Light shade is the brightest shade and supports the requirements of the most plants. Light shade areas are the easiest to design and work with. Light shade is the dappled shade you will find under a tree canopy and allows for 4-6 hours of sunlight, preferably with afternoon shade. Many sun-loving plants will take light shade in our area. (See Regional Considerations below).

Part shade occurs when you have a 4-6 hour interruption from direct sun. Plants that do well in light shade or part shade include Astilbe, Fox Glove, and Hydrangea.

Full shade is a garden area that receives no direct sun. Full shade may be created by a dense, canopy of trees or by buildings, such as the north side of your house. Plants that do well in full shade include Foam Flower, Impatiens, and Japanese aucuba.

Just as soon as you get your microclimates all figured out, the exposure changes with the seasons. Full sun in summer changes to medium shade in spring and fall. Trees grow older and denser, intensifying the shade they provide. It is important to remain flexible. Plant bulbs that will bloom in spring before the trees leaf out overhead. Light summer pruning on maturing shade trees will lighten the garden beneath.

When making your decision on what kind of container to use there are some factors you should consider. A small, one gallon container will hold one special plant. A ten to twenty gallon container can support a whole ecosystem. If you would like to add fish, your container should hold at least ten gallons of water and be at least twelve inches deep. Some containers need liners, epoxy, or special sealers to fill holes, or protect against chemical reactions, such as a leaching of tannic acid. You may wish to add a spouting ornament, or a small waterfall, for the relaxing effect of running water. A small submersible pump which would move 60-90 gallons per hour (GPH) would be sufficient for this feature. Miniature underwater lights are also available for use with or without a pump.

Different water plants have different preferences for planting depth. Research the needs of the plants you are using. If your water container is deep, you may need shelves to bring the crowns of the plants to the proper level. Bricks work well, especially cinderblocks which have hollow cores that will prevent loss of water volume. You can also use overturned pots or flat rocks. You may even find floating pots at specialty nurseries.

Once you have selected and prepared your container, you should choose the site before you construct your garden. Because water weighs eight pounds per gallon, your garden will be hard to move once assembled. Do not put the container garden directly on a deck. Raise your container up on pot feet or bricks, creating space under the pot so condensation and leakage won’t ruin surfaces. Most aquatic plants need four to six hours of sun each day. Here in the North Valley, it is best to provide your garden with afternoon shade to keep the water from getting too warm and your plants from burning. You may also want to choose a spot where it will reflect a special area of your garden, such as a blooming plant, or a special piece of statuary.

The plants you choose for your tub garden will depend on its size and depth. Large, tall plants can unbalance a planting both visually and physically. Floating and submerged plants will do well in a container, while bog plants may be overly aggressive. Fifty to sixty percent of the water surface should be covered with plant material. Many local garden centers are now carrying aquatic plants and it is easier than ever to find the most popular plants, including water irises, floating hearts, giant pennywort and horsetail rush. Water lilies (Nymphaea), both hardy and tropical, are available in a wide range of color and sizes. Lotus (Nelumbo) is another popular floater, prized for its beauty, fragrance and interesting seed pods. It is important to use a soil specifically formulated for aquatic plants, like Schultz Aquatic Plant Soil™. Do not use standard potting soil mix meant for ground-loving plants. If your water supply is treated with chlorine, let it sit for one to two days before planting, as the chlorine will evaporate.

Once your water garden is planted, keep an eye on the water level and replace what has evaporated. Control algae by physically removing it or use a water clarifier made for aquatic gardens. Use timed-release fertilizer like Agriform® Tabs or Osmocote®, following the directions on the package. Most water plants are evergreen, and will survive the winter in above freezing temperatures, though they will become dormant when the cold weather hits. During the winter, keep plants cleaned up by removing dead leaves, in spring they will begin to grow again. Spring is the time to divide plants and make new plantings or share them with friends. There are many books and web-sites available about water gardening, and you can also consult your local garden center or aquatic garden specialist for more information.

