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New
Heights for Your Garden
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Written by George
Winter and Ellen Brammer |
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If your
landscape is feeling flat and you
are ready for a change, you might
try giving your garden a vertical
lift. The
possibilities are endless - from a
simple, inexpensive trellis to the
all out drama of a vine covered pergola
or a tree-lined alley. With some careful
thought you can reflect your own sense
of style to your vertical garden.
Tools for adding vertical dimension
include statuary, pottery, arbors,
and lattice trellises. Trees, vines,
and perennials can compliment or even
substitute the structural height.
Wrought iron is very popular right
now. There is a wide variety to choose,
from the small and simple obelisk
to full size gazebos.
There are many simple ways to “raise”
some interest in your garden. Invert
an empty pot and place another container
on top, planted with low growing plants
for filler, and some ground cover
that trails down the sides. These
plantings are very eye catching and
can make a great focal point in front
of a shrub that is no longer blooming.
Or take the upward route with a vining
Jasmine on a trellis. For some extra
pizzazz, try growing white, and purple
blooming clematis up the same trellis.
If you already have a fence, bring
the eye up with a rambling rose.
An arbor can make a shady resting
point or it can add subtle direction
to the location you wish to lead the
eye. If the arbor is a focal point,
then experiment with the upright verticals
on both sides. Container gardens can
be very effective in this situation
because plants or entire pots can
be changed with the seasons. Or, the
arbor can take your eye beyond, leading
you to a beautiful fountain, outdoor
room, or any favored spot in your
landscape.
Fountains are an exciting way to bring
height to your garden and a lift to
your spirits. The sound of water should
come in actions such as sprays or
spills. Either a quiet trickle or
a dramatic splash has a way of making
you feel far away from your daily
responsibilities. Your local garden
center should have fountains for any
landscape. Wall fountains, fountainettes,
or bird baths are effective in smaller
gardens.
If you have an existing pond it is
easy to add vertical lift with add
on visual features. Raise your water
garden to eye level with a bubbling
pot or a piece of statuary. Bubble
fountain kits are readily available
at your local garden center and easy
to install. Statuary broadens your
choices from playful turtles, to a
classic angel, or a big-bellied Buddha.
If your garden space is more limited,
a few water pots of different sizes
and shape will also lift the eye.
No matter what you decide just remember,
your garden is an expression of your
artistic side and although it may
be a little work, it should always
be a lot of fun. Enjoy. |
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Recommended
Lawn Care Products |
Weed
Control |
| GreenLight
Crab Grass Preventer |
| Pre and early
post-emergent crabgrass preventer.
Kills other broadleaf and grassy
weeds. |
| |
| Master
Nursery Broadleaf DSO Weed Control
Spray |
| Broadleaf DSO
Weed Control Spray contains
trimec and will control over
200 broadleaf weeds including
dandelions, spurge, and oxalis.
It will not harm blade grass
lawns and starts working overnight. |
| |
| Monterey
Crab & Spurge Preventer2 |
| Pre-emergence
herbicide with a 12.7% active
ingredient. Controls such weeds
as crabgrass, foxtails, oxalis,
ryegrass and many more. Can
be used on both warm season
and cool season turf. After
applying Crab & Spurge Preventer,
watering activates activity
in the soil. |
| |
| Monterey
Weed-Hoe |
| Postemergence,
selective grass killer for warm
and cool season turf. Contains
48.3% active ingredient, higher
than most other products on
the market! Controls crabgrass,
goosegrass, dutgrass, Dallisgrass. |
| |
| Monterey
Nutgrass 'Nihilator |
| Controls yellow
Nutgrass in turf and ornamentals.
Kills the nutlet as well as
the top of weed. May be used
on both cool and warm season
turfgrass. Non-staining, economical
control of yellow Nutgrass infestation. |
| |
| Turflon™
Ester |
| Postemergence
herbicide for control of bermudagrass,
kikuyugrass and broadleaf weeds
in cool season grass. Contains
61.6% active ingredient. One
pint covers up to 32,000 sq.
