Add new ingredients in layers, alternating
wet/green with dry/brown. |
The smaller the pieces are cut,
the faster they will decompose.
Use chippers if possible. Shred piles of fallen leaves
with a lawn mower. |
| Use COMPOST STARTER or Achillea
(Yarrow) clippings to accelerate decomposition |
| Turn the pile often - bi-weekly
is optimal. Organisms need air to break down garden
clippings and kitchen refuse. Turning aerates the pile,
hastening the decay and ultimate breakdown of composted
materials. Use a fork to turn the pile. |
| The compost pile needs to stay moist
but not wet - like the consistency of a squeezed out
sponge. If pile is very wet, add sawdust to absorb excess
water. |
| Your compost pile should smell sweet
and fresh. If it smells poorly, it is probably not getting
enough air. Turn more often, and add dry, carbon-rich
materials like dead leaves and sawdust. |
| Rotted manure gets treated as a
wet/green material - it speeds decomposition. |
When adding high carbon ingredients
such as sawdust, wood shavings and ground bark, also
add additional nitrogen to the mix (grass clippings).
|
| THE COMPOST
PILE should measure at least 3 feet on all sides,
so that it will generate enough heat to decompose contents
quickly. Maximum size: no more than 6 feet high &
wide. |
| |
| There are many types of Compost
Bins: |
| Rotating barrels - easy to turn |
| Simple chicken wire structure |
| 3-box set-up made from new or recycled
wood or pallets |
| Garbage cans |
| Open piles |
| |
| Easy access to finished compost
is very important. Lids for keeping out excess moisture
are also useful. Weed seeds
and disease organisms will be destroyed if the temperature
of the compost pile reaches 150 - 160 degrees.
|
| COLD COMPOSTING |
| One can also make a compost pile
and leave it untended and unturned for up to a year. It
will slowly decompose but weed seeds will not be killed.
This is considered “cold composting”, and
is useful for large quantities of leaves, grass clippings
and other garden waste. Cow
manure, blood meal & fresh grass clippings are high
in nitrogen and they speed decomposition.
When decomposition has completed, sift
the compost to remove any large matter that has not
decomposed completely. Return these materials to the
next pile.
Mix your new, nutrient rich compost
into flower and vegetable beds, or use as mulch.
|
USING
COVER CROPS TO IMPROVE YOUR SOIL |
| |
| Green manuring is the growing and turning
under of crops to fertilize and improve the soil. It is
a very old practice, with Chinese gardeners using green
manures for nearly 3,000 years. The ancient Greeks and
Romans also practiced green manuring. |
| |
Cover crops, or green manure, are one
of the cornerstones of ecological agriculture.
They provide outstanding benefits for the soil & future
crops in the following ways: |
| Enrich the soil by increasing organic
matter content |
| Increase earthworms & beneficial
microorganisms |
| Increase the Nitrogen and other
minerals available to the plants |
| Stabilize the soil to prevent erosion
(victims of the recent fires should consider using cover
crops on their bare hillsides) |
| Provide habitat for beneficial insects |
| Improve water, root & air penetration
in the soil |
| Increase soil’s moisture-holding
capacity |
| Choke out weeds |
| Break up subsoil |
| Reduce pests |
| Provide aesthetic value and color
|
| |
| Cover-crops are easy, more economical
and more environmental than applying chemical fertilizers.
It is essentially turning your entire garden into an efficient
compost pile.
The basic idea of cover-cropping is to plant a field
with a crop that will benefit the soil. Planting this
crop directly after the growing season is over will
help keep existing soil nutrients from washing away
during the winter.
The cover crop seed is broadcast on well-tilled ground,
then covered with a thin layer of soil. It is especially
important to keep the seed moist when just planted,
keeping the soil wet 1”-2” below the seeding
depth. Keep irrigated throughout the growing season.
The more growth ahe cover crop makes in the Fall, the
better. The crops will continue to grow throughout the
winter.In spring, the cover crops are mowed down then
tilled back into the ground, roots and all. The best
time to till in the cover crop is when 50% of the flowers
are in bloom. It is important to till the mowed crop
into the soil as soon as possible, because the green
matter loses nitrogen and carbon very rapidly if left
exposed to the sun. If possible, chop the crop for faster
decomposition. The green material is then allowed to
decompose for a few weeks in the soil, putting valuable
nutrients back into the soil. The breakdown process
takes 10-21 days.
Legumes like alfalfa, clover, vetch, peas & beans
are excellent for cover cropping because they build
(or “fix”) Nitrogen in the soil. Alfalfa
is the best of the nitrogen-fixing crops. Buckwheat
and ryegrass are effective against weeds, by growing
so quickly that it soon overpowers the weeds and chokes
them out.
It is important to inoculate (or coat the seed), to
insure a high level of viable rhizobacteria when the
seed germinates. Rhizobacteria fixes beneficial bacteria
to rhizomes of legumes to assist in the breakdown of
plant residues and convert them to humus for plant growth.
An increase in this organic matter maximizes the soils
ability to retain moisture, reducing run-off of moisture
and fertilizers due to erosion by wind and water. Rhizobacteria
naturally exists in the soil, but not in sufficient
amounts to maximize nitrogen fixation.
If you are planting your first cover crop, we suggest
planting a seed mixture specially formulated for the
specific season (spring or fall), such as our GREEN
MANURE mix, consisting of Bell Beans, Austrain Field
Peas and Common Vetch.
If possible, test the soil prior to planting to determine
whether it is deficient in any specific nutrients. A
cover crop can then be selected which can address the
deficiencies.
Ideally, crops should be rotated after each season,
allowing for a fall/winter cover crop between plantings.
|
|
| |
| |
Perennials
for Fall Planting |
| |
Fall is an excellent time
to plant perennials. The warm weather gives roots
time to establish before cold sets in. Perennials
are easy to plant, require little care during the
winter, and are good filler for bare patches in
the landscape. When spring arrives, you will have
a jump on garden tasks, as some of the work will
already be done.
There are many species of hardy perennials which
will over-winter well in Shasta County. The following
list is a selection of plants available at Wyntour
Gardens: Aster
frikartii Monch. Daisylike
lavender-blue flowers; plants 3 feet tall. Sun.
Coreopsis. Daisylike flowers in yellow,
orange, maroon, or red. Full sun.
Delphinium (D. elatum). Tall spires of
flowers, mostly in shades of blue; some strains
have flowers in shades of raspberry rose and lilac
to deep violet. Giant Pacific hybrids can reach
8 feet tall; Flue Fountains grow 2 to 2 1/2 feet
tall. All need rich, porous soil. Sun.
Diascia. Low-growing plants with coral,
pink, or lavender flowers. Full sun to partial
shade.
Erigeron karvinskianus (Santa Barbara
daisy). Spreading evergreen perennial ground cover
grows 1 foot tall by 4 to 6 feet across. White
or pinkish daisy flowers appear all year in mild
climates. Reseeds. Sun or light shade.
Gaillardia grandiflora (Blanket flower).
Daisylike flowers in shades of red and yellow
with orange or maroon bands. Sun.
Guara lindheimeri. Spikes of white or
pink blossoms that last for many months. Full
sun.
Lavender. Beautiful shrubby perennials
with spikes of bloom in shades of purple to sky
blue. French lavender (Lavandula dentata) is an
upright, rounded, evergreen shrub 2 to 3 feet
tall with highly fragrant lavender flowers. Spanish
lavender (L. stoechas) grows 1 1/2 to 3 feet tall
and bears showy purple blooms in early summer.
English lavender (L. angustifolia) is the classic
fragrant lavender used to make potpourris and
perfumes; plants grow to 4 feet tall. All lavenders
need loose, fast-draining soil.
Nemesia fruticans. Vanilla-scented lavender
and pink or white flowers on a bushy evergreen
plant; frows to 1 foot tall. (Zones 16-24 -
does it grow here?)
Nepeta faassenii (Catmint). Spikes of lavender-blue
flowers on mounding plants with gray-green foliage.
Sun.
Penstemon (P. gloxinioides). Bush, upright
perennial 2 to 3 feet tall with red tubular flowers
along the stems. Apple Blossom (pink),
Firebird (red), and Midnight
(purple) are particularly long-blooming varieties.
Sun.
Phygelius (Cape fuchsia). Shrubby perennial
with drooping, fuchsialike flowers in pink, red,
or pale yellow; to 4 feet tall. Sun or light shade.
Salvia. Many kinds. Autumn sage (Salvia
greggii), a bushy evergreen shrub to 3 feet tall,
bears small flowers in many colors, from white
and yellow to orange and lipstick red (depending
on variety), late spring to fall. Sun
Scabiosa Butterfly Blue and Pink
Mist). Lacy-looking, 1-inch-wide blue
or pink flowers. Blooms much of the year in mild
climates. Full sun.
Scaevola aemula. Low-sprawling plants
produce masses of lavender-blue flowers. Full
sun.
Verbena. Mostly ground cover plants that
thrive in heat. Homestead Purple grows
up to 18 inches tall and has large (2-inch) purple
flower heads. Varieties of V. peruviana come in
pink, purple, red, and white, and stay 3 inches
tall. Sun.
Achillea (Yarrow). Finely cut green or
gray leaves; flowers borne in flattish clusters.
A. millefolium grows to 3 feet tall and bears
white flowers; hybrids have flowers that range
from red and rose to cream. A. filipendulina (4
to 5 feet tall) has flowers in shades of yellow.
Sun. |
| |
Amending
Clay Soil with Gypsum
|
Clay soil is easily identified
because it is hard! It is so
tightly compacted that little oxygen is able to
get through the soil particles. Water is able to
soak through, nutrients are available to the roots,
but there is no oxygen which is critically needed
for plants to survive. Gypsum is the most basic
soil amendment for the clay soils of Shasta County.
Compacted soils can cause numerous problems besides
stunted growth or death of large plants and trees.
Moss and algae may appear. Results of compacted/clay
soils usually show within six months to one year
after planting.
The soil particles need to be separated to allow
for free flow of oxygen, nutrients and water. Gypsum
does this.
Good soil provides plant roots with aeration as
well as retention of water and nutrients. Folks
tend to forget the importance of oxygen in the three
necessities of healthy root growth - water, nutrients,
and oxygen. In root growth, keep in mind the root
tip needs to be able to move through the soil looking
for water and oxygen. Small hairs on the roots absorb
the nutrients. What does gypsum
do?
Gypsum is calcium phosphate. When added to the soil,
gypsum helps to break up the soil particles allowing
movement of particles stuck together, allowing air
and water to penetrate and reach those deep roots
looking for oxygen or air, water and nutrients.
It is best to cultivate the soil as deeply as possible
before adding gypsum, then add the gypsum in the
proportions specified on the package, and cultivate
again, mixing it in as thoroughly as possible. Water
thoroughly before planting. It is best to wait at
least 24 hours before planting to give the gypsum
time to work. You will find that in a short time
your soil is much more friable (breaks apart easily,
rather than sticking together), and is easier to
handle. Gypsum can be added to the soil any time
planting is done.
Think of the hole you are digging for your new plant
as a pot without a hole, with no where for the roots
to go once they reach the edge of the pot. This
is why it is important to dig the hole two to three
times as deep and wide as the root ball. Remember
to add some gypsum at the bottom of the hole, to
open up the soil so the roots can penetrate the
hard clay. Then add a mixture of 50% existing soil
mixed with 50% good planting mix around the root
ball to fill the hole. Be sure to water thoroughly,
making sure the entire root ball is completely saturated.
We have several excellent gypsum products available
at the nursery. |
| |
Why
and When to Use Dormant Sprays |
| |
| Most deciduous plants undergo
a period when their growth process greatly slows
down. For many plants, this coincides with the onset
of winter, as days grow shorter, and temperatures
grow colder. You can recognize when the plant is
dormant, by the leaves falling from the trees or
shrubs. This is the time
to apply dormant sprays to fruit trees and roses,
to help control various forms of fungus and disease
(including black spot, peach leaf curl and many
blights), and insects such aphids, whitefly, spider
mites, scale and mealybug, which can devastate
your plants when the weather grows warmer. The
chemicals in the dormant sprays will not affect
the fruit at this time, since the sap is barely
flowing through the trees.
For pest control, fruit trees
should be sprayed with Dormant Oil once each year,
during December. Master Nursery Pest
Fighter Year-Round Spray Oil, Lilly Miller Superior
Type Spray Oil, Monterey Saf-T-Side, and Neem
Oil are a sampling of the Dormant
Oils we recommend for your deciduous plants.
For disease, it is most effective
to spray Fruit Trees and Roses three times: Thanksgiving,
Christmas and Valentine’s Day. Copper Sulfate
products are recommended for fruit trees, and
Lime Sulfur is best for fruit trees. Lilly
Miller Polysul Dormant Spray, Lilly Miller Microcop
Fungicide (comes with container
of Sta-Stuk “M”
for better adherence) and Monterey
Liqui-Cop are all effective products
for disease control.
There are also products that enhance
Dormant Spray application. Spray Grip
helps spray adhere to branches. Signal is a colorant
to be mixed with sprays so you can see where it
has been applied.
In addition to the products mentioned
above, Wyntour Gardens carries a wide selection
of other products to benefit the overall health
of your plants, as well as to address specific
problems. Our staff are extremely knowledgeable,
and are happy to answer your questions regarding
amendments and overall gardening products. Also,
refer to the George’s
Almanac section of this website for
more information and specific Fall gardening suggestions. |
| |
Poison
Oak
(Rhus diversiloba and Rhus toxicodendron)
|
| |
One of the most widespread and
troublesome of all pest plants, this woody perennial
inflicts a high toll of suffering every year, especially
during the summer months. Rhus
diversiloba is a shrub or sometimes a vine climbing
to about 8 feet high. It is native from British
Columbia to California. Rhus Toxicodendron
is a low shrub, native from New Jersey to Tennessee
and southern Missouri and southwards to Mississippi
and Florida. Poison ivy (Rhus radicans)
and Poison sumac (Rhus vernix)
are closely related to poison oak, and are equally
toxic and nasty.
The leaves of poison oak are divided into three
distinct leaflets, either elliptical or oval in
shape. Green leaves turn brilliant orange to red
in the fall. In May and June, clusters of greenish
flowers bloom from the centers of the leaves. The
flowers are followed by round, green to tan fruit
containing seeds. New plants sprout from the seeds
as well as from creeping, underground stems.
Poison oak prefers dry areas with poor, sandy soil.
It is frequently found in wooded lots, along roadways,
in yards and non-crop areas.
Poison oak is known for the irritating rash caused
by the oily sap found in all parts of the plant.
The greatest irritations occur in the spring when
the sap is flowing freely. However, rashes can develop
if the plant is contacted at any time of the year.
Irritations develop after direct contact with the
plant, by contact with contaminated clothing, tools,
pet hair, or smoke from burning plants.
Contact causes inflammation and swelling of the
skin, followed by intense irritation, itching and
blisters. Often the skin breaks, the liquid escapes,
and scabs or crusts form. Symptoms may appear from
12 to 24 hours after contact, although it varies
from a few hours to several days. Some persons are
apparently more susceptible than others, and in
serious cases, medical attention is advised. Also,
contact with the plant at different times of the
year may result in varying degrees of infection
and skin irritation. CONTROL:
Do not hand-pull or burn poison oak plants.
Any pieces of root left behind will sprout into
new plants. The oil also remains potent on clothing
for up to two years. When burned, the oil vaporizes
and the smoke causes skin, eye, and lung irritations.
Herbicides are the safest way to rid an area of
poison oak. We have found the following products
to be most effective: Monterey Brush Buster,
Lily Miller Blackberry & Brush Killer and Bayer
All-in-One Weed Killer.
In large areas, poison oak can be controlled
by mowing close to the ground in midsummer followed
by plowing or harrowing, or by grazing sheep or
goats. For smaller patches, the roots may be dug
out, taking extreme care not to let the plant come
in contact with skin. Wearing long sleeves and leather
or vinyl gauntlet gloves (available at Wyntour Gardens)
are essential for such a project. Smothering the
roots under heavy black plastic or cardboard can
also be effective, especially in areas where it
is difficult to mow, such as under trees.
Place dead plants in plastic bags and tie securely.
Discard bags, gloves, and any other products and
clothing which may have come in contact with the
plants. Soaking affected clothing in water with
a small amount of ammonia is useful in removing
the oil from the fabric.
If contact with poison oak is known or suspected,
immediate lathering with a strong alkali soap (Lava)
with frequent rinsing can prevent inflammation and
blistering. The alkali soup emulsifies the oil and,
by thorough rinsing, this may remove the oil from
the skin.
Applying a drying agent such as rubbing alcohol
or a solution of baking soda and water are also
effective measures.
Several over-the-counter products are available,
should you happen to contact poison oak. |
| |
SCARECROWS
- Guardians of the Crops |
| Scarecrows are an ancient
art form. They have been used for more than 3,000
years, in cultures all over the world, scaring the
birds away from crops to insure a complete harvest.
Native American tribes throughout North America
used scarecrows or human bird scarers to protect
their crops. Scarecrows
were extremely popular in fields and Victory Gardens
across America during the Great Depression of
the 1930’s. After WWII, when farming became
big business and chemical sprays were used on
a large scale, scarecrows became less used.
Yet Scarecrows really work! It’s
important to put scarecrows out as soon as crops
are planted, to keep the birds from eating the
newly planted seeds.
Scarecrows also celebrate the
beauty and tranquility of fall and add charm and
whimsy to yard and garden. They can be serious,
scary and downright funny. They tend to look like
people, yet cats and large, scary birds are also
popular. Scarecrows can be made of many different
materials, though are mostly made of clothing
stuffed with straw. Often the faces are made from
pumpkins or gourds.
In the late 1800’s, Zuni
children in the American Southwest has contests
to see who could make the most unusual scarecrow.
Today, Scarecrow Contests remain a popular activity
in communities across the US.
Other things to use to keep birds
away are: inflatable scarecrows, shiny streamers
(these work great for grapes), old CD’s
hanging on fishing line, motion activated sprinklers
(for larger animals), bird netting, flags, cans
on strings, noisemakers.
This is the fourth year Wyntour
Gardens has hosted a scarecrow contest. We received
many creative entries from individuals and schools
around the County. Here is a list of the winners
and photos of some of the scarecrows.
|
Wyntour
Gardens' 2004 Scarecrow Contest Winners
|
Children
- Individual Category |
| 1st Prize: |
Fred Will Shoot |
made by: |
Hunter Spade, Redding |
| 2nd Prize: |
Jacko the Contractor |
made by: |
Nicole Peletta, Redding |
| 3rd Prize: |
Cowabunga |
made by: |
Travis Uncapher, Redding |
| |
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|
|
Children
- Group Category |
| 1st Prize: |
Masked Man |
made by: |
Whitmore Elementary, Grades
3-4-5 |
| 2nd Prize: |
Popeye |
made by: |
Whitmore Elementary, 8th Grade |
| 3rd Prize: |
Scratchedy Pete |
made by: |
Whitmore Elementary, 7th Grade |
| |
|
|
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| 1st Prize: |
Dr. Livingstone |
made by: |
Shari Skalland,
Montgomery Creek |
| 2nd Prize: |
Alligator Hat |
made by: |
Sandy Stewart
Australian Hat Outlet |
| |
|
|
|
The Alta Mesa School Garden
Club
Morgan Keaton
Marshall Spade
Erin Uncapher
Whitmore Elementary K-1 & 6th Grade
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Our Bare-Root Season
Has Begun
|
You can buy a lot of things bare-root,
from fruit to vegetables, vines and flowers. If you are looking
to purchase one of these plants, all you see at your local garden
center is a bunch of dormant twigs, don’t be fooled. By
spring, if properly planted, these seemingly plain branches
will be covered with leaf buds and heavenly scented blooms such
as Wisteria or Lilac.
There are many reasons to take this leap of faith from bare
root to blossom. Bare-root plants have many advantages over
plants in containers: |
|
- A larger selection of varieties is available with bare-root
plants. For instance, if you have your heart set on a specialty
multiple-grafted tree, such as a Fruit Salad tree with four
different types of fruit, a three or four-in-one fruit tree
combination, it is to your advantage to buy bare root and
purchase it early in the season, because bare root fruit
trees are very popular and sell out quickly.
|
- You also have more choices of the type of root stock
your plants are grafted onto, in case you have a special
situation, such as wet soil, or height or size limitation.
|
- Bare-root plants usually establish themselves more quickly
than plants in containers, or balled and burlap. Plants
in containers can be root bound or under developed. The
machinery used by wholesale nurseries to harvest bare root
trees dig bigger and deeper than ball and burlap harvesters.
For fruit trees, two to three feet of growth can be expected
the first year.
|
- Planting trees, vines, and vegetables while they are
dormant eliminates transplant shock (which retards growth),
and bare root plants haven’t been spoiled by rich
potting soils.
Our bare root trees will be pruned at the time of purchase,
and come with our bare-root guarantee, which is valid
for one year, as long as you follow our simple instructions
on the planting and care of your bare-root purchases.
Beware, once you plant bare root fruit trees, shade trees,
vine and flowering shrubs you may find yourself hooked.
|
| |
Designing
for Winter Interest |
Planning your landscape for year
round color and interest can be a challenge. One of the ways
to accomplish this design feat more easily is to use plants
with three or four season interest. There are many varieties
of trees which fall into this category, with branches forming
dramatic stark or weeping patterns; abd textured bark often
flaking or peeling, adding dramatic color against a winter sky.
Malus ‘Prairefire’ is
a wonderful Crabapple with purple new foliage,
clear red-pink flowers and small dark red fruit that hangs on
well after the leaves drop in autumn. Harry Lauders
Walking Stick (Corylus avellana “Contora”)
is small tree famous for its gnarled and twisted branches, used
all year long in flower arrangements. The leaves of Harry
Lauder’s Walking Stick turn golden yellow in
fall then drop to reveal its contorted unusual form.
Hawthorns crataegus are graceful street trees
with multi-season interest. English Hawthorn C. laevigata
‘Paul’s Scarlet’ is covered in clusters
of double red flowers which turn to vivid red berries fall and
winter. ‘Carriere’ Hawthorn has
open branches, toothed leaves that turn red in fall and big
orange red berries in winter.
Evergreen conifers are winter landscape classic. Spruces ,
pines and junipers can spread good
cheer all year long with their classic upright or pendulum and
contorted shapes, some with variegated or unusual green color.
Dwarf varieties are becoming more available, offering a fit
for any landscape. Cedrus deodara 'Snow Sprite'
is a dwarf, weeping cedar with icy green-blue needles. Dwarf
Norway Spruce (Picea abies ‘Pumila’) has
interesting blue-green needles on dense branches.
Many shrubs offer an abundance of seasonal display with flowers,
berries, interesting bark and branch structure. Firethorn
(Pyracantha) has glossy oval leaves and small fragrant
flowers that turn to orange-red berries that last from fall
through Christmas. Crape Myrtles (Lagerstroemia)
offer a variety of blooming colors through the summer, then
drop their leaves to reveal attractive trunks with exfoliating
bark. Heavenly Bamboo (Nandina) has cane-like
branches and fine-textured foliage that turns purple or crimson
in winter, many bearing white or red berries.
With a good backbone of trees and shrubs with multi-season interest,
you may find that ornamental grasses or grass-like plants will
help provide color and drama in both masses and as accents.
These cultivars thrive when most perennials become skeletons.
Japanese sweet flag (Acorus) has grassy leaves
which smell sweet when crushed. There are different varieties
for different uses from ground cover to containers to around
ponds. Variegated sweet flag has vertical yellow-white stripes.
Blue Oat Grass Helictotrichon (Avena) semperrivrens
is a cool season true grass with clumps of blue foliage. Its
flowers bloom early, starting bluish white and dry to a golden
wheat color. ‘Karl Foerster’ Feather Reed
Grass, calamagrostis acutifloia ‘stricta’
was named Perennial Plant of the Year in 2001. It is a versatile,
attractive, and a low maintenance grass with loose feathery
flowers that last into winter.
Some plants are so special they will carry their own in the
garden for their winter display alone. Many Camellias
bloom in the winter. 'Yuletide' has single,
glowing red flowers with prominent yellow stamens for a blaze
of holiday color. The classic evergreen Hollies, (Ilex)
are a diverse group of holiday classics that range in size from
6- inches to 70-feet-tall. Leaves may be a rich glossy green,
or variegated. Berries can be red, orange, yellow, or black.
Don’t forget winter annuals such as Snapdragons,
pansies, violas, cyclamen and primula,
to add instant beauty in a wide variety of situations. Winter
vegetables such as kale, cabbage, Swiss card
and lettuce will offer both color and flavor
to your winter garden. Fortunately the winter climate here in
Northern California offers an occasional sunny afternoon to
get out of the house and add a treasure or two to our gardens
when the ground is nice and soft. Here at Wyntour Gardens we
have an abundance of interesting plants from trees to annuals,
all in their winter glory. |
| |
Recommended
Products for Fruit Tree & Rose Care |
When using
any recommended product, it is extremely important
to read and follow the directions carefully.
Products for Planting:
Master Nursery Master Start -or- E.B. Stone Organics Sure
Start
Master Nursery Eureka Planting Mix
Paydirt and Bumper Crop
(Note: These are soil amendments, and must be mixed with
existing soil.)
Gypsum
(Breaks up clay soil. Comes in granular, palletized and
powder forms.)
Stakes/Ties: V.I.T. Products Hose & Wire Supports
For Fertilizing Established
Plants:
Master Nursery Fruit Tree & Vine food –or- E.B.
Stone Organics Citrus and Fruit Tree Food
(be sure to follow directions carefully)
Master Nursery Rose & Flower Food –or- E.B. Stone
Organics Rose & Flower Food
Master Nursery Bud & Bloom
(water soluble for foliar feeding)
For Pruning Established
Trees:
Felco Bypass Pruners and Pruning Saws
Corona Bypass Pruners
Diamond-lap Sharpeners
For sterilizing pruning shears: Alcohol, peroxide or bleach,
diluted in water 50%/50%
For sealing large cuts: Doc Farwell’s Seal & Heal
To prevent sunburn: Frazee Tree Trunk Paint
For All Gardening Chores:
Master Nursery Nitrile Grip ATLAS Gloves
Master Nursery Master Grip Therma Fit ATLAS Gloves
(Insulated model. These gloves are great for cold weather!)
Especially for Pruning
Roses:
American Beauty Leather Gauntlet Gloves
(These gloves are the finest quality available. Own a pair,
you will never need another!)
Boss THORNgard-Plus vinyl Gauntlet Gloves with leather palms
(More reasonably priced, and still work darn well.)
Recommended Publications:
Sunset Western Garden Book
How to Prune Fruit Trees
by Sanford Martin
Bareroot Fruit, Nut & Shade Trees
from the Dave Wilson Nursery
|
| |
Instructions
for Planting Bare Root Trees
|
| New bare root trees should be planted
as soon as they are brought home, though they can be ‘healed
in’ in a shallow trench filled with soil or sawdust for
up to two weeks. Be sure to soak its roots for one hour or more
(no longer than 24 hours) in a bucket of water or a solution
of SUPERthrive and water before planting.
When planting new bare root trees, dig a hole
twice as large than the root mass and no deeper than it was
in the growing field. This is indicated by the dirt line on
the trunk. Mix the native soil removed from the hole with
50% Master Nursery Eureka Planting Mix or
Master Nursery Pay Dirt. Fertilize with a
high-phosphorus fertilizer such as Master Nursery
Master Start to get the root system growing.
Make a mound of soil/fertilizer mixture in
the bottom of the planting hole. Place the tree in the hole,
with the cut section of the graft area facing to the northeast,
for additional protection against sunburn and insect infestation.
Fan out the roots around the top of the mound.
Refill the hole with one-half of the soil
mixture. Water thoroughly with a water/SUPERthrive
or B1 solution and let is soak in. Add the
rest of the soil, making sure the roots are covered. Remember
to mulch well, but keep the mulch at least six inches from
the base of the tree to prevent crown rot.
Paint the trunk of the tree, up to the first
branch, with Doc Farwell’s Seal & Heal,
white latex paint or other tree trunk paint to prevent sunburn
and protect the trunk from disease and insects.
The roots of bare-root fruit trees have usually
been trimmed by the grower or nursery before it is purchased.
The branches of newly planted (1-year old) bare root trees
purchased at Wyntour Gardens or the Red Bluff Garden Center
most likely have already been pruned, and no further pruning
is necessary until next January.
Check water needs often, making sure the entire
root system stays damp, but being careful to not over-water.
Proper watering during the entire first year is extremely
important to the future health of your tree. Hand watering
during the first summer may be necessary, especially in the
hot northern California summers.
During the second year of your new tree’s
growth, attend a FREE fruit-tree pruning class at Wyntour
Gardens or the Red Bluff Garden Center to learn the correct
pruning techniques for healthy trees and delicious fruit.
|
What
In The World Is A Pluot?
|
A Pluot is a complex cross
of 75% plum and 25% apricot. The Pluot was developed along with
the Aprium (75% apricot and 25% plum) by Zaiger
Genetics from Modesto, California which has registered a trademark.
This complicated hybridizing requires several generations of
crosses to create this new fruit. Pluots have
mainly a plum parentage and smooth skins like plums. They have
a unique, sweet, flavor due to the fruit’s high sugar
content.
We are offering several varieties including; Dapple
Dandy, a creamy white and red-fleshed freestone with
wonderful plum-apricot flavor, Flavor King,
which has spicy bouquet and flavor. Flavor Queen
has a pleasing candy like sweetness, and Flavor Supreme
a sweet, full flavored, red flesh. If you can’t make up
your mind we carry 4 ‘n 1 and 3
‘n 1 trees that will grow three or four different
varieties of Pluot on the same tree. These
multiple-graft trees offer an excellent way to taste the many
delicious Pluot varieties, and are a fantastic
way for people who have limited yard space to grow fruit trees.
|
Coming this Summer - |
PLUOT
TASTING & ORCHARDING SEMINAR
|
Perhaps you have purchased Pluots
in the grocery store, only to be disappointed by their lack
of flavor. We are offering interested folks a rare opportunity
to taste the best of the best this August 20th,
when Ed Laivo from the Dave Wilson Nursery will come to Wyntour
Gardens and the Red Bluff Garden Center for a PLUOT
TASTING! Ed will bring a selection of tree-ripened
Pluots, picked at their point of perfection, and customers will
be able to sample these delicious fruits. Ed will also be giving
a talk on High Density Orcharding.
If you currently have an orchard, or are planning on planting
one, this opportunity to glean information from one of the best
growers in the industry should not be missed. The schedule is
as follows: |
PLUOT
TASTING AND HIGH DENSITY ORCHARDING SEMINAR
Saturday, August 20, 2005
10:00 am at Wyntour Gardens
1:00 pm at the Red Bluff Garden Center
Interested in attending? Contact Wyntour Gardens at 530-365-2256
to let us know of your interest. We will contact you in early
summer to remind you of the event, and to take reservations
at that time.
|
| |
Roses
Offer Special Expression for February
Victorians expressed their emotions
with delicate messages of flowers and color. You too can use
roses to share a message that will bring pleasure in long lasting
abundance to your Valentine, and in your garden all year long.
Here is some inspiration
for your own special message.
|
| Color |
Meaning |
Rose Varieties |
| Red |
Admiration |
Lasting Love |
| |
Betrothal |
Lover's Lane |
| |
Deep pure love |
Loves Promise |
| |
Passion |
Rouge Royal |
| |
Fascination |
Red Eden |
| |
Victory |
Olympiad |
| |
Harmony |
Double Delight (red
blend) |
| |
Joy |
Stairway to Heaven |
| |
Charm |
Mr. Lincoln |
| |
|
|
| Cherry Red |
Merriment |
|
| |
Sweetness |
|
| |
Good works |
|
| |
|
|
| Coral |
Good Fortune |
Tropicana |
| |
Longevity |
Tuscan Sun |
| |
Beauty |
Countess Celeste |
| |
Admiration of
Accomplishments |
Coral Meidiland
|
| |
|
|
| Cream |
Richness |
Iceberg |
| |
Perfection |
French Lace |
| |
|
|
| Lavender |
Rarity |
Angel Face |
| |
Dignity |
Heirloom |
| |
|
|
| White |
Unity |
Home and Family |
| |
Silence |
Crystalline |
| |
Respect |
Whisper |
| |
Democracy |
Honor |
| |
|
|
| Yellow |
Friendship |
Easy Going |
| |
Distinction |
Radiant perfume |
| |
Fascination |
Mellow Yellow |
| |
Are you inspired? We have many color
variations so you can create your own blend of emotion
in your rose garden. The red and white Scentimental would
be a great expression of love and unity. Roses are sold
bare root (while they remain dormant) or in 5-gallon containers.
We carry over 200 varieties of roses, including Hybrid
Teas, Grandifloras, Floribundas, Antique, Shrub, and Climbing
Roses. For more information, pick up our handouts on Roses
the next time you visit the nursery. |
Ideas
for Winter Gardening |
| |
| The colder winter months are an ideal
time to plan and undertake larger landscaping and construction
projects. When working outdoors in winter, it’s
a good idea to do jobs that make it possible to keep warm,
rather than static tasks where intricate finger work is
required. It is also easier to see what you are doing
when there are less leaves on the plants and more open
space in the ground.
When pruning, be sure pruning shears and saws are sharp
and clean. Take care to clean pruning implements (with
alcohol or bleach) between each cut, especially if pruning
diseased plants. |
| |
| Winter is a great time to improve
the soil. Especially with clay soils, cultivate to enable
the frost action to break down the soil lumps into smaller
particles without damaging the soil structure.
(Also refer to articles about Cover Crops and Composting
in this section.)
Have your soil analyzed by a certified laboratory to
determine nutrient needs. We recommend the services
of Monarch Laboratory, Inc. in Chico, CA. They will
be happy to send you their price list and soil sample
requirements. |
| |
| |
| Protect any vulnerable plants from frost
and wind-chill damage. Wrap plants with N-SULATE Frost
Cloth or construct protective shelters; tie-down loose
growth on climbers and wall shrubs; move container plants
to warmer, more protected locations and insulate the roots
of container plants by wrapping containers in plastic.
Using twinkly lights to wrap frost-sensitive plants (especially
citrus) will raise the temperature around the plant by
several degrees.
Check ponds and water gardens for any leaks and perform
necessary repairs. Do not allow water in ponds to freeze
for more than 4-5 days - leave a block of wood or a
plastic ball in the pond to prevent a sheet of ice from
forming.
Be careful not to trod on frozen grass, as the cells
within the grass leaves are full of ice rather than
sap, and any contact with the grass will damage the
cells, leaving the grass brown and withered once it
has dried out.
|
Chameleon
Plants for Winter Color |
| |
| While most people think that brilliant
color in the garden is reserved for the warmer months,
many evergreen plants that actually metamorphosize when
the weather turns cold - green leaves become brilliant
red, soft pink, bright yellow and golden bronze; stems
of other plants turn red, and are often not noticed until
the leaves drop. Planting some of these chameleon
plants in your garden can change a drab winter garden
into a brilliant, eye-catching landscape. Acer
palmatum Sango Kaku (Coral Bark Japanese
Maple). A vigorous, upright, tree-like deciduous
Japanese Maple with yellow fall foliage. The branches
turn a striking coral red in winter.
Cornus stolonifera (Redtwig Dogwood).
Grown for its brilliant red fall foliage and winter
twigs, Redtwig Dogwood should be cut back severely late
in the dormant season. Native to moist places, Redtwig
Dogwood needs sufficient water. Grows rapidly to form
a large miltistemmed shrub 7 - 9 feet high, spreading
to 12 feet or wider by creeping underground stems and
rooting branches. Planted as a screen along a property
line, Redtwig Dogwood rapidly becomes a focal point
in the winter garden.
Euonymus fortunei. An
evergreen shrub, E. fortunei is considered one of the
best broad-leafed evergreens where temperatures drop
below zero degrees F. In summer, the leaves are rich
deep green, 1 to 1 1/2 inches long, with scallop-toothed
edges. The following varieties transform into especially
dramatic winter foliage:
| * |
E.
Emerald Gaiety - Grows to 4-5
feet high, 3 feet wide. Dense-growing erect shrub
with deep green leaves edged in white. Leaves turn
a variety of reds, oranges and purples in winter. |
| * |
E.
Emerald n Gold - Similar to
Emerald Gaiety. Dark green leaves with
gold edges, Gold turns brilliant bronze in winter,
and the undersides of the leaves turn red. |
| * |
E.
Ivory Jade - Grows to 3 feet
high, 6 feet wide. Green leaves with creamy white
leaf margins in summer, white edges turn pink in
cold weather. |
Juniperus horizontalis Wiltonii
(Blue Carpet or Blue Rug Juniper). A very flat,
low-growing ground-cover juniper, growing only 4-6 inches
high, and reaching a width of 6-8 feet. The foliage
is intensely silver-blue during the summer, yet becomes
light burgundy in the winter. Excellent as an edging
around a bed.
Junipers grow easily in most types of
soil, with moderate water requirements, as long as drainage
is sufficient. In warmer climates (like Redding), they
prefer partial shade, yet can withstand full sun in
cooler areas. Very little trimming is needed.
Mahonia aquifolium (Oregon Grape).
The state flower of Oregon, this easy to grow evergreen
shrub with spiny edged, holly-like dark green leaves
looks good all year. Yellow flowers are borne in dense,
rounded to spikelike clusters which are followed by
blue or blue-black berrylike fruit which makes good
jelly. The leaves turn purplish or bronze in winter,
especially in cold weather and when grown in full sun.
Nandina domestica (Heavenly Bamboo).
Native to China and Japan, nandina is
reminiscent of bamboo in its lightly branched, canelike
stems and delicate, fine-textured, lacy-looking foliage.
Pinkish to creamy white blossoms appear in spring, followed
by shiny red berries if plants are grouped.
There are many varieties of nandina,
with different colored foliage. All are known for their
winter metamorphosis, and this will vary within the
species depending upon the unique situation of each
plant.. Light, water, type of soil and placement within
the garden will all impact the final result. Most take
on purple and bronze tints in fall, often turning fiery
crimson in winter.
- - - - - - - - - - -
- - - -
The above list is a sampling of the
many plants that transform into winter splendor. The
cold weather months are an excellent time to visit nurseries,
as this is when you can see plants at their winter best.
Theres no need to worry about rain - we have umbrellas
for your shopping convenience. |
|
|
|
Get
Yourself Ready for Springtime Gardening |
| |
by Keri Bither-Barnes, DC, DACBN, Shasta Family
Chiropractic, Anderson |
| |
|
& Sherry Rosen, Marketing Director, Wyntour
Gardens Nursery, Redding |
| |
|
|
As
winter draws to an end, the days get longer
and the smell of spring is in the air. Folks
begin to look around the yard and dream about
summer barbeques, friends and fun. They look
closer at the yard, notice that the weeds
have taken over, and there is an overwhelming
feeling of despair at the work in front of
them.
That first sunny Saturday you enter the weed
zone armed with gloves, shovels, and rakes. you
bend, stretch, stoop, and reach all weekend
hoping to make a dent in the mess. Sunday
night you go to bed with a sense of achievement.
On Monday morning, you reach for the snooze
button, and realize that you can't move. Your
back is throbbing, your arms hurt, and your
legs can't hold you up. What happened?
You felt great while you were gardening -
a little out of shape, but great. You
never dreamed you'd hurt like this.
Dr. Keri Barnes, chiropractor and board eligible
neurologist in Anderson, hears this same scenario
every spring from weekend gardening warriors.
They come in hunched over and wincing in pain.
They receive their treatment, and leave the
office relieved, spouting how they will “never
do it again". They promise to take proper
precautions next year. The next sunny weekend
they return to the yard, and then Monday morning
comes bringing the same memorable aches and
pains. They come back to the office,
hurting once again. Let's
break the cycle. Although “Gardener’s
Back” is great business for chiropractors,
they hate to see people in pain. Here
are some simple tips on training for the
“sport” of gardening.
As in any sport, train before the big day. Two
to four weeks before the season, begin an
exercise program to prepare your muscles.
Focus on exercises that target strengthening
thigh, butt, back and abdominal muscles.
Stretch before, after, and during gardening.
Five minutes of stretching, can save you
a couple of days in pain.
Use proper body mechanics
while working in the garden. Bend and lift
from the knees and upper legs, holding heavy
objects close to the body and keeping the
back as straight as possible. Use tools
like wheelbarrows when moving objects.
Invest in ergonomic tools. Wyntour
Gardens Nursery in Redding offers several
ergonomic hand-held gardening tools including
trowels, cultivators, and pruning sheers
with handles designed for a more comfortable
grip. Felco’s new swivel handled pruners
are preferred by many people who spend a
lot of time pruning. Wyntour Gardens also
carries Bond ratchet pruners which are beneficial
for those with carpal tunnel, by adding
strength to the closing action of the tool.
Use a circle hoe for weeding
and a long handled water wand to reduce
the amount of bending. Water soluble systemic
fertilizers, such as Bayer All in One Rose
Care, can be watered into the soil, again
reducing the amount of bending.
Keep fruit trees pruned
to a low canopy, so the fruit can be harvested
without a ladder. This is a helpful tip
for folks with balance issues.
Get your spine healthy before you challenge
it. Visit your chiropractor before gardening.
Studies show this type of maintenance saves
pain and money. You need far fewer chiropractic
adjustments to prevent an injury than the
amount of visits it takes to fix one.
Dr. Keri Bither-Barnes , Board Certified
Chiropractic Neurologist, of Shasta Family
Chiropractic, is a graduate of Life Chiropractic
College West and the Carrick Institute of
Neurology. Her Anderson office offers treatment
of balance disorders, chronic pain, neuropathies,
movement disorders, low back and neck pain,
as well as offering wellness and preventative
care.
Wyntour Gardens Nursery
in Redding wants the gardening community
to have a beautiful gardening experience.
In addition to the huge selection of gorgeous
plants they carry, their ever-increasing
line of ergonomic tools and products will
hopefully add to the enjoyment.
Hopefully these tips find you in time to
save you the usual discomfort, and inspire
you take care of your body during the coming
gardening season.
|
The
Benefits of Plant Diversity |
| |
If you are
aiming for a healthy garden you should consider
using a wide variety of plants. By mimicking
nature, growing an array plants that provide
nectar at different times, and flowers and
foliage of different shapes and sizes, you
invite a diversity of creatures into your
garden and establish natural pest control.
A garden with varied structural complexity
in all plant types including, flowers, vegetables,
trees, shrubs, and ground covers will encourage
beneficial fungi and bacteria which have the
ability to attack and control more destructive
diseases and discourage overgrowth of detrimental
plants and diseases.
A diverse garden is easy to design. You can
look to nature or to your neighbors for ideas.
A varied garden will open the door to underutilized
plants. Our environment benefits by preservation
of wild flowers and other natives. Most of
all you will enjoy your garden more with a
rich pallet of color and texture. You will
expand your garden experience and learn more.
Here is a partial list of underutilized plants
we recommend for our area:
Salvia Clevelandii Allen Chickering
( is a hybrid of a California native, Sage.
Salvia Clevelandii is a shrub that grows
3-5 feet high with blue-purple spikes of
bloom throughout the summer. It is drought
tolerant and likes full sun.
Andromeda polifolia (Bog Rosemary)
is a low evergreen shrub
growing to 3 feet that has pink curled flowers
that resemble tiny snails in spring. It
prefers acidic soil and moderate water.
Though it is not related to Rosemary, Andromeda(s
needle like leaves strongly resemble rosemary,
but are fatter and a richer green. Bog rosemary
is threatened in the state of Connecticut.
Viburnum plicatum mariesii (Doublefile
Viburnum) is an ornamental shrub
that grows to 8' tall to 10' wide. In spring
it has white blooms along each side of the
stem in double file. Viburnum likes sun
to partial shade in evenly moist soil.
Westringia fruticosa 'Smokey' (Coast
Rosemary) is a gray-green shrub
with petite needle-like leaves edged in
cream. Small white flowers bloom year-round.
Westringia is a hardy plant and good for
coastal areas. Westringia
grows 4’-6’ tall, spreading
5’-10’ wide. Westringia is drought
tolerant.
Chamaecyparis pisifera 'Sungold'
(False Cypress) is a conifer with
weeping, golden, thread-like branches that
grows in a loose mound to 5' high and 8'
wide. False Cypress needs
full sun or part shade and protection from
the wind. Ensure that it has good drainage
and water regularly.
Pittosporum tenuifolium Silver Sheen
is a large shrub or small tree with uniform
grey leaves that contrast beautifully with
its slender black twigs. Silver
Sheen has a fine texture that can
be sheared into a neat hedge or left to
grow into a moderately open small tree.
Silver Sheen likes sun
to light shade and moderate to occasional
water once established.
Chamaecyparis lawsoniana 'Ellwoodii'
(Oregon Cedar) is
an upright evergreen shrub with thin blue
green branches, that grows 6 to 10 feet
tall. Oregon Cedar is used
for its decorative dense evergreen foliage.
“Ellwoodii”
requires full sun to part shade and moderate
water.
Osmanthus heterophyllus Goshiki
( is a compact evergreen mounding shrub
that grows 5' high and 4' wide. It(s new
foliage is pinkish bronze maturing to a
mixture of green, gold, and pink areas.
It likes part shade and moist, well drained
soil.
Eriobotrya japonica 'Coppertone'
(Loquat) is a rapidly-growing evergreen
tree that can reach 25' to 30' in height
in the shade but is frequently seen 15'
tall with a 15' to 25' spread in a sunny
location. The 10" to 12" long
leaves are rusty-colored beneath and have
a coarse texture. Fragrant clusters of pale
pink flowers are produced in fall, followed
by the delicious, brightly colored, winter
fruit.