Peonies are hardy perennial plants which bloom in May and June.

Peonies have been cultivated in gardens since the time of Pliny the Elder, the Roman naturalist who perished in the destruction of Pompeii. Peony comes from the word meaning the god of healing. History records gardeners growing many varieties in London as long ago as 1580. In 1824, Lemoine, a French gardener of scholarly reputation, made important hybrid crosses in peonies. In the US, the single white flowered peony was exhibited by the New York Horticultural Society in 1826.

There are two basic types of peonies: herbaceous and tree peonies. Herbaceous peonies have fleshy clubs of roots, with leaves and flowers sprouting out from the crowns. Herbaceous peonies die back to the ground in the fall. They are derived from the Siberian and European forms. Tree peonies are actually shrubs which produce flowers and leaves on permanent woody branches growing up to eight feet tall.

All are extremely long-lived perennial plants of significant size with spectacular, large flowers which are great for cutting. Some are wonderfully fragrant, with a fragrance similar to old-fashioned roses. Flower colors include white, cream, yellows, coral, pinks, purple, rose, reds (some very deep) and black. Flowers are singles, semi-doubles & doubles. Support large flowers with peony rings.

Peonies have a relatively short bloom period - no one kind blooms for more than one week. To extend the blooming period, plant early, mid-season and late flowering cultivars. Peonies can withstand full sun and summer heat, though light shade will prolong the flowering period in hot areas.

Herbaceous peonies can be planted in early spring or in fall. Peonies need winter chill for good springtime bloom. Plant on a northern slope & do not mulch in winter. Peonies are able to withstand summer heat, but the flowers don’t last well in warm springtime weather.
Choose early blooming varieties, provide some afternoon shade & adequate water.

Peonies require site preparation, but will return with outstandingly beautiful flowers for a lifetime. They need deep, rich soil with good drainage - the roots will quickly rot in poorly drained soil.

Consider planting peonies in raised beds. Ideally, the site should be deeply dug (12-20 inches). Work in lots of well-rotted manure or compost & high-phosphorus fertilizer.
Allow the soil to settle before planting. Give each peony three feet of space. Peonies prefer slightly alkaline soil - pH 6.0 to 7.0. Add lime to excessively acid soil.

Peonies do best when planted in Fall for Spring bloom. Avoid planting in a border facing east, as the flower buds may be damaged by the early morning sun, if it happens to shine on them after a frosty night. Borders facing south, southwest or west are best.
Peonies have fleshy roots suggesting long sweet potatoes joined together at one end.
Soak roots in water just prior to planting, to give them a good drink. Set roots carefully as planting too deep prevents flowering. Plant with rose-colored eyes facing up, two inches deep in colder climates, one inch deep in warmer regions.

Mulch is helpful in hot regions. Be sure to allow for depth of mulch when planting.
Fertilize the plants with Master Nursery brand Multi Purpose Fertilizer (16-16-16), or any multi-purpose fertilizer, after the flowering period. Peonies are unlikely to bloom the first year, but should bloom annually after that. They can be left undisturbed for many years, and will bloom satisfactorily for 20 years or more.

There is usually no need to divide herbaceous peonies, except to increase stock. Dig the clumps in early fall and hose off any soil. Divide into sections using a sharp knife, making sure each section has three to five eyes. Plant immediately so plants have time to put down roots before freezing weather. Herbaceous peonies may take 1-2 years to establish before blooming.

For cut flowers, cut just as buds begin to open. Leave at least three leaves on each stem, preserving leaf growth to nourish the plant for the following year. Remove less than half the blossoms from any clump. Deadhead to prevent seed formation. Remove seed pods if they develop.

Peonies can develop the fungal disease botrytis, especially if weather is cool and humid.
Young buds will blacken and wither, fuzzy brown spots develop on the flowers and leaves, and the stems wilt and collapse. Botrytis can be prevented by taking the following measures: