Summer
 
New Heights for Your Garden
Written by George Winter and Ellen Brammer
 
If your landscape is feeling flat and you are ready for a change, you might try giving your garden a vertical lift. The possibilities are endless - from a simple, inexpensive trellis to the all out drama of a vine covered pergola or a tree-lined alley. With some careful thought you can reflect your own sense of style to your vertical garden.
Tools for adding vertical dimension include statuary, pottery, arbors, and lattice trellises. Trees, vines, and perennials can compliment or even substitute the structural height. Wrought iron is very popular right now. There is a wide variety to choose, from the small and simple obelisk to full size gazebos.
There are many simple ways to “raise” some interest in your garden. Invert an empty pot and place another container on top, planted with low growing plants for filler, and some ground cover that trails down the sides. These plantings are very eye catching and can make a great focal point in front of a shrub that is no longer blooming. Or take the upward route with a vining Jasmine on a trellis. For some extra pizzazz, try growing white, and purple blooming clematis up the same trellis. If you already have a fence, bring the eye up with a rambling rose.
An arbor can make a shady resting point or it can add subtle direction to the location you wish to lead the eye. If the arbor is a focal point, then experiment with the upright verticals on both sides. Container gardens can be very effective in this situation because plants or entire pots can be changed with the seasons. Or, the arbor can take your eye beyond, leading you to a beautiful fountain, outdoor room, or any favored spot in your landscape.
Fountains are an exciting way to bring height to your garden and a lift to your spirits. The sound of water should come in actions such as sprays or spills. Either a quiet trickle or a dramatic splash has a way of making you feel far away from your daily responsibilities. Your local garden center should have fountains for any landscape. Wall fountains, fountainettes, or bird baths are effective in smaller gardens.
If you have an existing pond it is easy to add vertical lift with add on visual features. Raise your water garden to eye level with a bubbling pot or a piece of statuary. Bubble fountain kits are readily available at your local garden center and easy to install. Statuary broadens your choices from playful turtles, to a classic angel, or a big-bellied Buddha. If your garden space is more limited, a few water pots of different sizes and shape will also lift the eye.
No matter what you decide just remember, your garden is an expression of your artistic side and although it may be a little work, it should always be a lot of fun. Enjoy.
 
Recommended Lawn Care Products
Weed Control
GreenLight Crab Grass Preventer
Pre and early post-emergent crabgrass preventer. Kills other broadleaf and grassy weeds.
 
Master Nursery Broadleaf DSO Weed Control Spray
Broadleaf DSO Weed Control Spray contains trimec and will control over 200 broadleaf weeds including dandelions, spurge, and oxalis. It will not harm blade grass lawns and starts working overnight.
 
Monterey Crab & Spurge Preventer2
Pre-emergence herbicide with a 12.7% active ingredient. Controls such weeds as crabgrass, foxtails, oxalis, ryegrass and many more. Can be used on both warm season and cool season turf. After applying Crab & Spurge Preventer, watering activates activity in the soil.
 
Monterey Weed-Hoe
Postemergence, selective grass killer for warm and cool season turf. Contains 48.3% active ingredient, higher than most other products on the market! Controls crabgrass, goosegrass, dutgrass, Dallisgrass.
 
Monterey Nutgrass 'Nihilator
Controls yellow Nutgrass in turf and ornamentals. Kills the nutlet as well as the top of weed. May be used on both cool and warm season turfgrass. Non-staining, economical control of yellow Nutgrass infestation.
 
Turflon™ Ester
Postemergence herbicide for control of bermudagrass, kikuyugrass and broadleaf weeds in cool season grass. Contains 61.6% active ingredient. One pint covers up to 32,000 sq. ft. Controls Oxalis, Clover and other broadleaf weeds.
 
Weed Whacker Jet Spray
Easy to use aerosol formulation. Controls spurge, oxalis, dandelion and other broadleaf weeds. Contains a foam marker to show areas that have been sprayed. Excellent for spot treatment of problem turf areas. The easy way to control broadleaf weeds.
 
*Herbicide Helper (Oil Concentrate)
A spreader penetrant to be used with herbicides to make them work better and faster
Use with Grass Getter (formerly Poast®), Nutgrass 'Nihilator and other herbicides for better control
Widely used in herbicidal sprays
Available in Pint
 
Fertilizers

Master Nursery Master Green™ Lawn Food
A pelleted blend lawn food with ammoniacal and urea nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium. Produces a rapid response (usually in 7 days).
 
Master Nursery Master Green[tm] Weed & Feed
The same fertilizer as Master Green Lawn Food. Trimec is added to control 35 broad leaf weeds. Designed for grass lawns only.
 
Master Nursery Formula 49
A mild, organic based, all purpose fertilizer for year round use.
 
Pest and Insect Control
 
Bayer Advanced Season Long Grub Control
Defends against grubs. Helps turf recover. Apply anytime spring through summer. Also kills molecrickets and European cranefly larvae.
 
Greenlight Lawn and Garden Spray
100% organic. Multi-Insect killer and repellant.
 
Greenlight Spinosad Lawn and Garden
Ready to spray. Controls beatles, worms, fleas, leafminers, thrips, and spidermites.
 
MoleMax
Mole and vole repellent. Controls moles, gophers, voles, skunk, and rabbits without killing.
 
Safer Insectcidal Soap
Controls aphids, mealy bugs, mites, and whitefly.
 
Disease

Bayer Advanced Fungus Control for Lawns
Cures and prevents common lawn disease, such as brown patch, dollar spot, red thread and rust. One application protects up to 2 months.
 
Greenlight Fung Away Systemic Lawn Fungicide Spray
For control of powdery mildew, leaf blight spots, rusts and brown patch.
Spectracide Immunox MP Fungicide. Cures and prevents all major lawn disease. Once dried, it can’t be washed off by rain.
 
Spectracide Immunox Multi Purpose Fungicide
Cures and prevent all major lawn disease. Once dried, it can’t be washed off by rain.
 
Drought Tolerant Plants
Many of the plants listed below are carried by Wyntour Gardens.
^ These plants are recommended as part of a Firesafe Landscape.
     
     

Elements of Shade Gardening
If you don’t want to be a slave to your garden this summer, a shade garden could be the answer. When the temperature rises and the sun beats down hot and heavy, there is nothing more refreshing than a cool, moist patch where Ferns thrive along with Hostas, Impatiens and Astilbe. You can improve your shade climate and cut back on your work if you understand the fundamentals of shade gardening. Though light is an important factor in shade gardening, there are other elements you should also consider before you begin.
Light Considerations
It is important to understand the different types of shade for successful plant choices.

Light shade is the brightest shade and supports the requirements of the most plants. Light shade areas are the easiest to design and work with. Light shade is the dappled shade you will find under a tree canopy and allows for 4-6 hours of sunlight, preferably with afternoon shade. Many sun-loving plants will take light shade in our area. (See Regional Considerations below).

Part shade occurs when you have a 4-6 hour interruption from direct sun. Plants that do well in light shade or part shade include Astilbe, Fox Glove, and Hydrangea.



Full shade is a garden area that receives no direct sun. Full shade may be created by a dense, canopy of trees or by buildings, such as the north side of your house. Plants that do well in full shade include Foam Flower, Impatiens, and Japanese aucuba.

Just as soon as you get your microclimates all figured out, the exposure changes with the seasons. Full sun in summer changes to medium shade in spring and fall. Trees grow older and denser, intensifying the shade they provide. It is important to remain flexible. Plant bulbs that will bloom in spring before the trees leaf out overhead. Light summer pruning on maturing shade trees will lighten the garden beneath.
Regional Considerations
In an area as hot as Shasta County it is essential to understand that if a plant requirement calls for part shade this means it must have protection from the scorching afternoon sun. Even plants that normally take full sun in other areas of California will need protection from the afternoon sun here.

Competition
Plants growing beneath a tree in dappled shade will have to compete with the roots of the tree for water and nutrients, so your shade garden might dry out more quickly than in gardens planted in sunny locations. The shallower rooted the tree, the more competition, so adjust your watering appropriately. Organic material should not be dug into the soil at the risk of harming the tree’s surface roots. Organic material in the form of mulch that blankets the surface of your garden will help hold moisture, and will slowly break down to provide nutrients to your plants. Mulching will also discourage weeds and give your garden a natural feel, as leaves drop to mulch the earth in nature as well.

Plants that can hold their own, amongst the tree roots include Aster, Bergenia, and Redbud.

Wyntour Gardens carries a great line of Master Nursery brand Fertilizers that will provide your shade garden with the extra nutrients it will need. Master Nursery Camellia Azalea Gardenia Food 4-8-5 is a premium food for shade and acid loving plants. Master Nursery Rose and Flower Food for plants that need alkaline soil. Our expert nursery staff can help advise you on the best products to use in your particular situation.

Soil pH
It is a common misconception that all shade plants like acid soil. It is true that woodland plants growing under conifers thrive underneath a blanket of decomposing, acidic leaves. Forests grow in areas of high rainfall which washes away nutrients that make the soil alkaline. In the western states, where the average rainfall is less than 30 inches a year, minerals build near the roots of plants making the soil alkaline. So plants that evolved in a rainy climate generally prefer acid soil, and plants that evolved in a dry climate generally prefer neutral soil. But you do not have to trace the history of your plants and your soil to understand their soil requirements.

Wyntour Gardens carries Rapitest Soil Test Kits which are a quick and easy way to determine your soil type. Then check the labels, a plant dictionary, or consult our excellent staff to understand a plant’s requirement before you buy it. If you don’t want to be a slave to your garden you could choose all alkaline loving plants for neutral soils or plant acid loving plants under established conifers. As long as the plants won’t get too big you can annually adjust the soil around each plant to its pH needs and have a combination of both acid and alkaline loving plants. Wyntour Gardens carries EB Stone pH Adjustor Plus which will increase acidity to depth of 6 inches. Since we live in the west, it is unlikely that you would need to decrease the acidity of your soil.

Plants that do well in neutral soils include Hosta, Lamium, and Lilyturf.

Here at Wyntour Gardens we have a large shade area with a great variety of beautiful shade loving plants. Our knowledgeable staff can help you choose the correct plants for your shady microclimates.
Water Garden in a Tub
While most people think of an in-ground pond when they think of water gardens, it is quite easy and fun to create a beautiful water garden in a container. Containers for water gardens can be as diverse as one’s imagination – the only requirement is that the container holds water. A soup urn, wine barrel, or an old kitchen sink can make a great container. With the fast growing popularity of aquatic gardening you can now find a great selection of ceramic containers with no drainage holes, sealed inside and out, specifically designed for water gardens. These containers come in a variety of sizes and gorgeous colors that will make creating your water garden simple and exciting.

When making your decision on what kind of container to use there are some factors you should consider. A small, one gallon container will hold one special plant. A ten to twenty gallon container can support a whole ecosystem. If you would like to add fish, your container should hold at least ten gallons of water and be at least twelve inches deep. Some containers need liners, epoxy, or special sealers to fill holes, or protect against chemical reactions, such as a leaching of tannic acid. You may wish to add a spouting ornament, or a small waterfall, for the relaxing effect of running water. A small submersible pump which would move 60-90 gallons per hour (GPH) would be sufficient for this feature. Miniature underwater lights are also available for use with or without a pump.

Different water plants have different preferences for planting depth. Research the needs of the plants you are using. If your water container is deep, you may need shelves to bring the crowns of the plants to the proper level. Bricks work well, especially cinderblocks which have hollow cores that will prevent loss of water volume. You can also use overturned pots or flat rocks. You may even find floating pots at specialty nurseries.

Once you have selected and prepared your container, you should choose the site before you construct your garden. Because water weighs eight pounds per gallon, your garden will be hard to move once assembled. Do not put the container garden directly on a deck. Raise your container up on pot feet or bricks, creating space under the pot so condensation and leakage won’t ruin surfaces. Most aquatic plants need four to six hours of sun each day. Here in the North Valley, it is best to provide your garden with afternoon shade to keep the water from getting too warm and your plants from burning. You may also want to choose a spot where it will reflect a special area of your garden, such as a blooming plant, or a special piece of statuary.

The plants you choose for your tub garden will depend on its size and depth. Large, tall plants can unbalance a planting both visually and physically. Floating and submerged plants will do well in a container, while bog plants may be overly aggressive. Fifty to sixty percent of the water surface should be covered with plant material. Many local garden centers are now carrying aquatic plants and it is easier than ever to find the most popular plants, including water irises, floating hearts, giant pennywort and horsetail rush. Water lilies (Nymphaea), both hardy and tropical, are available in a wide range of color and sizes. Lotus (Nelumbo) is another popular floater, prized for its beauty, fragrance and interesting seed pods. It is important to use a soil specifically formulated for aquatic plants, like Schultz Aquatic Plant Soil™. Do not use standard potting soil mix meant for ground-loving plants. If your water supply is treated with chlorine, let it sit for one to two days before planting, as the chlorine will evaporate.

Once your water garden is planted, keep an eye on the water level and replace what has evaporated. Control algae by physically removing it or use a water clarifier made for aquatic gardens. Use timed-release fertilizer like Agriform® Tabs or Osmocote®, following the directions on the package. Most water plants are evergreen, and will survive the winter in above freezing temperatures, though they will become dormant when the cold weather hits. During the winter, keep plants cleaned up by removing dead leaves, in spring they will begin to grow again. Spring is the time to divide plants and make new plantings or share them with friends. There are many books and web-sites available about water gardening, and you can also consult your local garden center or aquatic garden specialist for more information.
The Beauty of Peonies

Peonies are hardy perennial plants which bloom in May and June.

Peonies have been cultivated in gardens since the time of Pliny the Elder, the Roman naturalist who perished in the destruction of Pompeii. Peony comes from the word meaning the god of healing. History records gardeners growing many varieties in London as long ago as 1580. In 1824, Lemoine, a French gardener of scholarly reputation, made important hybrid crosses in peonies. In the US, the single white flowered peony was exhibited by the New York Horticultural Society in 1826.

There are two basic types of peonies: herbaceous and tree peonies. Herbaceous peonies have fleshy clubs of roots, with leaves and flowers sprouting out from the crowns. Herbaceous peonies die back to the ground in the fall. They are derived from the Siberian and European forms. Tree peonies are actually shrubs which produce flowers and leaves on permanent woody branches growing up to eight feet tall.

All are extremely long-lived perennial plants of significant size with spectacular, large flowers which are great for cutting. Some are wonderfully fragrant, with a fragrance similar to old-fashioned roses. Flower colors include white, cream, yellows, coral, pinks, purple, rose, reds (some very deep) and black. Flowers are singles, semi-doubles & doubles. Support large flowers with peony rings.

Peonies have a relatively short bloom period - no one kind blooms for more than one week. To extend the blooming period, plant early, mid-season and late flowering cultivars. Peonies can withstand full sun and summer heat, though light shade will prolong the flowering period in hot areas.

Herbaceous peonies can be planted in early spring or in fall. Peonies need winter chill for good springtime bloom. Plant on a northern slope & do not mulch in winter. Peonies are able to withstand summer heat, but the flowers don’t last well in warm springtime weather.
Choose early blooming varieties, provide some afternoon shade & adequate water.

Peonies require site preparation, but will return with outstandingly beautiful flowers for a lifetime. They need deep, rich soil with good drainage - the roots will quickly rot in poorly drained soil.

Consider planting peonies in raised beds. Ideally, the site should be deeply dug (12-20 inches). Work in lots of well-rotted manure or compost & high-phosphorus fertilizer.
Allow the soil to settle before planting. Give each peony three feet of space. Peonies prefer slightly alkaline soil - pH 6.0 to 7.0. Add lime to excessively acid soil.