Sarcococca ruscifolia (Sweet Box)
is a slow growing evergreen shrub to 3'
to 5'. It has small white fragrant flowers
followed by red fruit. It needs shade and
regular water. If Sarcococa ruscifolia
is grown against the wall it will form a
natural espalier.
|
CONTAIN
YOUR SPRINGTIME ENTHUSIASM
WITH
CONTAINER PLANTINGS |
| Container
plantings are a simple and beautiful
way to add colorful accents to your
garden. Containers elevate the garden
and provide us closer access. It’s
easier to catch signs of pests and prevention
is simplified with a smaller amount
of plant material and exposed soil surface.
Potting soils come sterilized, which
will hinder weeds and prevent problems
with soil borne diseases that can remain
in the ground for many years. The time
saved with soil preparation can be spent
deciding what flowers you really want
to plant and how many vegetables you
can realistically use.
Containers are portable, giving the
option to experiment with textures
and color, showcasing a succession
of plants as they bloom. The mobility
of containers offers extreme control
over a plants’ environment,
which allows an opportunity for planting
finicky or frost tender species. Planting
in containers can open the door to
specialized gardening, such as tuberosus
begonia or bonsai.
Wyntour Gardens has the largest selection
of glazed containers in the North
Bay, featuring a huge variety of sizes,
styles, and colors. In addition, our
potting bench is available for use
by our customers. Just let us know
that you wish to plant a container,
or replant an existing plant. We will
provide guidance in selecting the
best combination of plants for your
container, give you some pointers
for successful planting, or just offer
moral support and a trowel. In addition,
the soil’s on us! Come in and
pick out a pot and some plants, and
create instant beauty for your garden,
or as a special gift for a friend.
Ways
to Use Container Plantings:
| - |
Change
the visual appearance of an area
and to create outdoor rooms |
| - |
Brighten
up entry ways |
| - |
Create
focal points |
| - |
Place
under trees (like oaks) or in
other places where it is difficult
or impossible to grow in the ground |
| - |
In
groupings to hide unsightly areas |
| - |
To
create instant color and focal
points in new homes with un-landscaped
yards |
| - |
Transfer
your existing plants into containers
to take with you when moving |
Container
plantings are comprised of the following
components:
| - |
Dot
Plant. This is the tallest plant,
usually placed in the center |
| - |
Filler
plants |
| - |
Edge
plants |
| - |
Trailing
plants. Can be filler or edge
plants. Climbing plants, such
as clematis, can be used unsupported
as trailing plants. |
Where
to Begin:
| - |
First
select Dot (central) Plant or
the container. If Dot Plant is
selected first, you should then
decide whether it will be alone
in the container or in a grouping |
| - |
Make
sure all plants have the same
exposure and water requirements. |
| - |
In
shady areas, use light colored
pots, selecting foliage and flowers
for contrast. |
| - |
Be
imaginative. Use vibrant colors
in plants and containers to compliment
existing plantings, landscape
and house colors. |
General
Types of Containers:
| - |
Standard
Jar Shape: Lend themselves well
to general plantings, Mediterranean
and Oriental styles. |
| - |
Shallow
Bowls: Great for plants with small
root structures, especially sedum,
cacti, Bonsai and annuals. |
Wyntour
Gardens' Staff Recommended Potting
Method:
| - |
For
best results, use Master Nursery
Professional Potting Soil or other
top quality potting soil |
| - |
Make
sure all containers have drainage
holes |
| - |
Use
P4 polymer granules for improved
water retention |
| - |
Pot
Feet raise containers off the
ground. This improves air circulation,
discourages sowbugs and protects
patios and decks from staining
and mildew. |
| - |
Plant
Mover platforms on wheels keep
large, heavy plantings off the
ground and are useful for moving
the plants. These are especially
useful with frost-sensitive plants
such as citrus, which need to
be moved to a protected location
during the winter. |
| - |
Large
containers can be partially filled
with Styrofoam peanuts (not corn
based, as these will decompose),
empty milk or soda jugs and/or
uncrushed aluminum cans to take
up space at the bottom and provide
good drainage. |
Container plantings make great gifts,
and can be customized for any holiday
or special occasion with a few ribbons
and decorations. They are easy, fun
and very beautiful. |
|
|
As a flower lover, I had no
respect for annual vegetables until I grew a few
in my garden last summer. Thinking of them as strictly
annuals I was amazed at the bang I got for my dollar.
They provided both flowers and edible fruit. The
tomatoes grew and produced all summer long and the
peppers lasted well into the fall. Cucumbers covered
my chain link fence and provided healthy summertime
snacks for my family. The taste of a fresh picked
melon on a hot August afternoon was heaven. I was
hooked. Here at
Wyntour Gardens we have a lot to offer the vegetable
gardener. By the end of beginning of April our
annual tables will be overflowing with vegetable
seedlings. Our knowledgeable staff can guide you
through the many plants and varieties. Here is
some information on our most popular vegetables
to get you started. Handouts are available with
vegetable planting suggestions and descriptions
of tomato and pepper varieties.
Understanding
Tomatoes |
| Heirloom
tomatoes must be in cultivation for
at least 50 years. Some have been around
for hundreds of years such as Yellow
Pear tomato which has been cultivated
since before 1805. Heirloom tomatoes
must be able to reproduce themselves
from seed as opposed to hybrids which
don’t grow true from their own
seed.
Hybrid
tomatoes will not grow from seeds
to be exactly like the parent plant.
Some hubrids have been bred for disease
resistance and this will be noted
by initials in variety name or on
the label. Here is an explanation
of these initials.
V= Verticillium
resistance. Verticillium wilt
results from infection by a fungus
that invades and plugs the water conducting
tissues in the roots and stems of
plants.
F= Fusarium
resistance. Fusarium wilt,
like Verticillium wilt results from
infection by a fungus that invades
and plugs the water conducting tissues
in the roots and stems of plants.
N=Nematodes.
Nematodes live in the soil and feed
on either the inside or outside of
plant roots. Nematode damage limits
the ability of the root system to
supply the aboveground plant parts
with water and nutrients, causing
the plant to wilt, discolor, and sometimes
die.
T=Tobacco
mosaic virus. Mosaic viruses
cause the foliage to become molted
or streaked. There are no chemical
cures for viruses.
A=Alternaria
stem canker. Cankers are caused
by fungi and bacteria that infect
the soft tissue just under the bark.
As the virus spreads, the tissues
darken and die, which closes off the
water and nutrient conducting vessels.
S=Stempphylium
grey leaf spot. Leaf spotting
fungi spore are blown or splashed
on healthy leaves, and a spot forms
where spores infect a leaf. Leaf spots
are most severe in mild, wet weather.
Often a tomato variety will list
a number of days. This show how many
days to harvest from the day you plant
it in your garden.
Indeterminate,
often written as (In.) means a sprawling
tomato plant that grows 6’-20’
and continues to produce fruit until
cold weather.
Determinate
(D) is bushy plant that grows
18”- to 5’. They are best
for containers. Their fruit is produced
all at once, which makes them the
better choice for cooking and preserving.
The tomato variety Husky
is an exception to the rule, and is
the first indeterminate plant that
is compact. Husky
is a great tasting tomato, perfect
in pots or small spaces. Husky
produces fruit until frost.
|
Peppers |
| Peppers are fun
and easy to grow because they
are relatively pest free. Peppers
are a tender, warm-season vegetable,
so don’t plant them outside
until after the last day of frost
(April 15th in Zone 9). Pepper
plants require higher temperatures,
grow more slowly and are smaller
than most tomato plants.
Peppers prefer well-amended
soil made up of organic matter,
supplemented with a balanced
fertilizer. Place in an area
that will receive the most sun
and plant 18 inches apart with
rows 3 feet apart. Many varieties
will bear heavily, so it is
a good idea to use a small tomato
cage or stake for support. Once
the nighttime temperatures consistently
stay above 50 degrees, plant
seedlings where they will receive
the most sun, 18 inches apart.
Peppers like well-drained soil
with moderate moisture. Use
a starter fertilizer such as
Master Nursery Master
Start when transplanting
into the ground. Supplemental
fertilizers can be used after
the first flush of peppers is
set. Protect pepper plants from
hot dry winds.
When peppers are mature, they
break easily from the plant,
but peppers can be harvested
at any size. Using a sharp knife
to remove the fruit will prevent
damage to their stems. It may
be wise to wear gloves and take
care not to rub your eyes; the
oils can get into sensitive
tissue and burn.
|
Cucumbers |
|
Cucumbers, either for
pickling or slicing, have
become one of the most
popular home garden crops.
Cucumbers are a subtropical
crop, requiring long,
hot days, plenty of sunshine,
and warm nights. Cucumbers
will not take frost so
do not plant them outside
until after the last frost
date, which in Zone 9
is April 15th.
Cucumbers like plenty
of water and loose, well
draining soil. Mulch will
help retain moisture.
Prior to planting, you
should add a complete
fertilizer, such as Master
Nursery 5-10-10 Tomato
and Vegetable Fertilizer.