ft. Controls Oxalis, Clover
and other broadleaf weeds. |
| |
| Weed
Whacker Jet Spray |
| Easy to use
aerosol formulation. Controls
spurge, oxalis, dandelion and
other broadleaf weeds. Contains
a foam marker to show areas
that have been sprayed. Excellent
for spot treatment of problem
turf areas. The easy way to
control broadleaf weeds. |
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| *Herbicide
Helper (Oil Concentrate) |
A spreader
penetrant to be used with herbicides
to make them work better and
faster
Use with Grass Getter (formerly
Poast®), Nutgrass 'Nihilator
and other herbicides for better
control
Widely used in herbicidal sprays
Available in Pint |
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Fertilizers |
Master
Nursery Master Green™
Lawn Food |
| A pelleted
blend lawn food with ammoniacal
and urea nitrogen, phosphorous,
potassium. Produces a rapid
response (usually in 7 days). |
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| Master
Nursery Master Green[tm] Weed
& Feed |
| The same fertilizer
as Master Green Lawn Food. Trimec
is added to control 35 broad
leaf weeds. Designed for grass
lawns only. |
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| Master
Nursery Formula 49 |
| A mild, organic
based, all purpose fertilizer
for year round use. |
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Pest
and Insect Control |
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| Bayer
Advanced Season Long Grub Control
|
| Defends against
grubs. Helps turf recover. Apply
anytime spring through summer.
Also kills molecrickets and
European cranefly larvae. |
| |
| Greenlight
Lawn and Garden Spray |
| 100% organic.
Multi-Insect killer and repellant. |
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| Greenlight
Spinosad Lawn and Garden |
| Ready to spray.
Controls beatles, worms, fleas,
leafminers, thrips, and spidermites. |
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| MoleMax |
| Mole and vole
repellent. Controls moles, gophers,
voles, skunk, and rabbits without
killing. |
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| Safer
Insectcidal Soap |
| Controls aphids,
mealy bugs, mites, and whitefly. |
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Disease |
Bayer
Advanced Fungus Control for
Lawns |
| Cures and prevents
common lawn disease, such as
brown patch, dollar spot, red
thread and rust. One application
protects up to 2 months. |
| |
| Greenlight
Fung Away Systemic Lawn Fungicide
Spray |
For control
of powdery mildew, leaf blight
spots, rusts and brown patch.
Spectracide Immunox MP Fungicide.
Cures and prevents all major
lawn disease. Once dried, it
can’t be washed off by
rain. |
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| Spectracide
Immunox Multi Purpose Fungicide |
| Cures and prevent
all major lawn disease. Once
dried, it can’t be washed
off by rain. |
| |
|
Drought
Tolerant Plants |
Many of the plants
listed below are carried by Wyntour
Gardens.
^ These plants are recommended as
part of a Firesafe Landscape. |
Elements
of Shade Gardening
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If you don’t want to
be a slave to your garden this summer, a shade
garden could be the answer. When the temperature
rises and the sun beats down hot and heavy,
there is nothing more refreshing than a cool,
moist patch where Ferns thrive along with
Hostas, Impatiens and Astilbe. You can improve
your shade climate and cut back on your work
if you understand the fundamentals of shade
gardening. Though light is an important factor
in shade gardening, there are other elements
you should also consider before you begin.
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| It is important to
understand the different types of shade for
successful plant choices. Light
shade is the brightest shade
and supports the requirements of the most
plants. Light shade areas are the easiest
to design and work with. Light shade is
the dappled shade you will find under a
tree canopy and allows for 4-6 hours of
sunlight, preferably with afternoon shade.
Many sun-loving plants will take light shade
in our area. (See Regional Considerations
below).
Part
shade occurs when you have
a 4-6 hour interruption from direct sun.
Plants that do well in light shade or part
shade include Astilbe, Fox Glove, and Hydrangea.
Full shade is a garden area
that receives no direct sun. Full shade
may be created by a dense, canopy of trees
or by buildings, such as the north side
of your house.
Plants
that do well in full shade include Foam
Flower, Impatiens, and Japanese aucuba.
Just as soon as you get
your microclimates all figured out, the
exposure changes with the seasons. Full
sun in summer changes to medium shade in
spring and fall. Trees grow older and denser,
intensifying the shade they provide. It
is important to remain flexible. Plant bulbs
that will bloom in spring before the trees
leaf out overhead. Light summer pruning
on maturing shade trees will lighten the
garden beneath.
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Regional
Considerations |
| In an area as
hot as Shasta County it is essential to understand
that if a plant requirement calls for part
shade this means it must
have protection from the scorching afternoon
sun. Even plants that normally
take full sun in other areas of California
will need protection from the afternoon sun
here.
Competition
Plants growing beneath a tree in dappled
shade will have to compete with the roots
of the tree for water and nutrients, so
your shade garden might dry out more quickly
than in gardens planted in sunny locations.
The shallower rooted the tree, the more
competition, so adjust your watering appropriately.
Organic material should not be dug into
the soil at the risk of harming the tree’s
surface roots. Organic material in the form
of mulch that blankets the surface of your
garden will help hold moisture, and will
slowly break down to provide nutrients to
your plants. Mulching will also discourage
weeds and give your garden a natural feel,
as leaves drop to mulch the earth in nature
as well.
Plants that can hold their own, amongst
the tree roots include Aster,
Bergenia,
and Redbud.
Wyntour Gardens carries a great line of
Master Nursery
brand Fertilizers that will provide
your shade garden with the extra nutrients
it will need. Master
Nursery Camellia Azalea Gardenia Food 4-8-5
is a premium food for shade and acid loving
plants. Master
Nursery Rose and Flower Food for
plants that need alkaline soil. Our expert
nursery staff can help advise you on the
best products to use in your particular
situation.
Soil
pH
It is a common misconception that all shade
plants like acid soil. It is true that woodland
plants growing under conifers thrive underneath
a blanket of decomposing, acidic leaves.
Forests grow in areas of high rainfall which
washes away nutrients that make the soil
alkaline. In the western states, where the
average rainfall is less than 30 inches
a year, minerals build near the roots of
plants making the soil alkaline. So plants
that evolved in a rainy climate generally
prefer acid soil, and plants that evolved
in a dry climate generally prefer neutral
soil. But you do not have to trace the history
of your plants and your soil to understand
their soil requirements.
Wyntour Gardens carries Rapitest
Soil Test Kits which are a quick
and easy way to determine your soil type.
Then check the labels, a plant dictionary,
or consult our excellent staff to understand
a plant’s requirement before
you buy it. If you don’t want to be
a slave to your garden you could choose
all alkaline loving plants for neutral soils
or plant acid loving plants under established
conifers. As long as the plants won’t
get too big you can annually adjust the
soil around each plant to its pH needs and
have a combination of both acid and alkaline
loving plants. Wyntour Gardens carries EB
Stone pH Adjustor Plus which will
increase acidity to depth of 6 inches. Since
we live in the west, it is unlikely that
you would need to decrease the acidity of
your soil.
Plants that do well in neutral soils include
Hosta,
Lamium,
and Lilyturf.
Here at Wyntour Gardens we have a large
shade area with a great variety of beautiful
shade loving plants. Our knowledgeable staff
can help you choose the correct plants for
your shady microclimates.
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| While
most people think of an in-ground pond when
they think of water gardens, it is quite easy
and fun to create a beautiful water garden
in a container. Containers for water gardens
can be as diverse as one’s imagination
– the only requirement is that the container
holds water. A soup urn, wine barrel, or an
old kitchen sink can make a great container.
With the fast growing popularity of aquatic
gardening you can now find a great selection
of ceramic containers with no drainage holes,
sealed inside and out, specifically designed
for water gardens. These containers come in
a variety of sizes and gorgeous colors that
will make creating your water garden simple
and exciting. When
making your decision on what kind of container
to use there are some factors you should
consider. A small, one gallon container
will hold one special plant. A ten to twenty
gallon container can support a whole ecosystem.
If you would like to add fish, your container
should hold at least ten gallons of water
and be at least twelve inches deep. Some
containers need liners, epoxy, or special
sealers to fill holes, or protect against
chemical reactions, such as a leaching of
tannic acid. You may wish to add a spouting
ornament, or a small waterfall, for the
relaxing effect of running water. A small
submersible pump which would move 60-90
gallons per hour (GPH) would be sufficient
for this feature. Miniature underwater lights
are also available for use with or without
a pump.
Different water plants
have different preferences for planting
depth. Research the needs of the plants
you are using. If your water container is
deep, you may need shelves to bring the
crowns of the plants to the proper level.
Bricks work well, especially cinderblocks
which have hollow cores that will prevent
loss of water volume. You can also use overturned
pots or flat rocks. You may even find floating
pots at specialty nurseries.
Once you have selected
and prepared your container, you should
choose the site before you construct your
garden. Because water weighs eight pounds
per gallon, your garden will be hard to
move once assembled. Do not put the container
garden directly on a deck. Raise your container
up on pot feet or bricks, creating space
under the pot so condensation and leakage
won’t ruin surfaces. Most aquatic
plants need four to six hours of sun each
day. Here in the North Valley, it is best
to provide your garden with afternoon shade
to keep the water from getting too warm
and your plants from burning. You may also
want to choose a spot where it will reflect
a special area of your garden, such as a
blooming plant, or a special piece of statuary.
The plants you choose for
your tub garden will depend on its size
and depth. Large, tall plants can unbalance
a planting both visually and physically.
Floating and submerged plants will do well
in a container, while bog plants may be
overly aggressive. Fifty to sixty percent
of the water surface should be covered with
plant material. Many local garden centers
are now carrying aquatic plants and it is
easier than ever to find the most popular
plants, including water irises, floating
hearts, giant pennywort and horsetail rush.
Water lilies (Nymphaea), both hardy and
tropical, are available in a wide range
of color and sizes. Lotus (Nelumbo) is another
popular floater, prized for its beauty,
fragrance and interesting seed pods. It
is important to use a soil specifically
formulated for aquatic plants, like Schultz
Aquatic Plant Soil™. Do not use standard
potting soil mix meant for ground-loving
plants. If your water supply is treated
with chlorine, let it sit for one to two
days before planting, as the chlorine will
evaporate.
Once your water garden
is planted, keep an eye on the water level
and replace what has evaporated. Control
algae by physically removing it or use a
water clarifier made for aquatic gardens.
Use timed-release fertilizer like Agriform®
Tabs or Osmocote®, following the directions
on the package. Most water plants are evergreen,
and will survive the winter in above freezing
temperatures, though they will become dormant
when the cold weather hits. During the winter,
keep plants cleaned up by removing dead
leaves, in spring they will begin to grow
again. Spring is the time to divide plants
and make new plantings or share them with
friends. There are many books and web-sites
available about water gardening, and you
can also consult your local garden center
or aquatic garden specialist for more information.
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| Peonies
are hardy perennial plants which bloom in
May and June.
Peonies have been cultivated
in gardens since the time of Pliny the Elder,
the Roman naturalist who perished in the
destruction of Pompeii. Peony comes from
the word meaning the god of healing. History
records gardeners growing many varieties
in London as long ago as 1580. In 1824,
Lemoine, a French gardener of scholarly
reputation, made important hybrid crosses
in peonies. In the US, the single white
flowered peony was exhibited by the New
York Horticultural Society in 1826.
There are two basic types
of peonies: herbaceous and tree peonies.
Herbaceous peonies have fleshy clubs of
roots, with leaves and flowers sprouting
out from the crowns. Herbaceous peonies
die back to the ground in the fall. They
are derived from the Siberian and European
forms. Tree peonies are actually shrubs
which produce flowers and leaves on permanent
woody branches growing up to eight feet
tall.
All are extremely long-lived
perennial plants of significant size with
spectacular, large flowers which are great
for cutting. Some are wonderfully fragrant,
with a fragrance similar to old-fashioned
roses. Flower colors include white, cream,
yellows, coral, pinks, purple, rose, reds
(some very deep) and black. Flowers are
singles, semi-doubles & doubles. Support
large flowers with peony rings.
Peonies have a relatively
short bloom period - no one kind blooms
for more than one week. To extend the blooming
period, plant early, mid-season and late
flowering cultivars. Peonies can withstand
full sun and summer heat, though light shade
will prolong the flowering period in hot
areas.
Herbaceous peonies can be
planted in early spring or in fall. Peonies
need winter chill for good springtime bloom.
Plant on a northern slope & do not mulch
in winter. Peonies are able to withstand
summer heat, but the flowers dont
last well in warm springtime weather.
Choose early blooming varieties, provide
some afternoon shade & adequate water.
Peonies require site preparation,
but will return with outstandingly beautiful
flowers for a lifetime. They need deep,
rich soil with good drainage - the roots
will quickly rot in poorly drained soil.
Consider planting peonies
in raised beds. Ideally, the site should
be deeply dug (12-20 inches). Work in lots
of well-rotted manure or compost & high-phosphorus
fertilizer.
Allow the soil to settle before planting.
Give each peony three feet of space. Peonies
prefer slightly alkaline soil - pH 6.0 to
7.0. Add lime to excessively acid soil.
Peonies do best when planted
in Fall for Spring bloom. Avoid planting
in a border facing east, as the flower buds
may be damaged by the early morning sun,
if it happens to shine on them after a frosty
night. Borders facing south, southwest or
west are best.
Peonies have fleshy roots suggesting long
sweet potatoes joined together at one end.
Soak roots in water just prior to planting,
to give them a good drink. Set roots carefully
as planting too deep prevents flowering.
Plant with rose-colored eyes facing up,
two inches deep in colder climates, one
inch deep in warmer regions.
Mulch is helpful in hot
regions. Be sure to allow for depth of mulch
when planting.
Fertilize the plants with Master Nursery
brand Multi Purpose Fertilizer (16-16-16),
or any multi-purpose fertilizer, after the
flowering period. Peonies are unlikely to
bloom the first year, but should bloom annually
after that. They can be left undisturbed
for many years, and will bloom satisfactorily
for 20 years or more.
There is usually no need
to divide herbaceous peonies, except to
increase stock. Dig the clumps in early
fall and hose off any soil. Divide into
sections using a sharp knife, making sure
each section has three to five eyes. Plant
immediately so plants have time to put down
roots before freezing weather. Herbaceous
peonies may take 1-2 years to establish
before blooming.
For cut flowers, cut just
as buds begin to open. Leave at least three
leaves on each stem, preserving leaf growth
to nourish the plant for the following year.
Remove less than half the blossoms from
any clump. Deadhead to prevent seed formation.
Remove seed pods if they develop.
Peonies can develop the
fungal disease botrytis, especially if weather
is cool and humid.
Young buds will blacken and wither, fuzzy
brown spots develop on the flowers and leaves,
and the stems wilt and collapse. Botrytis
can be prevented by taking the following
measures:
-
Provide good air circulation
- Dispose of diseased portions
of plant and fallen leaves immediately
- Cut stems back to soil
level in fall
- Spray with copper fungicide
in spring, as new growth emerges |
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| The
American Peony Society publishes the following
tips for reasons why peonies do not bloom: |
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Plants too young. |
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Planted
too deep. Eyes should be no more than
2-3 inches below soil surface. |
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Large clumps planted without first
being divided. |
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Buds
killed by late frost or waterlogged
from constant rain. |
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Buds
killed by disease or attacked by thrips.
Use an appropriate spray. |
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Roots
diseased. Destroy plants. |
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Plants
undernourished. Use a high-phosphate
fertilizer such as 5-10-5. |
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Ground
too dry. Water thoroughly. |
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Excessive
hot weather. Late-blooming full doubles
are especially susceptible. |
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Planted
too close to trees and shrubs, or
crowded by other plants. |
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Too
much shade, making plants tall and
leafy. |
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Plants
undermined by gophers or moles. |
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SHADE
TREES FOR SHASTA COUNTY |
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Things to Consider
When Selecting Shade Trees:
|
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What
is the ultimate size tree you would
like. |
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What
are the growth specifications of the
trees you are considering?
a. Is the
location near foundation, driveway,
sidewalk septic leach fields, etc.?
b. Does the
tree have a shallow or deep root structure?
|
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Larger,
established trees (30 gal or larger)
will fill out the fastest. |
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Trees
with the largest leaves will give
the heaviest shade. |
| |
Some
trees, like maple, fruitless mulberry
and gingko lose all their leaves at
once making clean up easier.
|
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Moderately
growing trees generally have deeper
root systems than fast growing trees.
|
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|
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| Fast
Growing Trees |
| Will
grow to 35 - 70 feet tall: |
|
| Deciduous |
|
| Acer
saccharinum |
Celebration
Maple |
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Silver
Maple |
| Catalpa
speciosa |
Catalpa |
| Pawlonia
|
Empress
Tree |
| Celtis
occidentalis |
Common
Hackberry |
| Celtis
sinensis |
Chinese
Hackberry |
| Liquidambar
|
Liquid
Ambar, Sweet Gum |
| Liriodendron
tulipifera |
Tulip
Tree |
| Morus
alba Stribling |
Fruitless
Mulberry |
| Nyssa
sylvatica |
Sour
Gum, Black Tupelo |
| Platanus
acerifolia |
Sycamore,
London Plane Tree |
| Robinia
x ambigua |
Purple
Robe Locust |
| Salix
babylonica |
Weeping Willow |
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|
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| Evergreen |
|
| Cedrus deodara
|
Deodar Cedar |
| Sequoia sempervirens
|
Redwood |
| Thuja Green
Giant |
Western Red Cedar
Green Giant |
| |
|
|
| Will
grow to 20 - 35 feet tall: |
|
| Acer
tataricum ginnala |
Amur Maple |
| x Chitalpa
tashkentensis Pink Dawn
|
Chitalpa Pink Dawn |
| Chilopsis
linearis Burgundy |
Desert Willow Burgundy |
| Chionanthus
retusus |
Chinese Fringe Tree |
| Fraxinus
americana |
Autumn Purple Ash |
| Fraxinus
oxycarpa |
Raywood Ash |
| Pyrus
callyreana |
Flowering Pear, Aristocrat
Flowering Pear |
| Prunus
cerasifera |
Flowering Plum |
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|
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|
|
| Moderate
Growing Shade Trees
|
| Acer buergeranum |
Trident Maple |
| Acer x freemanii Autumn
Fantasy |
Autumn Fantasy Maple |
| Acer x freemanii Jeffers
red |
Autumn Blaze Maple |
| Acer rubrum Autumn
Flame |
Autumn Flame Maple |
| Acer rubrum October
Glory |
October Glory Maple |
| Acer rubrum Red
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