Peonies do best when planted in Fall for Spring bloom. Avoid planting in a border facing east, as the flower buds may be damaged by the early morning sun, if it happens to shine on them after a frosty night. Borders facing south, southwest or west are best.
Peonies have fleshy roots suggesting long sweet potatoes joined together at one end.
Soak roots in water just prior to planting, to give them a good drink. Set roots carefully as planting too deep prevents flowering. Plant with rose-colored eyes facing up, two inches deep in colder climates, one inch deep in warmer regions.

Mulch is helpful in hot regions. Be sure to allow for depth of mulch when planting.
Fertilize the plants with Master Nursery brand Multi Purpose Fertilizer (16-16-16), or any multi-purpose fertilizer, after the flowering period. Peonies are unlikely to bloom the first year, but should bloom annually after that. They can be left undisturbed for many years, and will bloom satisfactorily for 20 years or more.

There is usually no need to divide herbaceous peonies, except to increase stock. Dig the clumps in early fall and hose off any soil. Divide into sections using a sharp knife, making sure each section has three to five eyes. Plant immediately so plants have time to put down roots before freezing weather. Herbaceous peonies may take 1-2 years to establish before blooming.

For cut flowers, cut just as buds begin to open. Leave at least three leaves on each stem, preserving leaf growth to nourish the plant for the following year. Remove less than half the blossoms from any clump. Deadhead to prevent seed formation. Remove seed pods if they develop.

Peonies can develop the fungal disease botrytis, especially if weather is cool and humid.
Young buds will blacken and wither, fuzzy brown spots develop on the flowers and leaves, and the stems wilt and collapse. Botrytis can be prevented by taking the following measures:

-    Provide good air circulation
-    Dispose of diseased portions of plant and fallen leaves immediately
-    Cut stems back to soil level in fall
-    Spray with copper fungicide in spring, as new growth emerges
 
The American Peony Society publishes the following tips for reasons why peonies do not bloom:
 
  • Plants too young.
    		•
     
  • Planted too deep. Eyes should be no more than 2-3 inches below soil surface.
    •  
  • Large clumps planted without first being divided.
    		•
     
  • Buds killed by late frost or waterlogged from constant rain.
    •  
  • Buds killed by disease or attacked by thrips. Use an appropriate spray.
    •  
  • Roots diseased. Destroy plants.
    •  
  • Plants undernourished. Use a high-phosphate fertilizer such as 5-10-5.
    •  
  • Ground too dry. Water thoroughly.
    •  
  • Excessive hot weather. Late-blooming full doubles are especially susceptible.
    •  
  • Planted too close to trees and shrubs, or crowded by other plants.
    •  
  • Too much shade, making plants tall and leafy.
    •  
  • Plants undermined by gophers or moles.
    •    
       
    SHADE TREES FOR SHASTA COUNTY

    Things to Consider When Selecting Shade Trees:
     
  • What is the ultimate size tree you would like.
    •  
  • What are the growth specifications of the trees you are considering?
        a. Is the location near foundation, driveway, sidewalk septic leach fields, etc.?
        b. Does the tree have a shallow or deep root structure?
    •  
  • Larger, established trees (30 gal or larger) will fill out the fastest.
    •  
  • Trees with the largest leaves will give the heaviest shade.
    •  
  • Some trees, like maple, fruitless mulberry and gingko lose all their leaves at once making clean up easier.
    •  
  • Moderately growing trees generally have deeper root systems than fast growing trees.
    •    
    Fast Growing Trees
    Will grow to 35 - 70 feet tall:
    Deciduous  
    Acer saccharinum
    Celebration Maple
    Silver Maple
    Catalpa speciosa
    Catalpa
    Pawlonia
    Empress Tree
    Celtis occidentalis
    Common Hackberry
    Celtis sinensis
    Chinese Hackberry
    Liquidambar
    Liquid Ambar, Sweet Gum
    Liriodendron tulipifera
    Tulip Tree
    Morus alba ‘Stribling’
    Fruitless Mulberry
    Nyssa sylvatica
    Sour Gum, Black Tupelo
    Platanus acerifolia
    Sycamore, London Plane Tree
    Robinia x ambigua
    Purple Robe Locust
    Salix babylonica
    Weeping Willow
       
    Evergreen
    Cedrus deodara
    Deodar Cedar
    Sequoia sempervirens
    Redwood
    Thuja ‘Green Giant’
    Western Red Cedar ‘Green Giant’
       
    Will grow to 20 - 35 feet tall:
    		  
    Acer tataricum ginnala
    		Amur Maple
    x Chitalpa tashkentensis ‘Pink Dawn’
    		Chitalpa ‘Pink Dawn’
    Chilopsis linearis ‘Burgundy’
    		Desert Willow ‘Burgundy’
    Chionanthus retusus
    		Chinese Fringe Tree
    Fraxinus americana
    		Autumn Purple Ash
    Fraxinus oxycarpa
    		Raywood Ash
    Pyrus callyreana
    		Flowering Pear, Aristocrat Flowering Pear
    Prunus cerasifera
    		Flowering Plum
    		 
       
    Moderate Growing Shade Trees
    Acer buergeranum Trident Maple
    Acer x freemanii ‘Autumn Fantasy’ Autumn Fantasy Maple
    Acer x freemanii ‘Jeffers red’ Autumn Blaze Maple
    Acer rubrum ‘Autumn Flame’ Autumn Flame Maple
    Acer rubrum ‘October Glory’ October Glory Maple
    Acer rubrum ‘Red Sunset’ Red Sunset Maple
    Arbutus unedo Strawberry Tree
       
    NOTE: Most trees in the Acer family will grow to 50+ feet tall, with a shallow, aggressive root system.
    Slow Growing Shade Trees
    Deciduous
    Gingko biloba
    Gingko, Maidenhair
    Magnolia grandiflora
    Southern Magnolia
    Magnolia x soulangeana
    Saucer Magnolia
    Evergreen
    Cedrus atlantica
    Atlas Cedar
    Cedrus libani
    Cedar of Lebanon
    Laurus nobilis
    Sweet Bay, Grecian Laurel
    Laurus nobilis ‘Saratoga’
    Sweet Bay ‘Saratoga’
     
    SHALLOW ROOTED TREES
    Acer buergeranum
    Trident Maple
    Acer x freemanii
    Autumn Blaze Maple
    Acer palmatum
    Japanese Maple
    Acer platanoides
    Norway Maple
    Acer saccharinum
    Silver Maple & Cutleaf Silver
    Acer saccharum
    Sugar Maple
    Acer tataricum ginnala
    Amur Maple
    Ailanthus altissima
    Tree of Heaven
    Albizia julibrissin
    Mimosa
    Alnus cordata
    Italian Alder
    Alnus rhombifolia
    White Alder (shallow to medium, aggressive)
    Betula pendula
    European White Birch (aggressive feeder roots)
    Catalpa speciosa
    Catalpa
    Cinnomomum camphora
    Camphor Tree (shallow to medium - aggressive
    Eucalyptus camaldulensis
    Red Gum (aggressive)
    Eucalyptus sideroxylon
    Red Ironbark
    Fraxinus Americana
    Autumn Purple Ash
    Fraxinus latifolia
    Oregon Ash
    Fraxinus oxycarpa
    Raywood Ash
    Fraxinus velutina
    Modesto Ash (shallow & aggressive)
    Gleditsia triacanthos
    Sunburst Honey locust (relatively shallow)
    Lagerstroemia indica
    Crape Myrtle
    Ligustrum lucidum
    Glossy Privet
    Liquidambar
    Liquid Amber
    Liriodendron tulipifera
    Tulip Tree (shallow to medium)
    Magnolia stellata
    Star Magnolia (shallow to medium)
    Morus alba ‘Stribling’
    Fruitless Mulberry
    Pinus radiata
    Monterey Pine (shallow to medium)
    Pinus sabiana
    Digger, Gray or Foothill Pine
    Populus fremonti
    Fremont Cottonwood (very shallow, aggressive, short
    Populus nigra
    Lombardy Poplar
    Robinia x ambigua
    Purple Robe Locust (aggressive)
    Robinia pseudoacacia
    Black Locust
    Salix babylonica
    Weeping Willow (aggressive)
    Sapium sebiferum
    Chinese Tallow
    Tilia cordata Little-Leaf Linden
    Ulmus allata Wahoo Winged Elm (aggressive)
    Ulmus americana American Elm (aggressive)
    Ulmus parvifolia Chinese Elm
    Ulmus pumila Siberian Elm
    Zelkova serrata Sawleaf Zelkova (medium, shallow)
       
    MEDIUM ROOTED TREES
    Arbutus unedo
    Strawberry Tree
    Cedrus deodora
    Deodar Cedar (medium to deep)
    Celtis australis
    European Hackberry (shallow to medium)
    Celtis occidentalis
    Hackberry
    Cornus florida
    Dogwood
    Crataegus laevigata
    English Hawthorne
    Cupressus arizonica
    Arizona Cypress (medium to deep)
    Eucalyptus polyanthemos
    Silver Dollar (medium to deep, aggressive feeder
    Ginkgo biloba
    Maidenhair Tree
    Grevillea robusta
    Silk Oak (shallow to medium)
    Juglans hindsii
    Black Walnut (medium to deep)
    Juglans regia
    English Walnut (medium to deep)
    Koelreuteria paniculata
    Goldenrain Tree (medium to deep)
    Laurus nobilis
    Sweet Bay (medium to deep)
    Magnolia grandiflora
    Magnolia
    Malua toringoides
    Crabapple
    Malus zuni
    ‘Radiant’ Crabapple
    Maytenus boaria
    Mayten Tree
    Metasequoia glyptostroboides
    Dawn Redwood
    Nyssa sylvatica
    Sour Gum, Tupelo or Pepperidge
    Pinus thunbergiana
    Japanese Black Pine
    Pistachia chinesis
    Chinese Pistache (deep, moderate)
    Platanus acerifolia
    Sycamore, London Plane Tree
    Prunus cerasifera
    Flowering Plum, Purple Leaf Plum
    Prunus dulcis
    Almond
    Prunus lyonii
    Catalina Cherry (medium to deep)
    Pseudotsuga menziesii
    Douglas Fir (medium to deep)
    Pyrus callyreana
    Flowering Pear
    Pyrus kawakamii
    Evergreen Pear
    Quercus palustris
    Pin Oak
    Sophora japonica
    Japanese Pagoda/Chinese Scholar
    Tilia americana
    American Linden (small to medium)
       
    DEEP ROOTED TREES
     
    Calocedrus decurrens
    Incense Cedar
    Chamaecyparis lawsoniana
    Port Oxford Cedar
    Carya illinoiensis
    Pecan
    Celtis sinensis
    Chinese Hackberry
    Cercis canadensis
    Eastern Redbud
    Cryptomeria japonica
    Japanese Cedar
    Malus sylvestris
    Domestic Apple (moderate to deep)
    Melia azedarach ‘Umbraculifera’
    Texas Umbrella
    Nyssa sylvatica
    Sour Gum, Tupelo
    Pinus canariensis
    Canary Island Pine (med to deep)
    Pinus pinea
    Italian Stone Pine (med to deep)
    Pinus ponderosa
    Ponderosa Pine (deep)
    Pinus wallichiana
    Himalayan White Pine
    Punica granatum
    Pomegranate (moderately deep)
    Quercus coccinea
    Scarlet Oak
    Quercus douglasii
    Blue Oak
    Quercus lobata
    Valley Oak
    Quercus x morehus
    Oracle Oak (aggressive)
    Quercus rubra
    Red Oak
    Quercus wislizenii
    Interior Live Oak
    Sequoia sempervirens
    Coast Redwood (10’ deep but considered shallow for size of tree - good for hedges, privacy)
    Sequoiadendron giganteum
    Interior Redwood
       
       
    Our New Pond
     
    During a sweltering August weekend, sixteen good-natured folks participated in Wyntour Gardens’ first Hands-on Pond Building Workshop. Led by Brion and Pat Sincaglia of Shadow Valley Aquatic Plant Nursery, the two-day class covered the basics of pond building, site location and shape design, setting the BioFalls, pump and skimmer, creating a waterfall, landscaping, planting and maintenance.

    Our enthusiastic “students” were anxious to begin digging in the mud, and they got their chance - by the end of Saturday, the kidney shaped pond was several feet deep, with multi-leveled ledges around the perimeter for setting plants, and the pond liner was installed. On Sunday, rocks were laid around the edges, the waterfall was created, and plants were added. There was an audible sigh of satisfaction from the crowd when the pump was turned on and water began flowing over the rocks.

    Workshop participants included: Joanne Akman; Mr. and Mrs. John Benkosky; Ted Bowen; Landon Carvalho; Doug Caskey; Helene Coffman; Tom and Esther Cox; Deb Devall; Debra De Witt; Gary and Kim Eiler; Bev Fuller; Robert Miller; Kathy Morrissey; Kerri Smith; Ron and Kathy Stillmunkes; Vicki and Pat Talladino; and Laura Walker.

    We are extremely grateful to all workshop participants for their help. The new pond is located on the north side of the building, in the water plant area of the nursery. Please take a look the next time you are here.

    More pond and water garden classes are in the works for Spring 2004. Watch our website for information or ask for details the next time you are at the nursery.
     
    Fire - Safe Landscaping
     
    During the hot, dry Redding summers, the danger of fire and the damage it can wreak become a constant threat. Intelligent planning and planting can help reduce fire hazard around one’s property.

    The plants surrounding a structure can actually have an influence in determining a building’s change of survival during a fire. A firescape or fire resistant landscape is created by selecting plants which are less likely to burn and locating them wisely. All plants will burn if there is enough heat, yet there are many plants which are suitable for reducing fire hazard.

    Fire-retardant plants are not apt to burst into flames, and should be planted near buildings. They typically have fleshy, moist leaves, and the trees and shrubs are usually deciduous. Fire-retardant plants tend to be fairly dependent for water and nutrients and demand some maintenance.

    Fire-resistant plants will slow and incoming fire because they are less likely to burn than other plants, and if they do burn, they don‘t hold the fire very long. They should be planted farther out from the structure than the fire-retardant varieties. Some fire-resistant plants actually survive and re-sprout after a fire, helping to mitigate erosion problems. As a group, fire-resistant plants require little maintenance.

    Plants with one or more of the following characteristics are better able than others to resist or even retard fire.
    •
      Deciduous leaves
    •
      Broad leaves
    •
      Moist, bendable leaves 
    •
      Thick leaves
    •
      Thin, runny sap
    •
      Non-fragrant leaves
    •
      Non-hairy leaves
    •
      Silver or gray leaves (unfortunately, native, fragrant
      sages do not conform to this rule, and are highly
      ignitable.
     

    Plant trees with their mature size in mind, locating them so that their foliage will not be within 10 feet of any wall. Keep existing trees pruned and trim any branches that overhang your roof.

    Annual pruning and thinning of trees and shrubs, as well as the clean up of any plant litter or debris is as important as the specific plants selected for your landscape. Locate tall shrubs the furthest from buildings. Supports for vines should be built of masonry, wrought iron, chain link or oversized lumber to minimize flammability.
    Agave - Champion of Fire Resistant Plants
    Agave (Century Plant) is favored for its fire and drought resistance. It’s fleshy blue-green strap-shaped leaves hold water and can actually help protect your home in the event of a fire. The sharply pointed leaves have hooked spines along the margins and can act as a safety guardian, discouraging intruders from crossing its path.

    A succulent plant native to dry desert regions, agave is hardy in the Redding region. It is best to plant agave in containers, so it can be brought into a protected location during the winter.

    Agave flower clusters are large but not colorful, and may not occur for 10 years or more. The flower stalk can reach 15 - 40 feet tall bearing yellowing, green flowers. After flowering, the foliage clump dies, usually leaving behind suckers that make new plants.

    Agave grows to be very large and its spines make it formidable to remove. It is important to be sure you really want a Century Plant before planting one.

    The following is a listing of recommended fire-resistant plants currently available at Wyntour Gardens Nursery.
    TREES
    Cercis occidentalis (Western Redbud)
    Citrus spp. (Citrus)
    Populus spp. and cvs. (Poplars)
    Rhus spp. and cvs. (Sumacs)

    SHRUBS
    Aloe spp. (Aloe)
    Agave (Century Plant)
    Aquilegia (Columbine)
    Arbutus unedo (Strawberry Tree)
    Arctostaphylos spp. (Manzanita)
    Arctostaphylos uva-ursi (Bearberry)
    Callistemon citrinus (Lemon Bottlebrush)
    Cistus ladanifer (Crimson-Spot Rockrose)
    Cotoneaster (Cotoneaster)
    Escallonia spp. (Escallonia)
    Feijoa sellowiana (Pineapple Guava)
    Gaultheria procumbens (Wintergreen)
    Gaultheria shallon (Salal)
    Hemerocallis (Daylilies)
    Heteromeles arbutifolia (Toyon, California Holly)
    Ligustrum japonicum ‘Texanum’ (Japanese Privet)
    Nerium oleander (Oleander)
    Phormium tenax (dwarf varieties) (New Zealand Flax)
    Pittosporum spp. (Pittosporum)
    Prunus caroliniana (Carolina Laurel Cherry)
    Prunus lyonii (Catalina Cherry)
    Punica granatum (Pomegranate)
    Pyracantha spp. (Firethorn)
    Rhamnus alaternus (Italian Buckthorn)
    Rhamnus californica (Coffeeberry)
    Trachelospermum jasminoides (Star Jasmine)
    Vaccinium spp. and cvs. (Blueberries and Huckleberries)
    Viburnum spp. and cvs. (Viburnum)

    GROUNDCOVERS
    Achillea spp. and cvs. (Yarrow)
    Ajuga reptans (Carpet Bugle)
    Bergenia spp. (Bergenia)
    Ceanothus griseus horizontalis (Wild Lilac Carmel Creeper)
    Cerastium tomentosum (Snow-in-Summer)
    Cotoneaster dammeri (Bearberry Cotoneaster)
    Drosanthemum floribundum (Rosea Ice Plant)
    Hedera spp. (Ivy)
    Helianthemum nummularium (Sunrose)
    Iberis sempervirens (Evergreen Candytuft)
    Lantana montevidensis (Lantana)
    Myoporum parvifolium (Myoporum)
    Oenothera beriandien (Evening Primrose, Sundrops)
    Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary)
    Scaevola ‘Mauve Clusters’ (Scaevola)
    Sedum spp. (Stonecrop)
    Vinca minor spp. and cvs. (Periwinkle)

    VINES
    Campsis radicans (Common Trumpet Creeper)
    Jasminum spp. (Jasmine)
    Lonicera halliana (Honeysuckle)
    Solanum jasminoides (Potato Vine)
    Wisteria spp. and cvs. (Wisteria)
     
    Fall
     
    ‘Tis the Season to be Planting
    Here in the North State, gardeners often refer to Fall as the “Second Spring.” It is an excellent time for planting trees, shrubs and perennials, as the still mild weather gives plants the opportunity to establish roots and become acclimated while the soil is still warm. Mild Redding winters allow root systems to continue to grow during the winter months. Long-awaited rains alleviate the need for constant watering, though it’s still important to keep things watered during heat spells.

    Most trees and shrubs can be planted now, and many varieties are known for their breathtaking fall color. Ginkgo biloba (Maidenhair Tree) is a hardy tree with leaves that turn a bright gold in the fall. The leaves of Nyssa sylvatica (Sour Gum) turn coppery red, and its, red-tinged bark makes a dramatic picture against the winter sky. Quercus coccinea (Scarlet Oak) is a moderately fast growing deciduous tree whose leaves also turn a bright scarlet with the onset of colder autumn nights. All Maples (Acer varieties) will take on color as well. Among the countless varieties of shrubs, Nandina domestica (Heavenly Bamboo), Coleonema (Breath of Heaven), Cotoneaster and Spirea are excellent choices for fall color.

    Fall is also an excellent time to plant perennials. They are easy to plant, require little care during the winter, and are good filler for bare patches in the landscape. When spring arrives, you will have a jump on garden tasks, as some of the work will already be done. Some species which over-winter well in the North State are: Aster frikartii ‘Monch’, Erigeron karviskianus (Santa Barbara daisy), Lavender, Penstemon (P. gloxinoides), and Scabiosa ‘Butterfly Blue’ and ‘Pink Mist’.

    Calendula is perhaps the showiest winter flower. Other good flowers to plant now for winter color include Iceland poppies, pansies, violas, and primrose. If planted now, these early bloomers will be larger, better established and produce more flowers than similar flowers planted in spring.

    Fall is also the time to plant spring flowering bulbs, like tulips, iris, daffodils and crocus’. Filling hillsides and open areas in the garden with bulbs will result in gorgeous displays of cheery, bright flowers in early spring. Use lots of bulb fertilizer and compost for best results. Cover bulb beds with fall & winter flowers, or plant the beds with a hardy evergreen perennial ground cover like verbena or thyme.

    Scatter wildflower seeds now, as nature would. Use seed you have collected or purchased from a reputable seed company. Keep seeds watered during dry spells, especially if seeds have sprouted. You should be rewarded with beds of exotic blooms in spring.

    If you find yourself with a collection of plants in nursery containers that never quite got into the ground this summer, plant them now – they will have an easier time in the ground than in the pots over the winter. Fall is also a great time to put in a new lawn or refurbish an existing one.

    Its best to wait until spring to plant tropical plants, citrus and other frost sensitive plants, such as fuchsia and bougainvillea. Protect these with frost cloth, by building a frame around the plant and draping the material around the frame. Avoid touching the leaves with the cloth. Wrapping twinkly lights around the trunks of the plants will raise the temperature a few degrees, perhaps enough to ward off frost damage, besides being very decorative. Also consider keeping frost sensitive plants in containers on wheels, so they can be moved inside when temperatures plummet and frost threatens.

    General fall clean-up is as much a part of the yearly gardening cycle as tilling the soil and planting seeds. Harvest as much produce as possible, collect fallen vegetables, remove spent plants and clean up under your plants. Make sure the harvest is finished on fruit trees. Clear off fruit that has not been harvested and collect what has fallen on the ground.

    Pull up weeds before they set seed. Don’t put seedy weeds or diseased vegetables, fruit or plant clippings into your compost pile. Rake leaves weekly - don’t let them collect, as they can cause fungal problems in spring.

    Fall is an excellent time to have soil testing done, to be sure of the nutrient composition of your soil. MONARCH LABS in Chico does thorough soil testing, and can be reached at: (530) 343-5818. It is also a good time to correct any deficiencies noted in the soil. Add soil sulfur to correct alkalinity and oyster-shell lime to correct acidic soil.

    Think about care and feeding of native wildlife over the winter by planting locally native plants for birds and small animals. Also choose shrubs that bear fruit and berries. Provide a source of water. A pond with a shallow side or a birdbath will offer water for drinking and bathing. Frogs and toads eat a wide variety of insect pests & will take up residence in or near a ground-level water feature.

    During the slow winter months, study the microclimates in your yard. Which areas collect frost? Which areas dry out quickly? Which are the wettest? Which are the most/least sheltered. Draw maps, make notes of the successes and not-so-successful things from the past year, plan for the coming year, and begin dreaming with seed catalogs and magazine ideas.
    Secrets of a Winter Vegetable Garden
    Fresh garden produce unquestionably tastes better and is higher in vitamins than grocery store produce. This is especially true during the winter, because store-bought produce is mostly grown far away in warmer climates. The selection becomes more limited and the prices higher during the winter months, and sometimes shopping for produce during the doldrums of winter can be down-right depressing.

    If you’ve never grown vegetables during the winter, now is the perfect time to start. The Mediterranean climate of our area is perfect for year-round vegetable gardening, and by using a few special techniques and the correct selection of crops, one can easily have year-round harvests at home. Cool weather crops are hardy and many will survive temperatures below freezing, others down to 30 degrees.

    Winter vegetable gardening is easy, especially compared to the summer vegetable garden. There are fewer insects. There will be little watering, and less weeding. You can let the weather do the work for you this winter instead of fighting the arid heat. Give your winter vegetables extra space when you plant them so the air circulation can help prevent rot. You don’t need to fertilize the winter garden - in fact it is better not to. High levels of nitrogen will bring on a new flush of growth, which will be more susceptible to frost. Fertilize in the spring to replace depleted nitrogen.

    Location is key to a successful winter garden. Choose a warm location, one that does not frost early. Frost pockets form in low-lying areas, so locate your vegetable garden in the highest point in your yard. You will want good drainage for the rain water. Amend your soil with gypsum or Soil Buster to help with poor drainage.

    A blanket of mulch will keep the ground insulated, and even out swings in soil temperature. Mulch prevents soil from compression of winter rains. It will also help keep the mud off the plants and reduce winter weeds. Mulch, such as Mirana Natural Cocoa Mulch, is easy to spread, light to handle and environmentally friendly. Master Nursery offers a Forest Bark and Shredded Red Cedar Bark mulch as well.

    Easy access to your garden is important, as winters are muddy. Use a layer of straw to line the paths between your plants. Not only does the straw provide a non-muddy walkway, but also helps with weed prevention. In spring, you can simply cultivate the straw in with your soil, to be ready for another growing season.

    Winter favorites include cole crops such as cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, kohlrabi and brussels sprouts. These can be started by seed in August or purchased as seedlings in a nursery throughout the fall/winter season. These crops need cool weather for their heads to form.

    Spinach is best grown in cool weather, as it bolts in the heat. Spinach will re-grow as you cut it, but if you want to harvest it all winter make several sowings throughout the season. There are many varieties of lettuce which thrive in cool weather. Red leaf lettuce is especially beautiful, with crinkly leaves and splashes of red. At our nurseries, the six-packs of assorted lettuce varieties are especially popular. There are other delicious greens for your salad, such as mesclun mixes and arugula, which add unusual flavors, textures and colors.

    Here at Wyntour Gardens we carry a wide variety of cool-crop vegetable and herb seedlings and specialized tomatoes that will set fruit at lower temperatures, to help make winter gardening even more exciting. Choose varieties that are adaptive to chilly temperatures and shorter daylight hours such as the tomato variety, Siberia. If you start from seed, plant between July and September. Seedlings should be planted as soon as they become available.

    Other great and hardy winter green include kale and Swiss Chard. Beets and turnips will overwinter, plus provide greens for steaming. Successive plantings of carrots are highly recommended. And don’t forget the onions, garlic, and peas. (For more information about planting onions, please read Sherry Rosen’s Staff Pick.)

    If space is limited, try a “Completely Edible Salad Bowl”. Choose a container with a fairly wide top (it doesn’t need to be very deep), and plant your favorite varieties of lettuce, chives, parsley, peas, and Swiss Chard. Be sure to include some edible flowers like calendula, nasturtiums, and pansies. Keep in a convenient, sunny location near the kitchen door is best, and you can harvest fresh salad for many months.

    With so many great vegetables to choose from, there’s no reason not to grow winter vegetables. And when the artichokes, asparagus, rhubarb, strawberries and potatoes arrive at your Garden Center, it’s a sign that spring is not too far behind.
    The Emotional Benefits of Plants
    The end of daylight savings time starts the countdown: Halloween, The Day of the Dead, Thanksgiving, the Winter Solstice, Hanukah, Christmas- whew, no wonder we’re a wreck by the New Year. With all the shopping, cooking, visiting, and cleaning, we barely have time to find the magic of the season, much less garden.

    Looking for a way to take the stress out of your holidays? Or maybe you have a Grinch in your life. Learn how plants can reduce stress, help with depression and soothe the savage shopper. Scientists are now discovering what we gardeners know instinctively - Flowers trigger happy emotions, help us feel satisfied and have a positive effect on social behavior.

    * Published scientific studies are showing that flowers have an immediate impact on happiness and a long-term positive effect on our moods, helping us with depression, anxiety and agitation.

    * Senior citizens who receive a gift of flowers not only feel less depressed, but score higher on memory tests.

    * The presence of flowers leads to more contact with family and friends.

    * Studies of inner cities have shown that residents with trees and green spaces in common areas socialize more often and feel a strong sense of community.

    * Employees that have a view of nature from their desk are more satisfied and healthy than their windowless counterparts, who had a 23 % higher rate of feeling ill.

    * Workers with flowers and plants in their workspace have improved creative and problem solving skills, up to 15%.

    Here are some good reasons to expose children to gardening:

    * Research has shown that contact with green, natural settings relieves symptoms of Attention Deficit Disorder.

    * Inner city girls with a view of nature from their home score higher on tests of self-discipline.

    * Outdoor green spaces foster creative play and child-adult interaction.

    * Children reap the same benefits as adults from flowers and plants: reduced stress and lowered aggression.

    Here at Wyntour Gardens we offer a variety of ways to help you give the gift of emotional health. Our Colorful Container Gardens, Completely Edible Salad Bowls and our serene Bonsai are gorgeous plants for home and gift giving. Or, make some time for your own happiness by taking advantage of our easy new gift card. If you have the wintertime blues sign up for one of our fun and informative hands-on workshops. Check our Events Calendar for listings of upcoming classes.


    To learn more about these studies check out these links.

    The Emotional Impact of Flowers, Jeanette Haviland-Jones, Rutgers University
    http://human-nature.com/ep/articles/ep03104132.html

    The Human Environment Research Laboratory
    www.herl.uiuc.edu

    Kathleen Wolf’s research on human dimensions of urban forestry.
    http://www.cfr.washington.edu/research.envmind/

    www.plantsatwork.org


    Army Worms - A Creepy Story
    -or-

    How Do I Fix My Lawn?
    They came in the dark of a warm summer night, attacking defenseless lawns all over Shasta County. While we slept, unaware, stealth moths deposited clusters of eggs in our blue grass, fescue, and rye. Out of the mild humidity, an army was born, several hundred worms per egg cluster. It was only a matter of days before they had chewed and cut each lawn to the root. They swarmed on people’s decks, and even into homes. They were coming back in hordes, faster than people could sweep them away. Then, like an army in formation, heading into battle, they marched onto the next yard.

    One day our lawns were beautiful, the next, one small irregular spot. By day three there was total decimation. We were helpless to do anything but water judiciously and hope our lawns would come back.

    Early fall and spring are a time of recovery for our worm ravaged neighborhoods. Lawns damaged by insects may have to be renovated or completely re-sown, to correct the problem. If you have a few patches of dead lawn, renovation will probably be enough. Here are the steps to take to

    Do not use a pre-emergent prior to sowing your seeds, as this will adversely affect the germination of new lawn seed. Systemic weed killers with Glyphosate such as Monterey brand Remuda can be used up to seven days before planting.

    * If you have not de-thatched the problem areas of your lawn, do it now. Water and pesticides have a hard time penetrating the thatch layer and thus, pests find protection. Aeration will remove a thin or medium thatch layer. It may take a thatching rake or vertical mower to remove thicker thatches.

    * Once the thatch is removed, mow the turf to about ¾ of an inch high.

    * Remove sod over any high or low spots so your lawn is level.

    * If your turf is patchy and thin after raking, over-seed the lawn at half the recommended rate for establishment. Prepare bare spots by turning the soil, leaving a loose one inch layer for the new roots to take hold. Remember to keep seed bed consistently moist to ensure germination. Spread seed evenly. Scotts Easy Hand-Held Spreader is inexpensive and easy to use. Your lawn will grow from remaining stems and crowns in addition to the new grass seed. If your lawn has more than a few brown patches and has not recovered, you may need to completely re-seed it.

    * Decide which kind of lawn is best for your area conditions. Here at Wyntour Gardens we have four types of bulk lawn seed. Annual Rye is a tough lawn that will take traffic and stay hardy, though it does go dormant and turn brown in the winter. California Green is very hardy; it is the Old Shasta mix that the feed stores used to sell. Royal Turf has softer, finer, blades but it won’t hold up to kids and dogs. Sun and Shade is sturdier and will take some shade.

    * Preparation is the key for starting a successful lawn. Don’t just scrape the ground, break up the compacted soil. If it is a large area use a tiller. Rototillers can be rented from your local rental center. Now is a great time to add gypsum, such as Soilbuster, which will help break up clay, provide primary nutrients and improve soil drainage. Spread Master Nursery brand, Master Start Fertilizer, then till again, mixing the amendments into the soil.

    * Rake the soil to begin to level it out, removing any rocks and debris that you find. To avoid problems with excess water-runoff, make sure that any grading you do allows water to flow away from your house.

    * Finish leveling the soil by using a roller filled with water. Like tillers, rollers can be rented from a local rental center. Here at our nursery, we loan out seeding rollers and water filled rollers to our customers. Water the soil lightly after leveling.

    * Following the recommended seeding rate, spread 1/4 of the seed over the entire lawn area. Then repeat times, each time using 1/4 of the seed. However, each of the 4 times you distribute a load of seed, push the spreader in a different direction, to encourage even dispersal.

    * Rake lightly, so as to cover the seed with a thin layer of soil. Master Nursery brand Paydirt, a multi-purpose soil conditioner, makes a great top dressing, as it is heavy enough to keep the seed from blowing away.

    * The seeds must be watered properly, in order to germinate. Use just a fine spray, as you don't want to create a flood! The soil should be kept evenly moist, which means you must water several times per day (depending on the weather). After the grass blades sprout, you'll still need to water a couple of times per day. If you know your schedule won't permit this, now is the time to look into automatic irrigation systems before starting a new lawn.

    Remember as you maintain your lawn that pesticides kill both destructive and beneficial bugs. We need the beneficial bugs to pollinate, prey on destructive insects, and keep a general balance to our gardens. Keep your lawn healthy, encourage a balanced eco-system, and use pesticides only when necessary. As always, if you have any questions about you lawn our knowledgeable staff will be happy to help. Call us at 530-365-2256.
    Fruitful Event at Wyntour Gardens
    On August 20, 2005, Wyntour Gardens and the Red Bluff Garden Center proudly hosted this summer’s big events: Fruit Tasting and Home Orchard Seminars. It was a day packed with fun and information for the home gardener.

    Home Orchard expert Ed Laivo from the Dave Wilson Nursery, gave an engaging and informative presentation on back yard orchard culture, a technique of prolonged harvest of tree-ripe fruit from a small space. Ed’s discussion included planting several or many fruit varieties close together, which ripen at different times. Ed also covered the technique of keeping fruit trees small by summer pruning, which makes trees easier to maintain while providing plenty of high quality fruit for home use.

    The seminar culminated with a Fruit Tasting, generously sponsored by Dave Wilson nursery. Fifteen varieties of fruit were served, including pluots, peaches, nectarines, plums, and Asian pears. The samples for the tasting were selected based on their proximity to peak maturity, and tasted wonderful. The fruit was graciously served by Joe Laivo, who was also a font of information.

    Over 100 people attended the event at Wyntour Gardens, including a photographer and a writer from the Record Searchlight. Another 50 people attended in Red Bluff. The event was very successful at both locations, and we hope to do it again in the future.

    In conjunction with Dave Wilson Nursery, Wyntour Gardens implemented a Soft Order program where our customers could special order fruit trees that we normally would not carry. The deadline for the Soft Order fruit tree program is September 30th, 2005. Participants received a 10% coupon to use at Wyntour Gardens. This coupon expires September 22nd , 2005.

    For more information about High Density Fruit Tree Culture go to, www.davewilson.com


    		 
    ATTRACTING BIRDS TO YOUR YARD
    Providing nutrition for wild birds is especially important in the winter, when food is harder to find. Planning a garden to welcome birds begins with observing and noting which birds already frequent your neighborhood or pass through seasonally.

    Every species of bird has particular preferences for food and shelter. Know the favorites of the birds you wish to attract. There are many books to help identify birds. Sunset’s Attracting Birds has excellent section on birds & their preferences, while Audubon field guides remain the classics on American bird identification.
    All bird habitats must supply the following:
  • Food - Berries, fruits, nuts, nectar; seeds of grasses, flowers, shrubs & trees, and various insects (earthworms, caterpillars, flies, aphids, mites) all provide nourishment for birds.
    		•
  • Water - Birds must have water for drinking and bathing. Keep birdbaths clean, with fresh water. If you live in an area where it gets very cold, consider purchasing a heater especially made for birdbaths, to keep the water from freezing.
    		•
  • Shelter & Cover - Birds need shelter from the elements and from predators - from shade to foliar canopies. In very cold areas, needle-leafed evergreens are essential for protection. Shrubs can provide sanctuary from cats and dogs, while thorny shrubs provide even greater protection from intruders. A group of shrubs is optimal.
    		•
  • Nesting Sites - Birds use many different styles of housing - on the ground; in grasses or under foliage; at different heights in shrubbery and trees; in and on different parts of many structures.

    		•
    The greatest mix of bird species occurs where two or more different habitats come together in borders of mixed vegetation. For instance, where a field joins a grove of willows, or a forest opens into a meadow - tall trees giving way to shorter ones, then merging into shrubbery. The goal as a gardener is to create an arrangement of plants that simulates these “edges”.

    Diversity of plant species is the key to successful landscaping for attracting birds. Plan your landscape with lots of variety in height, types of plants, flowers, pods, seeds, etc. Plan for succeeding and overlapping seasons. In very cold climates, be sure to include dense, needle-leafed evergreens. Include a garden oasis, with shallow water for bathing.

    Create a hedgerow between yards or along roadways using a fruiting hedge for a screen. Serviceberry, blueberry, raspberry, elderberry, holly, hawthorn, and rugosa roses are great hedge plants. When pruning shrubbery, take care to not disturb bird nests.

    Do not use pesticides near birdscapes. Check that no preservatives have been used in any commercially prepared bird seeds.

    There are many types of pre-made bird feeders and bird houses available, suitable for different types of birds. Research the birds you wish to attract, and purchase the appropriate type of feeder and seed.
    There are many prepared mixes of seeds and other bird foods available.
  • Black oil sunflower seed is considered the best all-around food for attracting the largest variety of songbirds.
    		•
  • Other favorites are sunflower hearts, peanuts, other nutmeats, safflower seeds or specially prepared seed mixtures.
    		•
  • Fresh & dried fruits are enjoyed by many species, but take care that these are fresh. Do not allow fruits or any bird food to become moldy.
    		•
  • Suet. Wild birds need very high levels of fat to survive, and suet contains the fats that birds need.

    		•
    Birds find food by sight. Initially, place the feeder in a spot far enough out in the yard to be visible to the birds, yet where it cannot be reached by squirrels other predators. Once the birds realize there is food available, and begin to frequent your “bird oasis”, the feeder can gradually be moved closer to the house to allow for better viewing.

    Consider your bird garden an ongoing project. Let the birds rate your choices. Notice what works well. Remember, it will take time for the birds to discover and begin to use the habitat you’ve created.
    COMPOST
    Compost is a nutrient rich soil amendment that fertilizes, conditions and improves soil structure.

    Fall is a perfect time to get a compost pile started, because there is so much green matter and leaves from garden cleanup.

    Decomposition depends upon air, water, bacteria, fungi and other microscopic organisms, as well as larger organisms including earthworms, slugs, spiders, ants and flies.
    GOOD FOR COMPOSTING - HEALTHY GARDEN CLIPPINGS
  • grass clippings
    		•
  • cut annuals, perennials, vegetables
    		•
  • leaves
    		•
  • kitchen veggie waste, including egg shells, coffee grounds and unbleached paper coffee filters
    		•
  • weeds that do not have seed pods


    		•
    DO NOT USE:
  • Only use undiseased matter. Discard any disease-infected clippings in trash (any clippings with signs of mold, aphid, other insect infestation, etc.) to avoid spreading disease
    		•
  • greasy foods
    		•
  • cooked foods
    		•
  • meats, fish, cheeses
    		•
  • weeds that have gone to seed
    		•
  • thorny branches (roses, blackberries)

    		•
    USEFUL TIPS FOR SUCCESSFUL COMPOSTING:
  • MOST IMPORTANT NEEDS: AIR, WATER
    		•
  • Add new ingredients in layers, alternating wet/green with dry/brown.
    		•
  • The smaller the pieces are cut, the faster they will decompose.
    Use chippers if possible. Shred piles of fallen leaves with a lawn mower.
    		•
  • Use COMPOST STARTER or Achillea (Yarrow) clippings to accelerate decomposition
    		•
  • Turn the pile often - bi-weekly is optimal. Organisms need air to break down garden clippings and kitchen refuse. Turning aerates the pile, hastening the decay and ultimate breakdown of composted materials. Use a fork to turn the pile.
    		•
  • The compost pile needs to stay moist but not wet - like the consistency of a squeezed out sponge. If pile is very wet, add sawdust to absorb excess water.
    		•
  • Your compost pile should smell sweet and fresh. If it smells poorly, it is probably not getting enough air. Turn more often, and add dry, carbon-rich materials like dead leaves and sawdust.
    		•
  • Rotted manure gets treated as a wet/green material - it speeds decomposition.
    		•
  • When adding high carbon ingredients such as sawdust, wood shavings and ground bark, also add additional nitrogen to the mix (grass clippings).

    		•
    THE COMPOST PILE should measure at least 3 feet on all sides, so that it will generate enough heat to decompose contents quickly. Maximum size: no more than 6 feet high & wide.
     
    There are many types of Compost Bins:
  • Rotating barrels - easy to turn
    		•
  • Simple chicken wire structure
    		•
  • 3-box set-up made from new or recycled wood or pallets
    		•
  • Garbage cans
    		•
  • Open piles
    		•
     
    Easy access to finished compost is very important. Lids for keeping out excess moisture are also useful.

    Weed seeds and disease organisms will be destroyed if the temperature of the compost pile reaches 150 - 160 degrees.
    COLD COMPOSTING
    One can also make a compost pile and leave it untended and unturned for up to a year. It will slowly decompose but weed seeds will not be killed. This is considered “cold composting”, and is useful for large quantities of leaves, grass clippings and other garden waste.

    Cow manure, blood meal & fresh grass clippings are high in nitrogen and they speed decomposition.

    When decomposition has completed, sift the compost to remove any large matter that has not decomposed completely. Return these materials to the next pile.

    Mix your new, nutrient rich compost into flower and vegetable beds, or use as mulch.
    USING COVER CROPS TO IMPROVE YOUR SOIL
     
    Green manuring is the growing and turning under of crops to fertilize and improve the soil. It is a very old practice, with Chinese gardeners using green manures for nearly 3,000 years. The ancient Greeks and Romans also practiced green manuring.
     
    Cover crops, or green manure, are one of the cornerstones of ecological agriculture.
    They provide outstanding benefits for the soil & future crops in the following ways:
  • Enrich the soil by increasing organic matter content
    		•
  • Increase earthworms & beneficial microorganisms
    		•
  • Increase the Nitrogen and other minerals available to the plants
    		•
  • Stabilize the soil to prevent erosion (victims of the recent fires should consider using cover crops on their bare hillsides)
    		•
  • Provide habitat for beneficial insects
    		•
  • Improve water, root & air penetration in the soil
    		•
  • Increase soil’s moisture-holding capacity
    		•
  • Choke out weeds
    		•
  • Break up subsoil
    		•
  • Reduce pests
    		•
  • Provide aesthetic value and color
    •  
    Cover-crops are easy, more economical and more environmental than applying chemical fertilizers. It is essentially turning your entire garden into an efficient compost pile.

    The basic idea of cover-cropping is to plant a field with a crop that will benefit the soil. Planting this crop directly after the growing season is over will help keep existing soil nutrients from washing away during the winter.

    The cover crop seed is broadcast on well-tilled ground, then covered with a thin layer of soil. It is especially important to keep the seed moist when just planted, keeping the soil wet 1”-2” below the seeding depth. Keep irrigated throughout the growing season. The more growth ahe cover crop makes in the Fall, the better. The crops will continue to grow throughout the winter.In spring, the cover crops are mowed down then tilled back into the ground, roots and all. The best time to till in the cover crop is when 50% of the flowers are in bloom. It is important to till the mowed crop into the soil as soon as possible, because the green matter loses nitrogen and carbon very rapidly if left exposed to the sun. If possible, chop the crop for faster decomposition. The green material is then allowed to decompose for a few weeks in the soil, putting valuable nutrients back into the soil. The breakdown process takes 10-21 days.

    Legumes like alfalfa, clover, vetch, peas & beans are excellent for cover cropping because they build (or “fix”) Nitrogen in the soil. Alfalfa is the best of the nitrogen-fixing crops. Buckwheat and ryegrass are effective against weeds, by growing so quickly that it soon overpowers the weeds and chokes them out.

    It is important to inoculate (or coat the seed), to insure a high level of viable rhizobacteria when the seed germinates. Rhizobacteria fixes beneficial bacteria to rhizomes of legumes to assist in the breakdown of plant residues and convert them to humus for plant growth. An increase in this organic matter maximizes the soils ability to retain moisture, reducing run-off of moisture and fertilizers due to erosion by wind and water. Rhizobacteria naturally exists in the soil, but not in sufficient amounts to maximize nitrogen fixation.

    If you are planting your first cover crop, we suggest planting a seed mixture specially formulated for the specific season (spring or fall), such as our GREEN MANURE mix, consisting of Bell Beans, Austrain Field Peas and Common Vetch.

    If possible, test the soil prior to planting to determine whether it is deficient in any specific nutrients. A cover crop can then be selected which can address the deficiencies.

    Ideally, crops should be rotated after each season, allowing for a fall/winter cover crop between plantings.
     
     
    Perennials for Fall Planting
     
    Fall is an excellent time to plant perennials. The warm weather gives roots time to establish before cold sets in. Perennials are easy to plant, require little care during the winter, and are good filler for bare patches in the landscape. When spring arrives, you will have a jump on garden tasks, as some of the work will already be done.

    There are many species of hardy perennials which will over-winter well in Shasta County. The following list is a selection of plants available at Wyntour Gardens:

    Aster frikartii ‘Monch’. Daisylike lavender-blue flowers; plants 3 feet tall. Sun.

    Coreopsis. Daisylike flowers in yellow, orange, maroon, or red. Full sun.

    Delphinium (D. elatum). Tall spires of flowers, mostly in shades of blue; some strains have flowers in shades of raspberry rose and lilac to deep violet. Giant Pacific hybrids can reach 8 feet tall; Flue Fountains grow 2 to 2 1/2 feet tall. All need rich, porous soil. Sun.

    Diascia. Low-growing plants with coral, pink, or lavender flowers. Full sun to partial shade.

    Erigeron karvinskianus (Santa Barbara daisy). Spreading evergreen perennial ground cover grows 1 foot tall by 4 to 6 feet across. White or pinkish daisy flowers appear all year in mild climates. Reseeds. Sun or light shade.