Cucumber seedlings can
be planted in hills with
2 to 3 plants per hill,
spaced at 4 to 5 feet
apart. They can also be
planted 2 to 3 feet apart,
with rows 5 to 6 feet
apart. Cucumbers can also
be grown in containers,
or up strong trellises.
Cucumbers can be picked
on the basis of size and
are ready for harvest
50 to 70 days from planting.
Harvest by cutting the
stem ¼ inch above
the fruit, taking care
not to break the brittle
vines. As they grow beyond
perfect ripeness, cucumbers
will turn yellow and become
bitter. The growing fruit
takes a lot of the plant’s
energy, so cucumbers should
be picked often to ensure
productivity.
|
Melons |
|
Melons grow on
vines and are native
to the tropics.
They need 3 to 4
months of hot days
and warm nights,
and should not be
planted outside
until April 15th,
the last frost date.
Melons need plenty
of moisture to grow.
Melons need nutrient-rich
soil, well draining
soil. Pick the sunniest
spot to plant melons.
Melons grow best
when soil temperatures
are 70°-85°.
They are large vines
and they need a
lot of room. Plant
seedlings 16 inches
apart on small mounds.
If you are planting
melons in rows plant
them in a zigzag
pattern and keep
rows 36 inches apart.
If garden space
is at a premium
look for a bush
variety or grow
your melon vine
on a strong trellis.
It takes some practice
to know when melons
are ripe. Look at
the part of the
melon on the ground,
if it is gold, or
yellow, the melon
is ripe and ready
to harvest. If the
melon is detached
or is easy to pull
from the vine, it
is ripe. The fruits
will ripen about
the same time so
if one fruit is
ripe, chances are
the rest of the
fruit is ready for
harvest as well.
Most ripe melons
should come off
the vine with no
resistance at all.
|
|
| Citrus
are highly ornamental
sub-tropical
plants which
include oranges,
lemons, limes,
grapefruit,
pummelo &
citron. |
| Citrus
appear in recorded
history for
many centuries.
|
|
|
They were
used as medicinals
in ancient
India and
in the Persian
empire |
|
|
They were
pampered in
the orangeries
of Louis XIV
at Versailles,
not for the
fruit, but
to use
the fragrant
flowers at
his banquets. |
|
|
Citrus was
introduced
into the New
World by Christopher
Columbus |
|
|
Rind of
bergamot (Citrus
bergamia)
continues
to be used
to make eau
de cologne,
and is an
important
ingredient
in many other
perfume products. |
|
|
|
Some
Facts About
Growing Citrus |
|
|
Citrus generally
do better
in warm climates. |
|
|
Citrus are
usually evergreen. |
|
|
Citrus have
sweetly scented
flowers. |
|
|
Most citrus
are thorny.
Perhaps the
thorns developed
to protect
the fruits
from animal
predators. |
|
Citrus
do not like
freezing temperatures
- protect
plants (especially
young plants)
from frost. |
|
- Select
the warmest
microclimate
in your
yard. Avoid
low lying
areas and
cold pockets.
Citrus are
often planted
on slopes.
- For maximum
heat, plant
on southern
or western
sides of
the house.
- Soil will
insulate
roots against
cold. Even
if the top
of the plant
is killed,
new shoots
may sprout
from the
roots the
following
spring.
If new growth
appears
at the graft or
below, remove
this new
growth.
- To encourage
fall hardiness,
avoid feeding
tender plants
with nitrogen
fertilizers
from mid-
to late
summer.
Do not encourage
new growth
at this
time.
- Wrap tiny
twinkle
lights around
trees to
raise the
temperature.
- Build
a frame
with frost
cloth -
do not allow
frost cloth
to touch
the leaves.
- 55 degrees
F is the
lowest temperature
at which
growth takes
place for
most citrus.
- Optimum
temperature
range for
growth of
oranges
is 70 -
90 degrees
|
|
Spring is
a good time
to plant citrus.
|
|
Citrus need
good drainage
and rich soil,
but can grow
in all types
of soil conditions. |
|
Citrus like
lots of water. |
|
Keep in
a sunny location.
|
|
Paint trunks
with white
paint to prevent
sunburn. |
|
Citrus do
well in greenhouses. |
|
Dwarf varieties
do well in
containers,
especially
Meyer Lemons. |
|
Grapefruit
requires long,
hot growing
seasons to
reach peak
quality and
sweetness |
|
Lemons have
lowest heat
requirements |
|
Cut suckers
and water
sprouts. Leaves
are larger
and look different,
branches grow
straight up
and are fat. |
|
Thin fruit
if too heavy
on the limb.
Pruning will
help strengthen
the limbs. |
|
Grafted
trees usually
begin bearing
fruit within
1-2 years.
|
|
Seedlings
often have
unpredictable
fruit quality. |
|
Most varieties
are self-fruitful. |
|
Keep area
beneath the
trees weed
free. |
|
Fertilize
with citrus
fertilizer
in early spring,
early summer,
early autumn.
Reduce nitrogen
in autumn.
|
|
In
addition to
having delicious
fruit, citrus
trees are extremely
rewarding for
the home gardener
and appealing
in the landscape,
for the following
reasons: |
| |
Citrus have
large, bold
leaves |
| |
Citrus bear
brightly colored
fruit in a
variety of
colors |
| |
Citrus trees
can be used
in the landscape
to create
a tropical
ambiance |
| |
Citrus can
be pruned
and espaliered |
| |
There is
much variation
in the size
of citrus
plants, from
small shrubs
(dwarf Meyer
lemon) to
large trees
(grapefruit). |
| |
There is
also much
variation
in the size
of fruits,
from very
small (kumquat)
to very large (pummelo).
|
|
| Sub-tropical
plants are tropical
plants which can be
grown outdoors in
mild winter areas
of the United States. |
| In
order to successfully
grow citrus, it is
important to understand
their native climate.
|
| |
|
| |
|
| |
|
| |
- warm temperatures
throughout
the year
|
|
| Common
Problems |
Yellow
/ Pale green
leaves that
eventually fall
off may indicate
a nitrogen deficiency.
Fruit drop is
caused by inconsistent
watering or
nitrogen deficienty.
Aphids &
scales are common.
Watch carefully,
especially beginning
in May. Ladybugs
and many products
on the market
will control
insects. |
| |
|
Spring
Flowering Trees
and Shrubs |
*
Denotes California
native |
|
| Almond |
Prunus
dulcis |
| Azalea |
Rhododendron |
| Banks
Roses |
Yellow
and white |
| Beauty
Bush |
Kolkwitzia
amabilis |
| Breath
of Heaven |
Coleonema |
| Bridal
Veil Broom |
Genista
monosperma |
| Broom |
Cytisus |
| Carolina
Jessamine |
Gelsemium |
| Clematis |
Clematis |
| *
Daphne |
Daphne |
| Deutzia
|
Deutzia |
| *
Dogwood |
Cornus |
| Double
Delight Nectarine |
P.
p. nucipersica |
| Double
Jewel Peach |
Prunus
persica |
| Euryops |
Euryops |
| *
Flannel Bush |
Fremontodendron |
| Flowering
Crabapple |
Malus |
| Flowering
Peach |
Prunus
persica |
| Flowering
Pear |
Pyrus
communis |
| Flowering
Quince |
Chaenomeles |
| Forsythia |
Forsythia |
| Honeysuckle |
Lonicera |
| Japanese
Snowball |
Viburnum
plicatum |
| Jasmine |
Jasminum |
| Lilac |
Syringa |
| Purple
Leaf Flw. Plum |
Prunus |
| Potato
Vine |
Solanum |
| Primrose
Jasmine |
J.
primulinum |
| *
Red Bud |
Cercis |
| Rhaphiolepis |
Rhaphiolepis |
| Rhododendron |
Rhododendron |
| Saucer
Magnolia |
Magnolia
soulangeana
(Tulip Tree) |
|
Spiraea |
Spiraea |
| Tea
Tree |
Leptospermum |
| Trumpetvine,
Lavender |
Clytostoma |
| Weigela |
Weigela |
| Wild
Lilac |
Ceanothus |
| Wisteria |
Wisteria |
|
| |
|
|
|
| |
| There
are many products
available for testing
your soil. You can
test for Ph alone,
for Nitrogen, Phosphorous
and Potash and even
for moisture and light.
Ask our Nursery staff
to show you our selection.
For
optimum gardening
success, have your
soil analyzed by
a certified laboratory
to determine nutrient
needs. We recommend
the services of
Monarch Laboratory,
Inc. in Chico, CA.
They will be glad
to send you their
price list and soil
sample requirements. |
|
|
| |
|
| |
Yarrow
Speeds Compost Decomposition
|
| |
| Achillea
millefolium
(Yarrow/Milfoil) has
many wonderful properties.
Yarrows root
secretions will activate
the disease resistance
of nearby plants,
and it is known to
intensify the medicinal
actions of other herbs.
Its medicinal
and cosmetic properties
are numerous and can
be found in a variety
of herb books. The
decorative flower
heads come in many
colors and hold their
color when dried,
making Yarrow an excellent
plant for use in wreaths
and dried flower arrangements.
Perhaps
the most interesting
attribute of yarrow
is its ability to
speed decomposition
in raw compost.
According to Lesley
Bremness, author
of The Complete
Book of Herbs, one
small leaf (of yarrow)
will speed decomposition
of a wheelbarrow
full of raw compost. |
| |
A
Simple Decoy
to keep Birds
away from
your tomatoes |
| |
Fool
birds by hanging
red Christmas
tree balls amongst
your tomatoes.
One peck at
the decoys and
the birds will
leave the real
tomatoes alone
for a while.
(
We havent
tried this
yet, but it
sure sounds
like an interesting
idea.... ) |
| |
| |
|
National
Wildlife Week |
| |
| Begun
in 1938 by the
National Wildlife
Federation (NWF),
this celebratory
week encourages
children and
adults to learn
and experience
nature, starting
in their own
communities.
Gardens can
provide the
perfect environment
to provide sustenance
for most of
the wildlife
frequenting
our backyards.
According to
the NWF, wildlife
have four basic
habitat requirements:
Food.
Flowers, shrubs
and trees
provide seeds,
berries, leaves,
buds and nectar,
all of which
feed birds,
butterflies
and other
insects, and
small mammals.
Native plants
are preferred
by wildlife
and require
less care.
Water.
A small pond
or birdbath
provides a
home for fish
and drink
for birds.
Ponds attract
other animals,
such as frogs
and salamanders,
and birdbaths
placed low
to the ground
will draw
squirrels,
chipmunks
and other
small mammals.
Shelter.
Shrubs and
trees offer
homes for
birds and
food for deer.
Tall grasses
are home to
grasshoppers,
garter snakes
and some ground-nesting
birds.
Places
to Raise Young.
Butterflies
require special
plants for
laying their
eggs, frogs
and toads
lay eggs only
in shallow
water. Birds
nest in birdhouses
as well as
shrubs and
trees.
Our
staff can
help you select
plants and
other products
to make
your garden
more wildlife
friendly.
|
|
|
The
Most Attractive
Nectar Plants
for Attracting
Butterflies
and Moths
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Butterfly Bush |
Buddleia davidii |
| Globe Amaranth |
Gomphrena globosa |
| Brazilian Verbena |
Verbena bonariensis |
| Marigolds |
Tagetes species |
| Oregano (Wild Marjoram) |
Origanum vulgare |
| White Clover |
Trifolium repens |
| Lantana |
Lantana camara |
| Salvia Blue
Bedder (Texas Violet) |
Salvia faranacea |
| Zinnia |
Zinnia species |
| Garlic Chives (Chinese
Chives) |
Allium tuberosum |
| Red Clover |
Trifolium pratense |
| Privet (Common Privet) |
Ligustrum vulgare |
| Heliotrope Marine
(Common Heliotrope) |
Heliotropium arborescens |
| Bloodflower |
Asclepias curassavica |
| Mexican Sunflower |
Tithonia rotundifolia |
| Sedum (Autumn Joy) |
Sedum spectabile |
| Common Sage |
Salvia officinalis |
| Cosmos Sensation |
Cosmos species |
| Glossy Abelia |
Abelia grandiflora |
| Oriental Lily |
Lilium speciosum |
| Verbena |
Verbena tenera |
| Ground Ivy |
Glechoma hederacea |
| Mint |
Mentha species |
| Dames Rocket |
Hesperis matronalis |
| Common Dandelion |
Taraxacum officinale |
| Lavender |
Lavandula species |
| Catnip |
Nepeta cataria |
| Common Tansy |
Tanacetum vulgare |
| Creeping Wood Sorrel |
Oxalis corniculata |
| Daylily |
Hemerocallis hybrida |
| Red Giant Mustard |
Brassica juncea
var. rugusa |
| |
|
|
Other Native Nectar
Plants for Attracting Butterflies and
Moths |
|
| Late-flowering
Boneset |
Eupatorium
serotinum |
| Mistflower
(Wild Ageratum) |
Eupatorium
coelestinum |
| Indian Hemp
(Dogbane) |
|
| New England
Aster |
Aster novae-angliae |
| Common Milkweed |
Asclepias syriaca |
| Heath Aster |
Aster pilosus |
| Purple Coneflower |
Echinacea purpurea |
| Black-eyed
Susan |
Rudbeckia
hirta |
| Great Blue
Lobelia (Blue Cardinal Flower) |
Lobelia siphilitica |
| Joe-Pye Weed |
Eupatorium
purpureum |
| Blazing Star
(Gayfeather) |
Liatris spicata |
| Sweet Pepperbush
(Summersweet) |
Clethra alnifolia |
| Butterfly
Weed |
Asclepias
tuberosa |
| New York Ironweed |
Vernonia noveboracensis |
| Daisy Fleabane |
Erigeron annuus |
| Smooth Aster |
Aster laevis |
| Small White
Aster |
Aster vimineus |
| Wild Bergamot |
Monarda fistulosa |
| Swamp Milkweed |
Asclepias
incarnata |
| Stiff Goldenrod |
Solidago rigida |
| Wild Blue Phlox
(Sweet William) |
Phlox divaricata |
| |
|
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| For
Specific Types of Butterflies: |
|
| * |
To attract swallowtails,
plant Butterfly Bush, Common Milkweed,
Joe-Pye Weed (Eupatorium purpureum),
Oregano, and Oriental Lilies. |
| * |
To attract hairstreaks,
try Garlic Chives (Allium tuberosum),
Dogbane (Apocynum cannabinum), Heath
Aster and Late-flowering Boneset. |
| * |
For skippers, plant Globe
Amaranth, Brazilian Verbena, Butterfly
Bush and Mist Flower. |
| * |
Plants that caterpillars
eat: Common Lambsquarters (Chenopodium
album), milkweeds, asters, parsley,
clover, and Common Blue Violets (Viola
papilionacea). |
| |
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|
In 1748, Swedish botanist Carolus
Linnaeus planted the flower clock
he developed.
Want to try it? The following is a
list of popular plants whose blossoms
open and close at specific hours.
Plant the flowers in order around
the outside of a circle and when they
bloom you have a flower clock.
|
|
5:00
- 6:00 am |
Morning Glories
and Wild Roses |
|
|
7:00 -
8:00 am |
Dandelions |
|
|
8:00 -
9:00 am |
African Daisies |
|
|
9:00 -
10:00 am |
Gentians |
|
|
10:00
- 11:00 am |
California Poppies
|
|
|
Noon |
Goatsbeard opens, Morning
Glories close |
|
|
4:00 pm |
Four Oclocks open
|
|
|
4:00 -
5:00 pm |
California Poppies close
|
|
|
6:00 pm |
Evening Primroses and
Moonflowers open |
|
|
8:00 -
9:00 pm |
Daylilies and Dandelions
close |
|
|
9:00 -
10:00 pm |
Flowering Tobacco opens
|
|
|
10:00
pm - 2:00 am |
Night-Blooming Cereus
opens |
|
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|
Dont
be Slimed by Snails and Slugs |
| Due to the long,
wet spring season, snails and slugs
have been especially rampant this year,
grazing their way through multitudes
of broad-leafed plants throughout the
garden. They especially enjoy Hostas,
but are very happy feasting on any plants
with nice, cool foliage and succulent
leaves to munch. There
are many products to help control
these voracious garden destroyers.
Products we have found to be most
effective include:
Sluggo ®
Kills
snails & slugs. Use on fruit,
vegetables, berries, ornamentals,
lawns, and in greenhouses. Safe
to use around pets & wildlife.
Seven-5 ®
Kills
over 65 insects, including Japanese
beetles, cabbage worms, ticks and
ants. Use on vegetables, fruit
trees, ornamentals, and lawns. Safe
to use as flea and tick repellent
on pets and wildlife.
Pest Fighter
®
Snail,
slug & insect meal. Kills snails,
slugs, ants, earwigs, grasshoppers,
crickets, sowbugs, cutworms, armyworms,
and millipedes. Remains effective
after rain or sprinkling. Master
Nursery product.
Quick-Kill Mosquito
Bits ® and Mosquito
Dunks ®
Biological
mosquito controls that kill mosquito
larvae within 24 hours. Active ingredient:
Bacillus thuringiensis. Place in any
standing water, including water gardens.
With all
insecticides, it is extremely important
to follow manufacturers directions
carefully.
|
| |
|
Organic Methods:
It is also possible
to lower the population of snails, slug
and other destructive critters without
the use of chemicals, though this involves
more diligence on the part of the gardener.
Of course, one can always spend time collecting
snails in the dark, but the following
list of products and ideas may be helpful
in eliminating plant-eating animals:
Cocoa Mulch
An
organic fertilizer and soil conditioner
made from cocoa bean hulls. Its crunchy
texture deters slugs, snails and
most cats. As a top dressing, Cocoa Mulch
is easy to spread, light to handle, retains
moisture and suppresses weeds. When mixed
into the soil, Cocoa Mulch breaks
up heavy clay soils and adds humus to
light sandy soils.
Diatomaceous
Earth
Finely
ground natural fossil shells. Act as a
repellent for snails, slugs and other
creatures, as they are reluctant
to cross the powder. In addition, the
unique soil conditioning properties of
Diatomaceous Earths aid in
loosening soil and absorb up to two and
a half times its weight in water for better
soil moisture retention.
Snail &
Slug Copper Barrier Tape
A
non-invasive product, this inch-wide copper
tape has a natural electric charge which
repels snails and slugs. For trees,
planters, patio furniture, pet dishes,
raised flower and garden beds. Copper
Barrier Tape comes with adhesive backing
to adhere to tree trunks and edging
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