    Gaillardia grandiflora (Blanket flower). Daisylike flowers in shades of red and yellow with orange or maroon bands. Sun.

    Guara lindheimeri. Spikes of white or pink blossoms that last for many months. Full sun.

    Lavender. Beautiful shrubby perennials with spikes of bloom in shades of purple to sky blue. French lavender (Lavandula dentata) is an upright, rounded, evergreen shrub 2 to 3 feet tall with highly fragrant lavender flowers. Spanish lavender (L. stoechas) grows 1 1/2 to 3 feet tall and bears showy purple blooms in early summer. English lavender (L. angustifolia) is the classic fragrant lavender used to make potpourris and perfumes; plants grow to 4 feet tall. All lavenders need loose, fast-draining soil.

    Nemesia fruticans. Vanilla-scented lavender and pink or white flowers on a bushy evergreen plant; frows to 1 foot tall. (Zones 16-24 - does it grow here?)

    Nepeta faassenii     (Catmint). Spikes of lavender-blue flowers on mounding plants with gray-green foliage. Sun.

    Penstemon (P. gloxinioides). Bush, upright perennial 2 to 3 feet tall with red tubular flowers along the stems. ‘Apple Blossom’ (pink), ‘Firebird’ (red), and ‘Midnight’ (purple) are particularly long-blooming varieties. Sun.

    Phygelius (Cape fuchsia). Shrubby perennial with drooping, fuchsialike flowers in pink, red, or pale yellow; to 4 feet tall. Sun or light shade.

    Salvia. Many kinds. Autumn sage (Salvia greggii), a bushy evergreen shrub to 3 feet tall, bears small flowers in many colors, from white and yellow to orange and lipstick red (depending on variety), late spring to fall. Sun

    Scabiosa ‘Butterfly Blue’ and ‘Pink Mist’). Lacy-looking, 1-inch-wide blue or pink flowers. Blooms much of the year in mild climates. Full sun.

    Scaevola aemula. Low-sprawling plants produce masses of lavender-blue flowers. Full sun.

    Verbena. Mostly ground cover plants that thrive in heat. ‘Homestead Purple’ grows up to 18 inches tall and has large (2-inch) purple flower heads. Varieties of V. peruviana come in pink, purple, red, and white, and stay 3 inches tall. Sun.

    Achillea (Yarrow). Finely cut green or gray leaves; flowers borne in flattish clusters.
    A. millefolium grows to 3 feet tall and bears white flowers; hybrids have flowers that range from red and rose to cream. A. filipendulina (4 to 5 feet tall) has flowers in shades of yellow. Sun.

     
    Amending Clay Soil with Gypsum
     
    by Rikki Nelson
       
    Clay soil is easily identified because it is hard! It is so tightly compacted that little oxygen is able to get through the soil particles. Water is able to soak through, nutrients are available to the roots, but there is no oxygen which is critically needed for plants to survive. Gypsum is the most basic soil amendment for the clay soils of Shasta County.

    Compacted soils can cause numerous problems besides stunted growth or death of large plants and trees. Moss and algae may appear. Results of compacted/clay soils usually show within six months to one year after planting.

    The soil particles need to be separated to allow for free flow of oxygen, nutrients and water. Gypsum does this.

    Good soil provides plant roots with aeration as well as retention of water and nutrients. Folks tend to forget the importance of oxygen in the three necessities of healthy root growth - water, nutrients, and oxygen. In root growth, keep in mind the root tip needs to be able to move through the soil looking for water and oxygen. Small hairs on the roots absorb the nutrients.

    What does gypsum do?

    Gypsum is calcium phosphate. When added to the soil, gypsum helps to break up the soil particles allowing movement of particles stuck together, allowing air and water to penetrate and reach those deep roots looking for oxygen or air, water and nutrients.

    It is best to cultivate the soil as deeply as possible before adding gypsum, then add the gypsum in the proportions specified on the package, and cultivate again, mixing it in as thoroughly as possible. Water thoroughly before planting. It is best to wait at least 24 hours before planting to give the gypsum time to work. You will find that in a short time your soil is much more friable (breaks apart easily, rather than sticking together), and is easier to handle. Gypsum can be added to the soil any time planting is done.

    Think of the hole you are digging for your new plant as a pot without a hole, with no where for the roots to go once they reach the edge of the pot. This is why it is important to dig the hole two to three times as deep and wide as the root ball. Remember to add some gypsum at the bottom of the hole, to open up the soil so the roots can penetrate the hard clay. Then add a mixture of 50% existing soil mixed with 50% good planting mix around the root ball to fill the hole. Be sure to water thoroughly, making sure the entire root ball is completely saturated.

    We have several excellent gypsum products available at the nursery.
     
    Why and When to Use Dormant Sprays
     
    Most deciduous plants undergo a period when their growth process greatly slows down. For many plants, this coincides with the onset of winter, as days grow shorter, and temperatures grow colder. You can recognize when the plant is dormant, by the leaves falling from the trees or shrubs.

    This is the time to apply dormant sprays to fruit trees and roses, to help control various forms of fungus and disease (including black spot, peach leaf curl and many blights), and insects such aphids, whitefly, spider mites, scale and mealybug, which can devastate your plants when the weather grows warmer. The chemicals in the dormant sprays will not affect the fruit at this time, since the sap is barely flowing through the trees.

    For pest control, fruit trees should be sprayed with Dormant Oil once each year, during December. Master Nursery Pest Fighter Year-Round Spray Oil, Lilly Miller Superior Type Spray Oil, Monterey Saf-T-Side, and Neem Oil are a sampling of the Dormant Oils we recommend for your deciduous plants.

    For disease, it is most effective to spray Fruit Trees and Roses three times: Thanksgiving, Christmas and Valentine’s Day. Copper Sulfate products are recommended for fruit trees, and Lime Sulfur is best for fruit trees. Lilly Miller Polysul Dormant Spray, Lilly Miller Microcop Fungicide (comes with container of Sta-Stuk “M” for better adherence) and Monterey Liqui-Cop are all effective products for disease control.

    There are also products that enhance Dormant Spray application. Spray Grip helps spray adhere to branches. Signal is a colorant to be mixed with sprays so you can see where it has been applied.

    In addition to the products mentioned above, Wyntour Gardens carries a wide selection of other products to benefit the overall health of your plants, as well as to address specific problems. Our staff are extremely knowledgeable, and are happy to answer your questions regarding amendments and overall gardening products. Also, refer to the George’s Almanac section of this website for more information and specific Fall gardening suggestions.
     
    Poison Oak
    (Rhus diversiloba and Rhus toxicodendron    )
     
    One of the most widespread and troublesome of all pest plants, this woody perennial inflicts a high toll of suffering every year, especially during the summer months. Rhus diversiloba is a shrub or sometimes a vine climbing to about 8 feet high. It is native from British Columbia to California. Rhus Toxicodendron is a low shrub, native from New Jersey to Tennessee and southern Missouri and southwards to Mississippi and Florida. Poison ivy (Rhus radicans) and Poison sumac (Rhus vernix) are closely related to poison oak, and are equally toxic and nasty.

    The leaves of poison oak are divided into three distinct leaflets, either elliptical or oval in shape. Green leaves turn brilliant orange to red in the fall. In May and June, clusters of greenish flowers bloom from the centers of the leaves. The flowers are followed by round, green to tan fruit containing seeds. New plants sprout from the seeds as well as from creeping, underground stems.

    Poison oak prefers dry areas with poor, sandy soil. It is frequently found in wooded lots, along roadways, in yards and non-crop areas.

    Poison oak is known for the irritating rash caused by the oily sap found in all parts of the plant. The greatest irritations occur in the spring when the sap is flowing freely. However, rashes can develop if the plant is contacted at any time of the year. Irritations develop after direct contact with the plant, by contact with contaminated clothing, tools, pet hair, or smoke from burning plants.

    Contact causes inflammation and swelling of the skin, followed by intense irritation, itching and blisters. Often the skin breaks, the liquid escapes, and scabs or crusts form. Symptoms may appear from 12 to 24 hours after contact, although it varies from a few hours to several days. Some persons are apparently more susceptible than others, and in serious cases, medical attention is advised. Also, contact with the plant at different times of the year may result in varying degrees of infection and skin irritation.

    CONTROL: Do not hand-pull or burn poison oak plants. Any pieces of root left behind will sprout into new plants. The oil also remains potent on clothing for up to two years. When burned, the oil vaporizes and the smoke causes skin, eye, and lung irritations.

    Herbicides are the safest way to rid an area of poison oak. We have found the following products to be most effective: Monterey Brush Buster, Lily Miller Blackberry & Brush Killer and Bayer All-in-One Weed Killer.

    In large areas, poison oak can be controlled by mowing close to the ground in midsummer followed by plowing or harrowing, or by grazing sheep or goats. For smaller patches, the roots may be dug out, taking extreme care not to let the plant come in contact with skin. Wearing long sleeves and leather or vinyl gauntlet gloves (available at Wyntour Gardens) are essential for such a project. Smothering the roots under heavy black plastic or cardboard can also be effective, especially in areas where it is difficult to mow, such as under trees.

    Place dead plants in plastic bags and tie securely. Discard bags, gloves, and any other products and clothing which may have come in contact with the plants. Soaking affected clothing in water with a small amount of ammonia is useful in removing the oil from the fabric.

    If contact with poison oak is known or suspected, immediate lathering with a strong alkali soap (Lava) with frequent rinsing can prevent inflammation and blistering. The alkali soup emulsifies the oil and, by thorough rinsing, this may remove the oil from the skin.
    Applying a drying agent such as rubbing alcohol or a solution of baking soda and water are also effective measures.

    Several over-the-counter products are available, should you happen to contact poison oak.
     
    SCARECROWS - Guardians of the Crops
    Scarecrows are an ancient art form. They have been used for more than 3,000 years, in cultures all over the world, scaring the birds away from crops to insure a complete harvest. Native American tribes throughout North America used scarecrows or human bird scarers to protect their crops.

    Scarecrows were extremely popular in fields and Victory Gardens across America during the Great Depression of the 1930’s. After WWII, when farming became big business and chemical sprays were used on a large scale, scarecrows became less used.

    Yet Scarecrows really work! It’s important to put scarecrows out as soon as crops are planted, to keep the birds from eating the newly planted seeds.

    Scarecrows also celebrate the beauty and tranquility of fall and add charm and whimsy to yard and garden. They can be serious, scary and downright funny. They tend to look like people, yet cats and large, scary birds are also popular. Scarecrows can be made of many different materials, though are mostly made of clothing stuffed with straw. Often the faces are made from pumpkins or gourds.

    In the late 1800’s, Zuni children in the American Southwest has contests to see who could make the most unusual scarecrow. Today, Scarecrow Contests remain a popular activity in communities across the US.

    Other things to use to keep birds away are: inflatable scarecrows, shiny streamers (these work great for grapes), old CD’s hanging on fishing line, motion activated sprinklers (for larger animals), bird netting, flags, cans on strings, noisemakers.

    This is the fourth year Wyntour Gardens has hosted a scarecrow contest. We received many creative entries from individuals and schools around the County. Here is a list of the winners and photos of some of the scarecrows.
    Wyntour Gardens' 2004 Scarecrow Contest Winners
    Children - Individual Category
    1st Prize: Fred Will Shoot made by: Hunter Spade, Redding
    2nd Prize: Jacko the Contractor made by: Nicole Peletta, Redding
    3rd Prize: Cowabunga made by: Travis Uncapher, Redding
           
    Children - Group Category
    1st Prize: Masked Man made by: Whitmore Elementary, Grades 3-4-5
    2nd Prize: Popeye made by: Whitmore Elementary, 8th Grade
    3rd Prize: Scratchedy Pete made by: Whitmore Elementary, 7th Grade
           
    Adult Category
    1st Prize: Dr. Livingstone made by: Shari Skalland,
    Montgomery Creek
    2nd Prize: Alligator Hat made by: Sandy Stewart
    Australian Hat Outlet
           
    Honorable Mention

    The Alta Mesa School Garden Club
    Morgan Keaton
    Marshall Spade
    Erin Uncapher
    Whitmore Elementary K-1 & 6th Grade


    Winter

    Our Bare-Root Season Has Begun
    You can buy a lot of things bare-root, from fruit to vegetables, vines and flowers. If you are looking to purchase one of these plants, all you see at your local garden center is a bunch of dormant twigs, don’t be fooled. By spring, if properly planted, these seemingly plain branches will be covered with leaf buds and heavenly scented blooms such as Wisteria or Lilac.

    There are many reasons to take this leap of faith from bare root to blossom. Bare-root plants have many advantages over plants in containers:
    • Bare-root plants cost an average of 10 to 40 percent less than plants in containers. This can really add up if you envision a home orchard or a rose garden. Our roses arrive bare root and are promptly planted into 5-gallon containers. If a customer wishes to purchase their roses “bare root”, they may remove them from the pot and save $2.00 off the retail price. Once the root hairs begin to sprout and the roses are no longer dormant, we no longer allow roses to be removed from the pots.

      Note: The rose must be taken out of the pot here at the nursery in order to receive the discount.

    • A larger selection of varieties is available with bare-root plants. For instance, if you have your heart set on a specialty multiple-grafted tree, such as a Fruit Salad tree with four different types of fruit, a three or four-in-one fruit tree combination, it is to your advantage to buy bare root and purchase it early in the season, because bare root fruit trees are very popular and sell out quickly.
    • You also have more choices of the type of root stock your plants are grafted onto, in case you have a special situation, such as wet soil, or height or size limitation.
    • Bare-root plants usually establish themselves more quickly than plants in containers, or balled and burlap. Plants in containers can be root bound or under developed. The machinery used by wholesale nurseries to harvest bare root trees dig bigger and deeper than ball and burlap harvesters. For fruit trees, two to three feet of growth can be expected the first year.
    • Planting trees, vines, and vegetables while they are dormant eliminates transplant shock (which retards growth), and bare root plants haven’t been spoiled by rich potting soils.

      Our bare root trees will be pruned at the time of purchase, and come with our bare-root guarantee, which is valid for one year, as long as you follow our simple instructions on the planting and care of your bare-root purchases. Beware, once you plant bare root fruit trees, shade trees, vine and flowering shrubs you may find yourself hooked.

     
    Designing for Winter Interest
    Planning your landscape for year round color and interest can be a challenge. One of the ways to accomplish this design feat more easily is to use plants with three or four season interest. There are many varieties of trees which fall into this category, with branches forming dramatic stark or weeping patterns; abd textured bark often flaking or peeling, adding dramatic color against a winter sky.

    Malus ‘Prairefire’ is a wonderful Crabapple with purple new foliage, clear red-pink flowers and small dark red fruit that hangs on well after the leaves drop in autumn. Harry Lauders Walking Stick (Corylus avellana “Contora”) is small tree famous for its gnarled and twisted branches, used all year long in flower arrangements. The leaves of Harry Lauder’s Walking Stick turn golden yellow in fall then drop to reveal its contorted unusual form.

    Hawthorns crataegus are graceful street trees with multi-season interest. English Hawthorn C. laevigata ‘Paul’s Scarlet’ is covered in clusters of double red flowers which turn to vivid red berries fall and winter. ‘Carriere’ Hawthorn has open branches, toothed leaves that turn red in fall and big orange red berries in winter.

    Evergreen conifers are winter landscape classic. Spruces, pines and junipers can spread good cheer all year long with their classic upright or pendulum and contorted shapes, some with variegated or unusual green color. Dwarf varieties are becoming more available, offering a fit for any landscape. Cedrus deodara 'Snow Sprite' is a dwarf, weeping cedar with icy green-blue needles. Dwarf Norway Spruce (Picea abies ‘Pumila’) has interesting blue-green needles on dense branches.

    Many shrubs offer an abundance of seasonal display with flowers, berries, interesting bark and branch structure. Firethorn (Pyracantha) has glossy oval leaves and small fragrant flowers that turn to orange-red berries that last from fall through Christmas. Crape Myrtles (Lagerstroemia) offer a variety of blooming colors through the summer, then drop their leaves to reveal attractive trunks with exfoliating bark. Heavenly Bamboo (Nandina) has cane-like branches and fine-textured foliage that turns purple or crimson in winter, many bearing white or red berries.

    With a good backbone of trees and shrubs with multi-season interest, you may find that ornamental grasses or grass-like plants will help provide color and drama in both masses and as accents. These cultivars thrive when most perennials become skeletons. Japanese sweet flag (Acorus) has grassy leaves which smell sweet when crushed. There are different varieties for different uses from ground cover to containers to around ponds. Variegated sweet flag has vertical yellow-white stripes. Blue Oat Grass Helictotrichon (Avena) semperrivrens is a cool season true grass with clumps of blue foliage. Its flowers bloom early, starting bluish white and dry to a golden wheat color. ‘Karl Foerster’ Feather Reed Grass, calamagrostis acutifloia ‘stricta’ was named Perennial Plant of the Year in 2001. It is a versatile, attractive, and a low maintenance grass with loose feathery flowers that last into winter.


    Some plants are so special they will carry their own in the garden for their winter display alone. Many Camellias bloom in the winter. 'Yuletide' has single, glowing red flowers with prominent yellow stamens for a blaze of holiday color. The classic evergreen Hollies, (Ilex) are a diverse group of holiday classics that range in size from 6- inches to 70-feet-tall. Leaves may be a rich glossy green, or variegated. Berries can be red, orange, yellow, or black.

    Don’t forget winter annuals such as Snapdragons, pansies, violas, cyclamen and primula, to add instant beauty in a wide variety of situations. Winter vegetables such as kale, cabbage, Swiss card and lettuce will offer both color and flavor to your winter garden. Fortunately the winter climate here in Northern California offers an occasional sunny afternoon to get out of the house and add a treasure or two to our gardens when the ground is nice and soft. Here at Wyntour Gardens we have an abundance of interesting plants from trees to annuals, all in their winter glory.
     
    Recommended Products for Fruit Tree & Rose Care
    When using any recommended product, it is extremely important
    to read and follow the directions carefully.

    Products for Planting:
    Master Nursery Master Start -or- E.B. Stone Organics Sure Start
    Master Nursery Eureka Planting Mix
    Paydirt and Bumper Crop
    (Note: These are soil amendments, and must be mixed with existing soil.)
    Gypsum
    (Breaks up clay soil. Comes in granular, palletized and powder forms.)
    Stakes/Ties: V.I.T. Products Hose & Wire Supports

    For Fertilizing Established Plants:
    Master Nursery Fruit Tree & Vine food –or- E.B. Stone Organics Citrus and Fruit Tree Food
    (be sure to follow directions carefully)
    Master Nursery Rose & Flower Food –or- E.B. Stone Organics Rose & Flower Food
    Master Nursery Bud & Bloom
    (water soluble for foliar feeding)

    For Pruning Established Trees:
    Felco Bypass Pruners and Pruning Saws
    Corona Bypass Pruners
    Diamond-lap Sharpeners
    For sterilizing pruning shears: Alcohol, peroxide or bleach, diluted in water 50%/50%
    For sealing large cuts: Doc Farwell’s Seal & Heal
    To prevent sunburn: Frazee Tree Trunk Paint

    For All Gardening Chores:
    Master Nursery Nitrile Grip ATLAS Gloves
    Master Nursery Master Grip Therma Fit ATLAS Gloves
    (Insulated model. These gloves are great for cold weather!)

    Especially for Pruning Roses:
    American Beauty Leather Gauntlet Gloves
    (These gloves are the finest quality available. Own a pair, you will never need another!)
    Boss THORNgard-Plus vinyl Gauntlet Gloves with leather palms
    (More reasonably priced, and still work darn well.)

    Recommended Publications:
    Sunset Western Garden Book
    How to Prune Fruit Trees
    by Sanford Martin
    Bareroot Fruit, Nut & Shade Trees
    from the Dave Wilson Nursery
     
    Instructions for Planting Bare Root Trees
    New bare root trees should be planted as soon as they are brought home, though they can be ‘healed in’ in a shallow trench filled with soil or sawdust for up to two weeks. Be sure to soak its roots for one hour or more (no longer than 24 hours) in a bucket of water or a solution of SUPERthrive and water before planting.

    When planting new bare root trees, dig a hole twice as large than the root mass and no deeper than it was in the growing field. This is indicated by the dirt line on the trunk. Mix the native soil removed from the hole with 50% Master Nursery Eureka Planting Mix or Master Nursery Pay Dirt. Fertilize with a high-phosphorus fertilizer such as Master Nursery Master Start to get the root system growing.

    Make a mound of soil/fertilizer mixture in the bottom of the planting hole. Place the tree in the hole, with the cut section of the graft area facing to the northeast, for additional protection against sunburn and insect infestation. Fan out the roots around the top of the mound.

    Refill the hole with one-half of the soil mixture. Water thoroughly with a water/SUPERthrive or B1 solution and let is soak in. Add the rest of the soil, making sure the roots are covered. Remember to mulch well, but keep the mulch at least six inches from the base of the tree to prevent crown rot.

    Paint the trunk of the tree, up to the first branch, with Doc Farwell’s Seal & Heal, white latex paint or other tree trunk paint to prevent sunburn and protect the trunk from disease and insects.

    The roots of bare-root fruit trees have usually been trimmed by the grower or nursery before it is purchased. The branches of newly planted (1-year old) bare root trees purchased at Wyntour Gardens or the Red Bluff Garden Center most likely have already been pruned, and no further pruning is necessary until next January.

    Check water needs often, making sure the entire root system stays damp, but being careful to not over-water. Proper watering during the entire first year is extremely important to the future health of your tree. Hand watering during the first summer may be necessary, especially in the hot northern California summers.

    During the second year of your new tree’s growth, attend a FREE fruit-tree pruning class at Wyntour Gardens or the Red Bluff Garden Center to learn the correct pruning techniques for healthy trees and delicious fruit.
    What In The World Is A Pluot?
    A Pluot is a complex cross of 75% plum and 25% apricot. The Pluot was developed along with the Aprium (75% apricot and 25% plum) by Zaiger Genetics from Modesto, California which has registered a trademark. This complicated hybridizing requires several generations of crosses to create this new fruit. Pluots have mainly a plum parentage and smooth skins like plums. They have a unique, sweet, flavor due to the fruit’s high sugar content.

    We are offering several varieties including; Dapple Dandy, a creamy white and red-fleshed freestone with wonderful plum-apricot flavor, Flavor King, which has spicy bouquet and flavor. Flavor Queen has a pleasing candy like sweetness, and Flavor Supreme a sweet, full flavored, red flesh. If you can’t make up your mind we carry 4 ‘n 1 and 3 ‘n 1 trees that will grow three or four different varieties of Pluot on the same tree. These multiple-graft trees offer an excellent way to taste the many delicious Pluot varieties, and are a fantastic way for people who have limited yard space to grow fruit trees.
    Coming this Summer -
    PLUOT TASTING & ORCHARDING SEMINAR
    Perhaps you have purchased Pluots in the grocery store, only to be disappointed by their lack of flavor. We are offering interested folks a rare opportunity to taste the best of the best this August 20th, when Ed Laivo from the Dave Wilson Nursery will come to Wyntour Gardens and the Red Bluff Garden Center for a PLUOT TASTING! Ed will bring a selection of tree-ripened Pluots, picked at their point of perfection, and customers will be able to sample these delicious fruits. Ed will also be giving a talk on High Density Orcharding.

    If you currently have an orchard, or are planning on planting one, this opportunity to glean information from one of the best growers in the industry should not be missed. The schedule is as follows:
    PLUOT TASTING AND HIGH DENSITY ORCHARDING SEMINAR
    Saturday, August 20, 2005

    10:00 am at Wyntour Gardens

    1:00 pm at the Red Bluff Garden Center

    Interested in attending? Contact Wyntour Gardens at 530-365-2256 to let us know of your interest. We will contact you in early summer to remind you of the event, and to take reservations at that time.
     
    Roses Offer Special Expression for February
    Victorians expressed their emotions with delicate messages of flowers and color. You too can use roses to share a message that will bring pleasure in long lasting abundance to your Valentine, and in your garden all year long.

    Here is some inspiration for your own special message.
    Color Meaning Rose Varieties
    Red Admiration Lasting Love
      Betrothal Lover's Lane
      Deep pure love Loves Promise
      Passion Rouge Royal
      Fascination Red Eden
      Victory Olympiad
      Harmony Double Delight (red blend)
      Joy Stairway to Heaven
      Charm Mr. Lincoln
         
    Cherry Red Merriment  
      Sweetness  
      Good works  
         
    Coral Good Fortune Tropicana
      Longevity Tuscan Sun
      Beauty Countess Celeste
      Admiration of
    Accomplishments     		Coral Meidiland
         
    Cream Richness Iceberg
      Perfection French Lace
         
    Lavender Rarity Angel Face
      Dignity Heirloom
         
    White Unity Home and Family
      Silence Crystalline
      Respect Whisper
      Democracy Honor
         
    Yellow Friendship Easy Going
      Distinction Radiant perfume
      Fascination Mellow Yellow
     
    Are you inspired? We have many color variations so you can create your own blend of emotion in your rose garden. The red and white Scentimental would be a great expression of love and unity. Roses are sold bare root (while they remain dormant) or in 5-gallon containers. We carry over 200 varieties of roses, including Hybrid Teas, Grandifloras, Floribundas, Antique, Shrub, and Climbing Roses. For more information, pick up our handouts on Roses the next time you visit the nursery.
    Ideas for Winter Gardening
     
    The colder winter months are an ideal time to plan and undertake larger landscaping and construction projects. When working outdoors in winter, it’s a good idea to do jobs that make it possible to keep warm, rather than static tasks where intricate finger work is required. It is also easier to see what you are doing when there are less leaves on the plants and more open space in the ground.

    When pruning, be sure pruning shears and saws are sharp and clean. Take care to clean pruning implements (with alcohol or bleach) between each cut, especially if pruning diseased plants.
     

    Winter is a great time to improve the soil. Especially with clay soils, cultivate to enable the frost action to break down the soil lumps into smaller particles without damaging the soil structure.
    (Also refer to articles about Cover Crops and Composting in this section.)

    Have your soil analyzed by a certified laboratory to determine nutrient needs. We recommend the services of Monarch Laboratory, Inc. in Chico, CA. They will be happy to send you their price list and soil sample requirements.
     
    Protect any vulnerable plants from frost and wind-chill damage. Wrap plants with N-SULATE Frost Cloth or construct protective shelters; tie-down loose growth on climbers and wall shrubs; move container plants to warmer, more protected locations and insulate the roots of container plants by wrapping containers in plastic. Using twinkly lights to wrap frost-sensitive plants (especially citrus) will raise the temperature around the plant by several degrees.

    Check ponds and water gardens for any leaks and perform necessary repairs. Do not allow water in ponds to freeze for more than 4-5 days - leave a block of wood or a plastic ball in the pond to prevent a sheet of ice from forming.

    Be careful not to trod on frozen grass, as the cells within the grass leaves are full of ice rather than sap, and any contact with the grass will damage the cells, leaving the grass brown and withered once it has dried out.

    Chameleon Plants for Winter Color
     
    While most people think that brilliant color in the garden is reserved for the warmer months, many evergreen plants that actually metamorphosize when the weather turns cold - green leaves become brilliant red, soft pink, bright yellow and golden bronze; stems of other plants turn red, and are often not noticed until the leaves drop. Planting some of these “chameleon plants” in your garden can change a drab winter garden into a brilliant, eye-catching landscape.

    Acer palmatum ‘Sango Kaku’ (Coral Bark Japanese Maple). A vigorous, upright, tree-like deciduous Japanese Maple with yellow fall foliage. The branches turn a striking coral red in winter.

    Cornus stolonifera (Redtwig Dogwood). Grown for its brilliant red fall foliage and winter twigs, Redtwig Dogwood should be cut back severely late in the dormant season. Native to moist places, Redtwig Dogwood needs sufficient water. Grows rapidly to form a large miltistemmed shrub 7 - 9 feet high, spreading to 12 feet or wider by creeping underground stems and rooting branches. Planted as a screen along a property line, Redtwig Dogwood rapidly becomes a focal point in the winter garden.

    Euonymus fortunei. An evergreen shrub, E. fortunei is considered one of the best broad-leafed evergreens where temperatures drop below zero degrees F. In summer, the leaves are rich deep green, 1 to 1 1/2 inches long, with scallop-toothed edges. The following varieties transform into especially dramatic winter foliage:

    *   
    		 E. ‘Emerald Gaiety’ - Grows to 4-5 feet high, 3 feet wide. Dense-growing erect shrub with deep green leaves edged in white. Leaves turn a variety of reds, oranges and purples in winter.
    *   
    		 E. ‘Emerald n Gold’ - Similar to ‘Emerald Gaiety’. Dark green leaves with gold edges, Gold turns brilliant bronze in winter, and the undersides of the leaves turn red.
    *   
    		 E. ‘Ivory Jade’ - Grows to 3 feet high, 6 feet wide. Green leaves with creamy white leaf margins in summer, white edges turn pink in cold weather.

    Juniperus horizontalis ‘Wiltonii’ (Blue Carpet or Blue Rug Juniper). A very flat, low-growing ground-cover juniper, growing only 4-6 inches high, and reaching a width of 6-8 feet. The foliage is intensely silver-blue during the summer, yet becomes light burgundy in the winter. Excellent as an edging around a bed.

    Junipers grow easily in most types of soil, with moderate water requirements, as long as drainage is sufficient. In warmer climates (like Redding), they prefer partial shade, yet can withstand full sun in cooler areas. Very little trimming is needed.

    Mahonia aquifolium (Oregon Grape). The state flower of Oregon, this easy to grow evergreen shrub with spiny edged, holly-like dark green leaves looks good all year. Yellow flowers are borne in dense, rounded to spikelike clusters which are followed by blue or blue-black berrylike fruit which makes good jelly. The leaves turn purplish or bronze in winter, especially in cold weather and when grown in full sun.

    Nandina domestica (Heavenly Bamboo). Native to China and Japan, nandina is reminiscent of bamboo in its lightly branched, canelike stems and delicate, fine-textured, lacy-looking foliage. Pinkish to creamy white blossoms appear in spring, followed by shiny red berries if plants are grouped.

    There are many varieties of nandina, with different colored foliage. All are known for their winter metamorphosis, and this will vary within the species depending upon the unique situation of each plant.. Light, water, type of soil and placement within the garden will all impact the final result. Most take on purple and bronze tints in fall, often turning fiery crimson in winter.

    - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

    The above list is a sampling of the many plants that transform into winter splendor. The cold weather months are an excellent time to visit nurseries, as this is when you can see plants at their winter best. There’s no need to worry about rain - we have umbrellas for your shopping convenience.
    Spring

    Get Yourself Ready for Springtime Gardening
      by Keri Bither-Barnes, DC, DACBN, Shasta Family Chiropractic, Anderson
        & Sherry Rosen, Marketing Director, Wyntour Gardens Nursery, Redding
         
     As winter draws to an end, the days get longer and the smell of spring is in the air. Folks begin to look around the yard and dream about summer barbeques, friends and fun. They look closer at the yard, notice that the weeds have taken over, and there is an overwhelming feeling of despair at the work in front of them. 
     
    That first sunny Saturday you enter the weed zone armed with gloves, shovels, and rakes. you bend, stretch, stoop, and reach all weekend hoping to make a dent in the mess. Sunday night you go to bed with a sense of achievement. On Monday morning, you reach for the snooze button, and realize that you can't move. Your back is throbbing, your arms hurt, and your legs can't hold you up. What happened? You felt great while you were gardening - a little out of shape, but great.  You never dreamed you'd hurt like this.
     
    Dr. Keri Barnes, chiropractor and board eligible neurologist in Anderson, hears this same scenario every spring from weekend gardening warriors. They come in hunched over and wincing in pain. They receive their treatment, and leave the office relieved, spouting how they will “never do it again". They promise to take proper precautions next year. The next sunny weekend they return to the yard, and then Monday morning comes bringing the same memorable aches and pains. They come back to the office, hurting once again.

    Let's break the cycle.  Although “Gardener’s Back” is great business for chiropractors, they hate to see people in pain. Here are some simple tips on training for the “sport” of gardening.
     
    As in any sport, train before the big day. Two to four weeks before the season, begin an exercise program to prepare your muscles.  Focus on exercises that target strengthening thigh, butt, back and abdominal muscles.  Stretch before, after, and during gardening.  Five minutes of stretching, can save you a couple of days in pain.

    Use proper body mechanics while working in the garden. Bend and lift from the knees and upper legs, holding heavy objects close to the body and keeping the back as straight as possible. Use tools like wheelbarrows when moving objects.
     
    Invest in ergonomic tools.  Wyntour Gardens Nursery in Redding offers several ergonomic hand-held gardening tools including trowels, cultivators, and pruning sheers with handles designed for a more comfortable grip. Felco’s new swivel handled pruners are preferred by many people who spend a lot of time pruning. Wyntour Gardens also carries Bond ratchet pruners which are beneficial for those with carpal tunnel, by adding strength to the closing action of the tool.

    Use a circle hoe for weeding and a long handled water wand to reduce the amount of bending. Water soluble systemic fertilizers, such as Bayer All in One Rose Care, can be watered into the soil, again reducing the amount of bending.

    Keep fruit trees pruned to a low canopy, so the fruit can be harvested without a ladder. This is a helpful tip for folks with balance issues.
     
    Get your spine healthy before you challenge it. Visit your chiropractor before gardening. Studies show this type of maintenance saves pain and money. You need far fewer chiropractic adjustments to prevent an injury than the amount of visits it takes to fix one.
     
    Dr. Keri Bither-Barnes , Board Certified Chiropractic Neurologist, of Shasta Family Chiropractic, is a graduate of Life Chiropractic College West and the Carrick Institute of Neurology. Her Anderson office offers treatment of balance disorders, chronic pain, neuropathies, movement disorders, low back and neck pain, as well as offering wellness and preventative care.

    Wyntour Gardens Nursery in Redding wants the gardening community to have a beautiful gardening experience. In addition to the huge selection of gorgeous plants they carry, their ever-increasing line of ergonomic tools and products will hopefully add to the enjoyment.
     
    Hopefully these tips find you in time to save you the usual discomfort, and inspire you take care of your body during the coming gardening season. 

    The Benefits of Plant Diversity
     
    If you are aiming for a healthy garden you should consider using a wide variety of plants. By mimicking nature, growing an array plants that provide nectar at different times, and flowers and foliage of different shapes and sizes, you invite a diversity of creatures into your garden and establish natural pest control. A garden with varied structural complexity in all plant types including, flowers, vegetables, trees, shrubs, and ground covers will encourage beneficial fungi and bacteria which have the ability to attack and control more destructive diseases and discourage overgrowth of detrimental plants and diseases.

    A diverse garden is easy to design. You can look to nature or to your neighbors for ideas. A varied garden will open the door to underutilized plants. Our environment benefits by preservation of wild flowers and other natives. Most of all you will enjoy your garden more with a rich pallet of color and texture. You will expand your garden experience and learn more. Here is a partial list of underutilized plants we recommend for our area:

    Salvia Clevelandii Allen Chickering ( is a hybrid of a California native, Sage. Salvia Clevelandii is a shrub that grows 3-5 feet high with blue-purple spikes of bloom throughout the summer. It is drought tolerant and likes full sun.

    Andromeda polifolia (Bog Rosemary) is a low evergreen shrub growing to 3 feet that has pink curled flowers that resemble tiny snails in spring. It prefers acidic soil and moderate water. Though it is not related to Rosemary, Andromeda(s needle like leaves strongly resemble rosemary, but are fatter and a richer green. Bog rosemary is threatened in the state of Connecticut.

    Viburnum plicatum mariesii (Doublefile Viburnum) is an ornamental shrub that grows to 8' tall to 10' wide. In spring it has white blooms along each side of the stem in double file. Viburnum likes sun to partial shade in evenly moist soil.

    Westringia fruticosa 'Smokey' (Coast Rosemary) is a gray-green shrub with petite needle-like leaves edged in cream. Small white flowers bloom year-round. Westringia is a hardy plant and good for coastal areas. Westringia grows 4’-6’ tall, spreading 5’-10’ wide. Westringia is drought tolerant.

    Chamaecyparis pisifera 'Sungold' (False Cypress) is a conifer with weeping, golden, thread-like branches that grows in a loose mound to 5' high and 8' wide. False Cypress needs full sun or part shade and protection from the wind. Ensure that it has good drainage and water regularly.


    Pittosporum tenuifolium Silver Sheen is a large shrub or small tree with uniform grey leaves that contrast beautifully with its slender black twigs. Silver Sheen has a fine texture that can be sheared into a neat hedge or left to grow into a moderately open small tree. Silver Sheen likes sun to light shade and moderate to occasional water once established.

    Chamaecyparis lawsoniana 'Ellwoodii' (Oregon Cedar) is an upright evergreen shrub with thin blue green branches, that grows 6 to 10 feet tall. Oregon Cedar is used for its decorative dense evergreen foliage. “Ellwoodii” requires full sun to part shade and moderate water.





    Osmanthus heterophyllus Goshiki     ( is a compact evergreen mounding shrub that grows 5' high and 4' wide. It(s new foliage is pinkish bronze maturing to a mixture of green, gold, and pink areas. It likes part shade and moist, well drained soil.

    Eriobotrya japonica 'Coppertone' (Loquat) is a rapidly-growing evergreen tree that can reach 25' to 30' in height in the shade but is frequently seen 15' tall with a 15' to 25' spread in a sunny location. The 10" to 12" long leaves are rusty-colored beneath and have a coarse texture. Fragrant clusters of pale pink flowers are produced in fall, followed by the delicious, brightly colored, winter fruit.

    Sarcococca ruscifolia (Sweet Box) is a slow growing evergreen shrub to 3' to 5'. It has small white fragrant flowers followed by red fruit. It needs shade and regular water. If Sarcococa ruscifolia is grown against the wall it will form a natural espalier.
    CONTAIN YOUR SPRINGTIME ENTHUSIASM
    WITH CONTAINER PLANTINGS
    Container plantings are a simple and beautiful way to add colorful accents to your garden. Containers elevate the garden and provide us closer access. It’s easier to catch signs of pests and prevention is simplified with a smaller amount of plant material and exposed soil surface. Potting soils come sterilized, which will hinder weeds and prevent problems with soil borne diseases that can remain in the ground for many years. The time saved with soil preparation can be spent deciding what flowers you really want to plant and how many vegetables you can realistically use.

    Containers are portable, giving the option to experiment with textures and color, showcasing a succession of plants as they bloom. The mobility of containers offers extreme control over a plants’ environment, which allows an opportunity for planting finicky or frost tender species. Planting in containers can open the door to specialized gardening, such as tuberosus begonia or bonsai.

    Wyntour Gardens has the largest selection of glazed containers in the North Bay, featuring a huge variety of sizes, styles, and colors. In addition, our potting bench is available for use by our customers. Just let us know that you wish to plant a container, or replant an existing plant. We will provide guidance in selecting the best combination of plants for your container, give you some pointers for successful planting, or just offer moral support and a trowel. In addition, the soil’s on us! Come in and pick out a pot and some plants, and create instant beauty for your garden, or as a special gift for a friend.

    Ways to Use Container Plantings:

    - Change the visual appearance of an area and to create outdoor rooms
    - Brighten up entry ways
    - Create focal points
    - Place under trees (like oaks) or in other places where it is difficult or impossible to grow in the ground
    - In groupings to hide unsightly areas
    - To create instant color and focal points in new homes with un-landscaped yards
    - Transfer your existing plants into containers to take with you when moving

    Container plantings are comprised of the following components:

    - Dot Plant. This is the tallest plant, usually placed in the center
    - Filler plants
    - Edge plants
    - Trailing plants. Can be filler or edge plants. Climbing plants, such as clematis, can be used unsupported as trailing plants.

    Where to Begin:

    - First select Dot (central) Plant or the container. If Dot Plant is selected first, you should then decide whether it will be alone in the container or in a grouping
    - Make sure all plants have the same exposure and water requirements.
    - In shady areas, use light colored pots, selecting foliage and flowers for contrast.
    - Be imaginative. Use vibrant colors in plants and containers to compliment existing plantings, landscape and house colors.

    General Types of Containers:

    - Standard Jar Shape: Lend themselves well to general plantings, Mediterranean and Oriental styles.
    - Shallow Bowls: Great for plants with small root structures, especially sedum, cacti, Bonsai and annuals.

    Wyntour Gardens' Staff Recommended Potting Method:

    - For best results, use Master Nursery Professional Potting Soil or other top quality potting soil
    - Make sure all containers have drainage holes
    - Use P4 polymer granules for improved water retention
    - Pot Feet raise containers off the ground. This improves air circulation, discourages sowbugs and protects patios and decks from staining and mildew.
    - Plant Mover platforms on wheels keep large, heavy plantings off the ground and are useful for moving the plants. These are especially useful with frost-sensitive plants such as citrus, which need to be moved to a protected location during the winter.
    - Large containers can be partially filled with Styrofoam peanuts (not corn based, as these will decompose), empty milk or soda jugs and/or uncrushed aluminum cans to take up space at the bottom and provide good drainage.

    Container plantings make great gifts, and can be customized for any holiday or special occasion with a few ribbons and decorations. They are easy, fun and very beautiful.
    Planting Vegetables
     
    By Linda McGunagle
    As a flower lover, I had no respect for annual vegetables until I grew a few in my garden last summer. Thinking of them as strictly annuals I was amazed at the bang I got for my dollar. They provided both flowers and edible fruit. The tomatoes grew and produced all summer long and the peppers lasted well into the fall. Cucumbers covered my chain link fence and provided healthy summertime snacks for my family. The taste of a fresh picked melon on a hot August afternoon was heaven. I was hooked.

    Here at Wyntour Gardens we have a lot to offer the vegetable gardener. By the end of beginning of April our annual tables will be overflowing with vegetable seedlings. Our knowledgeable staff can guide you through the many plants and varieties. Here is some information on our most popular vegetables to get you started. Handouts are available with vegetable planting suggestions and descriptions of tomato and pepper varieties.

    Understanding Tomatoes
    Heirloom tomatoes must be in cultivation for at least 50 years. Some have been around for hundreds of years such as Yellow Pear tomato which has been cultivated since before 1805. Heirloom tomatoes must be able to reproduce themselves from seed as opposed to hybrids which don’t grow true from their own seed.

    Hybrid tomatoes will not grow from seeds to be exactly like the parent plant. Some hubrids have been bred for disease resistance and this will be noted by initials in variety name or on the label. Here is an explanation of these initials.

    V= Verticillium resistance. Verticillium wilt results from infection by a fungus that invades and plugs the water conducting tissues in the roots and stems of plants.

    F= Fusarium resistance. Fusarium wilt, like Verticillium wilt results from infection by a fungus that invades and plugs the water conducting tissues in the roots and stems of plants.

    N=Nematodes. Nematodes live in the soil and feed on either the inside or outside of plant roots. Nematode damage limits the ability of the root system to supply the aboveground plant parts with water and nutrients, causing the plant to wilt, discolor, and sometimes die.

    T=Tobacco mosaic virus. Mosaic viruses cause the foliage to become molted or streaked. There are no chemical cures for viruses.

    A=Alternaria stem canker. Cankers are caused by fungi and bacteria that infect the soft tissue just under the bark. As the virus spreads, the tissues darken and die, which closes off the water and nutrient conducting vessels.

    S=Stempphylium grey leaf spot. Leaf spotting fungi spore are blown or splashed on healthy leaves, and a spot forms where spores infect a leaf. Leaf spots are most severe in mild, wet weather.

    Often a tomato variety will list a number of days. This show how many days to harvest from the day you plant it in your garden.

    Indeterminate, often written as (In.) means a sprawling tomato plant that grows 6’-20’ and continues to produce fruit until cold weather.

    Determinate (D) is bushy plant that grows 18”- to 5’. They are best for containers. Their fruit is produced all at once, which makes them the better choice for cooking and preserving.

    The tomato variety Husky is an exception to the rule, and is the first indeterminate plant that is compact. Husky is a great tasting tomato, perfect in pots or small spaces. Husky produces fruit until frost.
    Peppers
    Peppers are fun and easy to grow because they are relatively pest free. Peppers are a tender, warm-season vegetable, so don’t plant them outside until after the last day of frost (April 15th in Zone 9). Pepper plants require higher temperatures, grow more slowly and are smaller than most tomato plants.

    Peppers prefer well-amended soil made up of organic matter, supplemented with a balanced fertilizer. Place in an area that will receive the most sun and plant 18 inches apart with rows 3 feet apart. Many varieties will bear heavily, so it is a good idea to use a small tomato cage or stake for support. Once the nighttime temperatures consistently stay above 50 degrees, plant seedlings where they will receive the most sun, 18 inches apart.

    Peppers like well-drained soil with moderate moisture. Use a starter fertilizer such as Master Nursery Master Start when transplanting into the ground. Supplemental fertilizers can be used after the first flush of peppers is set. Protect pepper plants from hot dry winds.

    When peppers are mature, they break easily from the plant, but peppers can be harvested at any size. Using a sharp knife to remove the fruit will prevent damage to their stems. It may be wise to wear gloves and take care not to rub your eyes; the oils can get into sensitive tissue and burn.
    Cucumbers

    Cucumbers, either for pickling or slicing, have become one of the most popular home garden crops. Cucumbers are a subtropical crop, requiring long, hot days, plenty of sunshine, and warm nights. Cucumbers will not take frost so do not plant them outside until after the last frost date, which in Zone 9 is April 15th.

    Cucumbers like plenty of water and loose, well draining soil. Mulch will help retain moisture. Prior to planting, you should add a complete fertilizer, such as Master Nursery 5-10-10 Tomato and Vegetable Fertilizer. Cucumber seedlings can be planted in hills with 2 to 3 plants per hill, spaced at 4 to 5 feet apart. They can also be planted 2 to 3 feet apart, with rows 5 to 6 feet apart. Cucumbers can also be grown in containers, or up strong trellises.

    Cucumbers can be picked on the basis of size and are ready for harvest 50 to 70 days from planting. Harvest by cutting the stem ¼ inch above the fruit, taking care not to break the brittle vines. As they grow beyond perfect ripeness, cucumbers will turn yellow and become bitter. The growing fruit takes a lot of the plant’s energy, so cucumbers should be picked often to ensure productivity.
    Melons

    Melons grow on vines and are native to the tropics. They need 3 to 4 months of hot days and warm nights, and should not be planted outside until April 15th, the last frost date. Melons need plenty of moisture to grow. Melons need nutrient-rich soil, well draining soil. Pick the sunniest spot to plant melons. Melons grow best when soil temperatures are 70°-85°.
    They are large vines and they need a lot of room. Plant seedlings 16 inches apart on small mounds. If you are planting melons in rows plant them in a zigzag pattern and keep rows 36 inches apart. If garden space is at a premium look for a bush variety or grow your melon vine on a strong trellis.

    It takes some practice to know when melons are ripe. Look at the part of the melon on the ground, if it is gold, or yellow, the melon is ripe and ready to harvest. If the melon is detached or is easy to pull from the vine, it is ripe. The fruits will ripen about the same time so if one fruit is ripe, chances are the rest of the fruit is ready for harvest as well. Most ripe melons should come off the vine with no resistance at all.

    Citrus
    Citrus are highly ornamental sub-tropical plants which include oranges, lemons, limes, grapefruit, pummelo & citron.
    Citrus appear in recorded history for many centuries.
  • They were used as medicinals in ancient India and in the Persian empire
    		•
  • They were pampered in the orangeries of Louis XIV at Versailles, not for the fruit, but to use the fragrant flowers at his banquets.
    		•
  • Citrus was introduced into the New World by Christopher Columbus
    		•
  • Rind of bergamot (Citrus bergamia) continues to be used to make eau de cologne, and is an important ingredient in many other perfume products.
    		•
     
    Some Facts About Growing Citrus
  • Citrus generally do better in warm climates.
    		•
  • Citrus are usually evergreen.
    		•
  • Citrus have sweetly scented flowers.
    		•
  • Most citrus are thorny. Perhaps the thorns developed to protect the fruits from animal predators.
    		•
  • Citrus do not like freezing temperatures - protect plants (especially young plants) from frost.
    		•

    - Select the warmest microclimate in your yard. Avoid low lying areas and cold pockets. Citrus are often planted on slopes.
    - For maximum heat, plant on southern or western sides of the house.
    - Soil will insulate roots against cold. Even if the top of the plant is killed, new shoots may sprout from the roots the following spring. If new growth appears at the graft or below, remove this new growth.
    - To encourage fall hardiness, avoid feeding tender plants with nitrogen fertilizers from mid- to late summer. Do not encourage new growth at this time.
    - Wrap tiny twinkle lights around trees to raise the temperature.
    - Build a frame with frost cloth - do not allow frost cloth to touch the leaves.
    - 55 degrees F is the lowest temperature at which growth takes place for most citrus.
    - Optimum temperature range for growth of oranges is 70 - 90 degrees
  • Spring is a good time to plant citrus.
  • Citrus need good drainage and rich soil, but can grow in all types of soil conditions.
    		•
  • Citrus like lots of water.
    		•
  • Keep in a sunny location.
  • Paint trunks with white paint to prevent sunburn.
    		•
  • Citrus do well in greenhouses.
    		•
  • Dwarf varieties do well in containers, especially Meyer Lemons.
    		•
  • Grapefruit requires long, hot growing seasons to reach peak quality and sweetness
    		•
  • Lemons have lowest heat requirements
    		•
  • Cut suckers and water sprouts. Leaves are larger and look different, branches grow straight  up and are fat.
    		•
  • Thin fruit if too heavy on the limb. Pruning will help strengthen the limbs.
    		•
  • Grafted trees usually begin bearing fruit within 1-2 years.
  • Seedlings often have unpredictable fruit quality.
    		•
  • Most varieties are self-fruitful.
    		•
  • Keep area beneath the trees weed free.
    		•
  • Fertilize with citrus fertilizer in early spring, early summer, early autumn. Reduce nitrogen in autumn.
    		•
    In addition to having delicious fruit, citrus trees are extremely rewarding for the home gardener and appealing in the landscape, for the following reasons:
     
  • Citrus have large, bold leaves
    		•
     
  • Citrus bear brightly colored fruit in a variety of colors
    		•
     
  • Citrus trees can be used in the landscape to create a tropical ambiance
    		•
     
  • Citrus can be pruned and espaliered
    		•
     
  • There is much variation in the size of citrus plants, from small shrubs (dwarf Meyer lemon)  to large trees (grapefruit).
    		•
     
  • There is also much variation in the size of fruits, from very small (kumquat) to very large (pummelo).
    		•
    Sub-tropical plants are tropical plants which can be grown outdoors in mild winter areas of the United States.
    In order to successfully grow citrus, it is important to understand their native climate.
     
    • no distinct seasons
     
    • abundant rainfall
     
    • high humidity
     
    • warm temperatures throughout the year
    Common Problems
    Yellow / Pale green leaves that eventually fall off may indicate a nitrogen deficiency.
    Fruit drop is caused by inconsistent watering or nitrogen deficienty.
    Aphids & scales are common. Watch carefully, especially beginning in May. Ladybugs and many products on the market will control insects.
     
    Spring Flowering Trees and Shrubs
    * Denotes California native
    Almond Prunus dulcis
    Azalea Rhododendron
    Banks Roses Yellow and white
    Beauty Bush Kolkwitzia amabilis
    Breath of Heaven Coleonema
    Bridal Veil Broom Genista monosperma
    Broom Cytisus
    Carolina Jessamine Gelsemium
    Clematis Clematis
    * Daphne Daphne
    Deutzia Deutzia
    * Dogwood Cornus
    Double Delight Nectarine P. p. nucipersica
    Double Jewel Peach Prunus persica
    Euryops Euryops
    * Flannel Bush Fremontodendron
    Flowering Crabapple Malus
    Flowering Peach Prunus persica
    Flowering Pear Pyrus communis
    Flowering Quince Chaenomeles
    Forsythia Forsythia
    Honeysuckle Lonicera
    Japanese Snowball Viburnum plicatum
    Jasmine Jasminum
    Lilac Syringa
    Purple Leaf Flw. Plum Prunus
    Potato Vine Solanum
    Primrose Jasmine J. primulinum
    * Red Bud Cercis
    Rhaphiolepis Rhaphiolepis
    Rhododendron Rhododendron
    Saucer Magnolia Magnolia soulangeana
    (Tulip Tree)
    Spiraea Spiraea
    Tea Tree Leptospermum
    Trumpetvine, Lavender Clytostoma
    Weigela Weigela
    Wild Lilac Ceanothus
    Wisteria Wisteria
     
    Soil Testing
     
    There are many products available for testing your soil. You can test for Ph alone, for Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potash and even for moisture and light. Ask our Nursery staff to show you our selection.

    For optimum gardening success, have your soil analyzed by a certified laboratory to determine nutrient needs. We recommend the services of Monarch Laboratory, Inc. in Chico, CA. They will be glad to send you their price list and soil sample requirements.

    Monarch Laboratory
    (530) 343-5818
    www.monarchlaboratory.com
     
     
    Yarrow Speeds Compost Decomposition
     
    Achillea millefolium (Yarrow/Milfoil) has many wonderful properties. Yarrow’s root secretions will activate the disease resistance of nearby plants, and it is known to intensify the medicinal actions of other herbs. It’s medicinal and cosmetic properties are numerous and can be found in a variety of herb books. The decorative flower heads come in many colors and hold their color when dried, making Yarrow an excellent plant for use in wreaths and dried flower arrangements.

    Perhaps the most interesting attribute of yarrow is its ability to speed decomposition in raw compost. According to Lesley Bremness, author of The Complete Book of Herbs, “one small leaf (of yarrow) will speed decomposition of a wheelbarrow full of raw compost.”
     
    A Simple Decoy to keep Birds away from your tomatoes
     
    Fool birds by hanging red Christmas tree balls amongst your tomatoes.
    One peck at the decoys and the birds will leave the real tomatoes alone for a while.

    ( We haven’t tried this yet, but it sure sounds like an interesting idea.... )
     
     
    National Wildlife Week
     
    Begun in 1938 by the National Wildlife Federation (NWF), this celebratory week encourages children and adults to learn and experience nature, starting in their own communities. Gardens can provide the perfect environment to provide sustenance for most of the wildlife frequenting our backyards. According to the NWF, wildlife have four basic habitat requirements:

    Food. Flowers, shrubs and trees provide seeds, berries, leaves, buds and nectar, all of which feed birds, butterflies and other insects, and small mammals. Native plants are preferred by wildlife and require less care.

    Water. A small pond or birdbath provides a home for fish and drink for birds. Ponds attract other animals, such as frogs and salamanders, and birdbaths placed low to the ground will draw squirrels, chipmunks and other small mammals.

    Shelter. Shrubs and trees offer homes for birds and food for deer. Tall grasses are home to grasshoppers, garter snakes and some ground-nesting birds.

    Places to Raise Young. Butterflies require special plants for laying their eggs, frogs and toads lay eggs only in shallow water. Birds nest in birdhouses as well as shrubs and trees.

    Our staff can help you select plants and other products to make
    your garden more wildlife friendly.
    The Most Attractive Nectar Plants for Attracting Butterflies and Moths
    Butterfly Bush Buddleia davidii
    Globe Amaranth Gomphrena globosa
    Brazilian Verbena Verbena bonariensis
    Marigolds Tagetes species
    Oregano (Wild Marjoram) Origanum vulgare
    White Clover Trifolium repens
    Lantana Lantana camara
    Salvia “Blue Bedder” (Texas Violet) Salvia faranacea
    Zinnia Zinnia species
    Garlic Chives (Chinese Chives) Allium tuberosum
    Red Clover Trifolium pratense
    Privet (Common Privet) Ligustrum vulgare
    Heliotrope “Marine” (Common Heliotrope) Heliotropium arborescens
    Bloodflower Asclepias curassavica
    Mexican Sunflower Tithonia rotundifolia
    Sedum (Autumn Joy) Sedum spectabile
    Common Sage Salvia officinalis
    Cosmos “Sensation” Cosmos species
    Glossy Abelia Abelia grandiflora
    Oriental Lily Lilium speciosum
    Verbena Verbena tenera
    Ground Ivy Glechoma hederacea
    Mint Mentha species
    Dame’s Rocket Hesperis matronalis
    Common Dandelion Taraxacum officinale
    Lavender Lavandula species
    Catnip Nepeta cataria
    Common Tansy Tanacetum vulgare
    Creeping Wood Sorrel Oxalis corniculata
    Daylily Hemerocallis hybrida
    Red Giant Mustard Brassica juncea var. rugusa
       
    Other Native Nectar Plants for Attracting Butterflies and Moths
    Late-flowering Boneset Eupatorium serotinum
    Mistflower (Wild Ageratum) Eupatorium coelestinum
    Indian Hemp (Dogbane)  
    New England Aster Aster novae-angliae
    Common Milkweed Asclepias syriaca
    Heath Aster Aster pilosus
    Purple Coneflower Echinacea purpurea
    Black-eyed Susan Rudbeckia hirta
    Great Blue Lobelia (Blue Cardinal Flower) Lobelia siphilitica
    Joe-Pye Weed Eupatorium purpureum
    Blazing Star (Gayfeather) Liatris spicata
    Sweet Pepperbush (Summersweet) Clethra alnifolia
    Butterfly Weed Asclepias tuberosa
    New York Ironweed Vernonia noveboracensis
    Daisy Fleabane Erigeron annuus
    Smooth Aster Aster laevis
    Small White Aster Aster vimineus
    Wild Bergamot Monarda fistulosa
    Swamp Milkweed Asclepias incarnata
    Stiff Goldenrod Solidago rigida
    Wild Blue Phlox (Sweet William) Phlox divaricata
       
    For Specific Types of Butterflies:
    * To attract swallowtails, plant Butterfly Bush, Common Milkweed, Joe-Pye Weed (Eupatorium purpureum), Oregano, and Oriental Lilies.
    * To attract hairstreaks, try Garlic Chives (Allium tuberosum), Dogbane (Apocynum cannabinum), Heath Aster and Late-flowering Boneset.
    * For skippers, plant Globe Amaranth, Brazilian Verbena, Butterfly Bush and Mist Flower.
    * Plants that caterpillars eat: Common Lambsquarters (Chenopodium album), milkweeds, asters, parsley, clover, and Common Blue Violets (Viola papilionacea).
       

    Plant a Flower Clock
     

    In 1748, Swedish botanist Carolus Linnaeus planted the flower clock he developed.
    Want to try it? The following is a list of popular plants whose blossoms open and close at specific hours. Plant the flowers in order around the outside of a circle and when they bloom you have a flower clock.
    5:00 - 6:00 am Morning Glories and Wild Roses
    7:00 - 8:00 am Dandelions
    8:00 - 9:00 am African Daisies
    9:00 - 10:00 am Gentians
    10:00 - 11:00 am California Poppies
    Noon Goatsbeard opens, Morning Glories close
    4:00 pm Four O’clocks open
    4:00 - 5:00 pm California Poppies close
    6:00 pm Evening Primroses and Moonflowers open
    8:00 - 9:00 pm Daylilies and Dandelions close
    9:00 - 10:00 pm Flowering Tobacco opens
    10:00 pm - 2:00 am Night-Blooming Cereus opens
       
       
    Don’t be Slimed by Snails and Slugs
    Due to the long, wet spring season, snails and slugs have been especially rampant this year, grazing their way through multitudes of broad-leafed plants throughout the garden. They especially enjoy Hostas, but are very happy feasting on any plants with nice, cool foliage and succulent leaves to munch.

    There are many products to help control these voracious garden destroyers. Products we have found to be most effective include:

    Sluggo ®
              Kills snails & slugs. Use on fruit, vegetables, berries, ornamentals, lawns, and in greenhouses. Safe to use around pets & wildlife.

    Seven-5 ®
              Kills over 65 insects, including Japanese beetles, cabbage worms, ticks and ants. Use on vegetables, fruit trees, ornamentals, and lawns. Safe to use as flea and tick repellent on pets and wildlife.

    Pest Fighter ®
              Snail, slug & insect meal. Kills snails, slugs, ants, earwigs, grasshoppers, crickets, sowbugs, cutworms, armyworms, and millipedes. Remains effective after rain or sprinkling. Master Nursery product.

    Quick-Kill Mosquito Bits ® and Mosquito Dunks ®
              Biological mosquito controls that kill mosquito larvae within 24 hours. Active ingredient: Bacillus thuringiensis. Place in any standing water, including water gardens.

    With all insecticides, it is extremely important to follow manufacturers directions carefully.

     

    Organic Methods:
    It is also possible to lower the population of snails, slug and other destructive critters without the use of chemicals, though this involves more diligence on the part of the gardener. Of course, one can always spend time collecting snails in the dark, but the following list of products and ideas may be helpful in eliminating plant-eating animals:

    Cocoa Mulch ™
                An organic fertilizer and soil conditioner made from cocoa bean hulls. Its crunchy texture deters slugs, snails and most cats. As a top dressing, Cocoa Mulch is easy to spread, light to handle, retains moisture and suppresses weeds. When mixed into the soil, Cocoa Mulch  breaks up heavy clay soils and adds humus to light sandy soils.


    Diatomaceous Earth
                Finely ground natural fossil shells. Act as a repellent for snails, slugs and other creatures, as they are reluctant to cross the powder. In addition, the unique soil conditioning properties of  Diatomaceous Earth’s aid in loosening soil and absorb up to two and a half times its weight in water for better soil moisture retention.

    Snail & Slug Copper Barrier Tape
                A non-invasive product, this inch-wide copper tape has a natural electric charge which  repels snails and slugs. For trees, planters, patio furniture, pet dishes, raised flower and garden beds. Copper Barrier Tape comes with adhesive backing to adhere to tree trunks  and edging